Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. MGD83

    MGD83 Senior member

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    I don't wear them either - each brand I try is always too snug or too wide or too long / short.
     
  2. SamF

    SamF Well-Known Member

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    I can never get loafers to work either, they just slip off of my left foot. Then again, I have CP on that side so that foot is not exactly great for keeping non-laced shoes on.
     
  3. MGD83

    MGD83 Senior member

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    Really I think anybody who has a low instep, or narrowish foot or heels will have a problem with loafers or laceless boots such as chelseas.
     
  4. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    I like chelsea's too much not to wear them. I usually have to put in 'tongue pads' to get them to work, but it's worth it for me. The fit doesn't feel off either which is nice. Not sure I can do the same for loafers. I've tried sizing down a half size and going to a wider shoe for loafers which works in certain lasts.
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2014
  5. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    U r teh suk.
     
  6. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    RTC, try the AE Patriot loafer, which are made for a low instep. It's a casual loafer that goes with jeans and chinos; not something you are going to wear with dressier trousers.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Those shell?
     
  8. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Yes.
     
  9. jssdc

    jssdc Senior member

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    I routinely flirt with the idea of C&J Teigns, just to see if loafers look less lame when I'm wearing them than when someone else is. (I don't yet own them because my suspicion is no)
     
  10. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    So, in my pursue of knowledge regarding jacket constructions and learning what I like/dislike/prefer, I'm starting pay attention to details I was unable to detect before. I've run into something I'm not sure exists, so thought I'll ask you gentlemen.

    The situation is the following, and I hope the owners of the SCs don't mind, otherwise I'll delete the pictures. I'm inspecting these two SC, both of which I find appealing in different ways:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Assumption #1
    My untrained eye tells me this: A) the shape of the shoulder area on SC #1 is a straight down sloping line and B) the shape of the shoulder area on SC #2 is concave.
    Q1.0: Am I making a correct assumption or is it simply a product of the person in SC #2 wearing the jacket higher up on his neck than the person in SC #1?

    Assumption #2
    Secondly, I find that the collar on SC #2 runs higher up along the trapezius muscles, hugging the the neck higher up than SC #1.
    Q2.0: Is there such thing or am I making it up?
    Q2.1 If there's such thing, is it being caused by assumption #1 or something else?
    Q2.3 Given that the answer to Q2.0 is "YES", what is it called? What should I ask for in future commission in order to achieve this shape/look?


    I'm appreciative of any help really as I'm trying to understand the difference here. I'm experiencing the same thing with some garments I own, but am not sure what's causing this. Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2014
  11. SamF

    SamF Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all the help everyone. I will try some rubbing alcohol. Nothing to lose after all.

    And no, it wasn't me who contacted you about the tie before.

    Cheers for the info regarding manafacture.
     
  12. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Are the two pictures of the same person? If not, then it's really hard to say how/why each shoulder looks like it does. Perhaps it reflects the underlying body, perhaps it's the construction. You might try the Ask A Tailor thread for actual expertise.
     
  13. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    1. Yes, that Luxire jacket has pretty straight shoulder line and the second one is pagoda (concave) 2. What you want is called a high gorge but be careful. I have an almost unwearable jacket with super high gorge. I went crazy with details and I am not too happy with it.
     
  14. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    Thanks for the quick response, sb. It's not the same person in the two pictures. But I suspect that the look doesn't reflect the body shapes of the persons. Well, at least to some extend. I can see this difference in some of my jackets also. My Sartoria Partenopea (my only one) behaves like SC #2 while all my other SCs behave like SC #1.

    The difference lies, I suspect, in the more naturally constructed shoulder of my SP and logic tells me it also might have something to do with how the collar is cut. Kind of hard to explain, but I'm wondering if it's not a product of the collar and in extension the whole lapel line at the front of the SP (or SC #2 in this case) being cut so that the distance between both sides of the collar/lapels is smaller than the distance in my other jackets rendering the collar to "hug" the body and neck to a larger extent and thus crawling up the neck. I guess I could draw a picture of what I mean later. It could also be the fact that the "collar band" is higher that is causing this "crawling up the neck"-phenomenon, no? Just guessing now.

    I guess I'll take this to the tailored thread as well. Thanks for the suggestion.
     
  15. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    My trade arrived. Good thing I can still trust people and they come thru in SF. Sleeves seem good and don't require alteration. Your thoughts on the suit?
    [​IMG]
     

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