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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    I don't mind them at all. I mainly stick with soft construction because of my drop shoulder. Elio has a nice suit with roped shoulders, it looks great.
     


  2. Stencil

    Stencil Senior member

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    Am I right in thinking that genuine roped shoulders typically have a different seam construction than spalla camicia shoulders? My impression is that spalla requires lapped seams, and that it sometimes seems roped initially just as a result of how the fullness is added, and that that roped-ness gets knocked out by gravity or deliberate pulling on the tailor's part. I'm not sure how a real roped shoulder is constructed at the sleevehead though.

    That being said, I love both, but I particularly like roped shoulders on more formal suits.
     


  3. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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  4. Stencil

    Stencil Senior member

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    Even better, some Googling has turned up a blog with a diagram of lapped shoulder construction, and an explanation of the "con rollino" effect, which appears to be present on the Formosa:

    http://www.bespokenn.com/post/5277648787/what-is-a-neapolitan-jacket

    And here's JeffreyD on the pattern and seam manipulation required to rope a shoulder:

    http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2010/05/sleeves-on-overcoat.html

    It looks to me like spalla indeed requires a special seam construction, but roping requires more involved pattern work and pressing treatment.
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2014


  5. losrockets

    losrockets Senior member

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    Noodlers, basic question: thoughts on tan (think: traditional khaki color) wool trousers? Yes/No to someone who already has an array of grays? Should I go for a light brown instead?
     


  6. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I believe the general consensus is no. Linen and cotton seems fine.
     


  7. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    I would not get worsted tan trousers. Get something with some texture or a nice donegal.
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2014


  8. Stencil

    Stencil Senior member

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    Murl is on the right track as far as wools go, I think: something tweedy, or even a light tan (i.e. fawn) flannel as an alternative to a cream, which can be kind of affected. Fresco is nice, too, for summer, though I'd like it as a suit.
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2014


  9. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Huh. Interesting.

    So they're disappearing roped shoulders.
     


  10. losrockets

    losrockets Senior member

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    Thanks all, will keep my eye out for more pants in the brown spectrum instead.
     


  11. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Noodles, congrats, you look great! This thread have served you well.

    Regarding the tan/brown trousers, I have one pair on the making, but the fabric is not plain. Don't know how to describe it but it's wool.

    [​IMG]
     


  12. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    If you think those shoulders on Noodles' suit are going to end up as completely natural shoulders, you're mistaken. They may become a bit less pronounced, but that's all.
     


  13. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    I was being facetious, but I'm still not sure why they're not considered 'truly' roped.
     


  14. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Noice doodals

    Now, don't forget the detail. Good socks, tie those shoes properly and smile that smile. Very good!
     


  15. Stencil

    Stencil Senior member

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    I'm not sure it isn't. The more I read about it, the more it seems like the con rollino style is basically just a puffy looking roped shoulder. The seams aren't lapped.
     


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