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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Is the shirt issue the color or the check pattern? What sort of shirt is better with a striped grey suit?
     
  2. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    I want to dress as well as the various photos I see of staff from the likes of Liverano, the Armory, the guys on here. Impeccable dress sense is what I want - with a touch of something perhaps a little unusual or unique (though I suspect that is something that will come in time).

    I work for myself and from home and I don't see clients. I can dress any way I like. I go out most days for lunch with friends and generally live a very social life. Most of the time I am the only person in a suit (kiwis are very casual - even at the opera). I do not object to being overdressed - I would rather that than under. When I am home alone I still dress fully in a suit. I always wear a hat when I go out - I have about 15 (boater, fedoras, panamas, homburg, bowler, etc.)

    At present my wardrobe consists of around 50-70 shirts - all high end brand. Most are single cuff but some are french. I have a pile of suits as well - various styles - some double breasted. Most grey but some navy. One very dark charcoal with gold stripes (kiton).

    I have millions of pocket squares and ties - mostly Kiton, Hober, Tom Ford, etc.

    My intention is still to dress formally in all occasions - I don't own any casual clothes - I just want to be formally dressed with excellent taste. If necessary I can post some photos of suit options I have and tie options - but I am away for the next four days on holiday so I can't do it until I return. Let me know if you think its advisable.
     
  3. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Thanks for the comment - I will get the tailor to work on the coat. You are right that I do tend to focus on the accessories. I usually pick a suit I haven't worn for a while and then try to put together the rest based on the tie or pocket square.

    I mostly dress for myself as I spend most of my time at home - but I wish to be as perfectly dressed as possible at all times - even when it is only me and my guardian angel looking :)
     
  4. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    If I may chime in: I noticed you've been posting a few fits recently that all suffer from this mixing of casual with more formal stuff.
    I'd advice you to read this old thread, which is a very valuable resource on this subject.
    Regarding the fit: I respectfully disagree with @TweedyProf : the bowing lapels and the ripples just above the button to me are telltale signs that the chest is too tight (if it was due to too much waist suppression only, you'd see an X pattern of ripples). A further indication of this are the closed quarters: you can see the pinstripes not running parallel, which indicates that the jacket is pivoting around the button.
    Then, style. Others have already commented on the PS, but I'd like to mention the shirt and suit. A check pattern like that shirt is too casual with the pinstripes, and they both suffer from fabrics that look bland. I think that suit colour in a chalk stripe flannel would look great, but in worsted it looks too boring due to the lack of textural interest. The shirts looks like it's too shy to admit that it's checked. A check of that size should be bolder IMO.
    Incidentally, I posted a somewhat similar fit a few months ago, though mine was easier to do because of higher contrast between (a solid) suit and shirt:


    [​IMG]

    P.S. I notice you are into high end brands. Nothing wrong with that per se, but a brandname is no guarantee for quality, let alone good taste....
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    On the fit of the jacket: I'd suggest you ask the guys in the tailors thread. My (unqualified) guess is that the buttoning point is too high and thus lands on your rib cage, rather than just beneath it, which makes the jacket flare on top.
     
    2 people like this.
  6. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Jfrater's style is not so egregious. He has the tools just needs to learn proper application. If the tightness in the chest can be resolved you will get good mileage with that suit by wearing a crisp plain white shirt or very pale plain blue shirts paired with white linen square or no square. You get a lot of effective looks with pinstripe suits by just keeping things simple and restrained. Experiment patterns using a navy blazer and grey pants and extrapolate from there.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Golden advice here. I'm learning too. This thread lives again.
     
  8. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    One thing that stands out to me is the blue p.s. matching the blue shirt. But if you take that out, then it's a good look.
    The shoulders look good but the pull when buttoned is noticible.
    I don't know about others but a patterned shirt with a patterned suit wud not be my first choice. I usually go solid if thr suit has patterns.
    This is a great start!
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2015
  9. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Elio you might be right but I agree with EFV. My thought was that the higher buttoning point with the suppression is cinching at the waist and that is why the lapels are bowing as well. Look at the shape of the waist to the armhole. That is an hourglass curve almost. That difference made me think that the chest is cut significantly bigger than the waist which is too tight given the rippling at button.

    Jfrater: I do think fit is more important to nail down. Since you have many accessories, pairing will be easy. Can you post a shot of you in your best fitting coat and trousers? I think for basic issues, people here can help. Taikors thread for more complicated things.

    Bowing as Elio notes is often a sign of too tight chest. The shoulders are clean.

    I've noted the sleeves. Jacket length seems ok. Those are matters of preference.

    The main issue is the chest/waist. Does it feel tight in chest or roomy? Anyway if you have a jacket that doesn't bow might be worth taking a shot. My 2 cents.
     
  10. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    @TweedyProf (and @EFV ), I may be wrong but I think the high buttoning point is a result of tightness in the chest. Try putting on a well fitting jacket and then pull the lapels apart: you will see the button creeping upwards. Then again I may be talking out of my a*** [​IMG], so better check the tailor's fit feedback thread...
     
    3 people like this.
  11. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @EliodA

    Well, we all agree on the main fit issue from the front. But your point makes a lot of sense.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    Its just not a very ideal pattern for a dress shirt with a pretty conservative suit and tie.
     
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  13. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    People hate on white dress shirts too much I think, or offwhite/cream, if you don't want it so stark.
     
  14. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Let us pause for a moment to consider a boater with a gray, pinstripe suit.

    I didn't grow up around folks wearing boaters, so I may be off-base, but that's not quite right, is it?
     
  15. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Would some of the issues in j fraters jacket be solved with a lower buttoning point?
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2015
  16. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not if Elio is right about the tightness in the chest (I assume you mean the lapel bowing). Elio's explanation seems very plausible.

    It might be that the waist is too suppressed and the chest too tight.
     
  17. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    I have no beef with white shirts when used properly.
     
  18. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    I was thinking that having the buttoning point a little lower would allow it to drape better and allow for a larger chest to be cut and allow for a more natural taper for the waist suppression.
     
  19. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    I think you are correct.
     
  20. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Are you talking about having a different jacket cut?

    On the current jacket, if the chest is too tight, changing the button point won't fix anything. If you mean having a different jacket cut, then it seems to me (but I'm not a tailor!) that the chest and waist are separate issues, i.e. you can cut within reason a chest of a certain size with different waist sizes (think of women's clothes where chest size is much more variable).

    I think the waist is overly supressed on the jacket at issue (i.e. look at the line on the side from armhole to waist). This is a matter of taste (see Suit Supply), but secondary to issues of fit here which are not matters of taste but of proper tailoring (IMO).

    But as others have said, jfrater's fit isn't a bad base line for beginning. I'd just like to see him in his best fitting coat. That's a better baseline for him.
     

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