Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    ^ Hard to tell those are corduroy from the photo. Do you recall what fabric you had it made up in?
     


  2. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Last edited: Sep 25, 2014


  3. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    ^ Thanks. They look nice. I have to say I've generally thought the $90-$100 fabrics Luxire offers in cotton have been quite good for the money, based on a pair of chinos and some of the other things I've seen. I tend to like my corduroys a bit heavier so they work better in a Chicago winter, but for milder weather I imagine that weight range works pretty well.
     


  4. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Yeah, I'm very impressed by the quality. The weight is perfect for London, it doesn't get that cold here. Ordering some light grey flannels next, but I'm doubting between the Minnis ($299), Hunt & Winterbotham ($249) and the Dugdale ($179) flannels. They all look good, but I'm not sure whether you'd really notice a big difference between the Minnis and the Dugdale.
     


  5. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    Talk to me like I am a 5 year old kid.

    I have the perception that pleated pants are for older folks. Is it not?
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2014


  6. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    The Minnis is more of a traditional woolen flannel while the Dugdale is in a twill weave that is more solid. I personally like the texture of the Minnis better, but both are good depending on what you want. The Hunt & Winterbotham seems to generally be more similar to the Minnis in terms of texture. The H&W at 12 ounces vs. 14 ounce weights for the Minnis / Dugdale may make them more attractive if you don't need the extra warmth.
     


  7. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Older people may be more likely to wear pleated trousers. They're probably more likely to wear higher rise trousers too. That said, it is wrong to say that such things are specifically for older people. I'm still a flat front fan, but I definitely would not have a negative reaction to a young person wearing pleated trousers nor an old person wearing flat fronts. The only thing that matters is what looks best on you. Pleats are a bit more forgiving, can help create a nice drape to the trouser if the rise is high enough and look better seated than flat fronts. Good fit is important for both.

    Pleats look best with a higher rise. Flat fronts can work with a low rise. I like them fine with a higher rise too, but that is a bit more controversial.
     


  8. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nah, they're coming back in a big way. Plus, when you get used to the look, they're quite aesthetically pleasing.


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2014


  9. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    A hotel maid came up to our room to clean and she started speaking to me in Chinese. I told her I was not Chinese. She told me that I sure looked like one. This is the same maid who spoke to my wife in English when I was not there. Wtf?!
     


  10. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    I'd wear those. It looks great!

    Curious what the leg opening is though!
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2014


  11. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    Hmmm...I just like a clean flat front. That's just me. My statement regarding pleated pants were just something I picked up while growing up. Good to get some clarification.

    I thut wide lapels looked old fashioned but now am loving them. Maybe I will change my views after I look into them more.
     


  12. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    I still don't like the wide lapels.
     


  13. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    When you have a sizeable behind then pleats become a necessity or flat fronts with darts.
     


  14. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Thank you, that's very helpful. I'll go for the H&B then, the weight looks good and I think I'd prefer the texture over the Dugdale.

    Yep, I've found pleats to be much more comfortable, especially when sitting down. I spend 12 hours a day in my office chair, while I walk maybe an hour, so comfort is very important. Pleats are mainly a tailoring technique to help the transition of a narrower waist to wider legs, so it's very beneficial for athletic and portly people. People often forget that trousers are a very three dimensional object, so if you think about how trousers are being made, that extra fabric for the legs/hips/seat can't come out of nowhere. Pleats also break up the lines a bit, as a high rise flat front trouser can look a bit odd at times.

    They're actually making a comeback in RTW, as I had predicted about half a year ago. I'm seeing them more and more in London, and brands such as Suitsupply are starting to make pleated trousers, and higher end brands are following as well. Won't be long before flat fronts are out of style, not that you should care about that. Wear whatever looks best on your body type.
    8.5"
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2014


  15. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    And if you don't mind offering, what's your height/weight?
     


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