Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    The way it works for this is:

    Primary application, secondary applications (school specific), wait, get interviews/rejections, go to interviews, hopefully get accepted somewhere. I've heard back from one place for an interview so far. I applied to over 40 schools. It's a bit nuts.
     


  2. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Heya. I didn't specify it as a conduit cut, and I had to look up what that means, but I suppose it's quite similar. I just told the tailor what I wanted and was quite influenced by steed stuff and some articles that in retrospect were probably conduit cut or inspired by that kind of cut.

    I think you're right about fabric, but I did want something that I can wear in hot weather because I felt like getting light cloth with quarter lining is my way to wear suits/jackets as often as possible even in hotter places. Being from the UK though I'll probably end up with mostly weightier fabrics. Haven't considered heavier fabrics with quarterlining for a "medium" weight effect though, not sure how that would work.
     


  3. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    Pants fit nicely. Pix to come.
    Jacket will be ready Tuesday!!!
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2014


  4. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Sweet. Now you know what you need. Formosa MTO program is up and running at NMWA.
     


  5. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    For realz?!!! I will check out their website!!!
     


  6. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    You are by far the bravest man in your bathroom.
     


  7. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Visited my tailor today...I'm thinking of having this made as a sport coat....maybe with the brown beneath as trousers to match. I have to admit the thought of a 3-piece suit crossed my mind too...


    Thoughts?
     


  8. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    It's hard to see the scale on that picture, but the pattern seems a bit too small for a sport coat. It might be a nitpick, but if you're going mtm/bespoke you should be able to find a more suitable pattern. A 3 piece would look great though, especially with a DB vest.
     


  9. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    That Carnet fabric book (trip across Europe) is so cool. Some of the stuff is pretty stereotypical about the various regions and the cloths they choose to illustrate them - but overall a much more enjoyable way to browse through fabrics.

    That glenplaid is a nice choice for a sport coat btw. I believe it's from the Tallia di Delfino "Brughera" book. Lovely jacketing fabrics but not suitable for trousers / suit.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2014


  10. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    Suit Supply.
    Lazio line.
    40R
    Seems like the jacket certainly fits well.
    [​IMG]
     


  11. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    You know your stuff very well....it is the Grand Tour autumn/winter by carnet and fratelli tallia di delfino...and it is an extremely fun book as they break it down by different european cities...

    There were several swatches that I wanted to made up...the one I posted was the one that caught my eye the most...but also some great brown and blue tweeds and some amazing gun checks...

    also not so cheap though...haha
     


  12. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    Heya @Isolation . I think the (man about town) Conduit cut may have evolved from the earlier (country) Huntsman cut, which has similar look (not fit). Barring the fabric variations for their respective town and country roles, of course. I think the modern London cut, is a superset or descendent of the above cuts. And, happily sir, you're in London!

    Talking with you about fabric weights reminded me of the light weight fabrics of years gone by. Specifically, circa the late eighties, when I commissioned my first bespoke lounge suit. Yeah mate, I'm that old. Anyway, yesterday's light weight fabrics are similar to today's heavy weight fabrics, believe it or not. The fabrics keep getting lighter and finer. Progress?

    As I spend half the year in tropical South East Asia, you'd think I would be pro light weight fabrics. Surprisingly, I'm not.

    Personally, I find the light weight fabrics (wool blend/worsted) "high maintenance" and not very travel friendly. Specifically, they're easy to wrinkle and require frequent pressing to look their best. Also, I wonder how long the fabrics will last before requiring replacement?

    Consequently, I recently I instructed my HK tailor that I've gone off light weight fabrics completely. I now prefer medium weight fabrics (for use in summer/tropics) to heavy weight fabrics (for use in three season/temperate). With my summer/tropical use jackets -- made from medium weight fabric -- half lined, to better ventilate heat.

    Interestingly, my HK tailor (who shall remain nameless, of course) confessed that all his own suits are made from medium weight fabric or higher -- for similar reasons to my own. So, the next time a custom cutter or tailor recommends a shiny new light weight fabric to you, you may wish to enquire as to the weight of the fabric of his own jacket. Do as they do, not as they say!

    Having said that, I do have two new lounge suit commissions -- work in progress presently -- that are being made from modern light weight fabrics. Alas, they were commissioned before I started going cold on light weight fabrics. If I could start over, then I would change the fabric specification to medium weight. Live and learn.

    JMHO. DYODD.
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2014


  13. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    It fits you. Trim silhouette. Are you buying?
     


  14. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Yes it does. Buy it. I plan on stopping by the DC store on Tuesday just to check it out.
     


  15. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    Nice. I will be headed to Georgetown on Tuesday to pick up the Formosa jacket. It should be done and ready for wear...finally.

    Murl, let us know what u think of the fbaric quality of the suits they carry.

    Yup. I think the Lazio fits the best. I will most likely get 1 or 2 from SS while I stock up on 4 additional Formosa suits.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2014


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