1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 10: A full set of Aesop's Fables pocket squares from Vanda Fine Clothing

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    The 10th auction of the year is for a full set of Aesop's Fable's pocket squares from Vanda Fine Clothing. Please bid often and generously here

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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Stylish Dinosaur

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    ^ Green and olive too
     


  2. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    I don't feel like a dimple really complicates them by too much, but then again I don't own overly busy ties so I've never tried it.
     


  3. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    Reposted. Thanks.
     


  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Both look good to me. When you ask about the angle, are you talking about the acuteness of the peak?
     


  5. kulata

    kulata Distinguished Member

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    @Isolation the almost horizontal gorge line is fine, don't mess with it and I like the width of the lapels. I think they factor the design of the lapel when cutting the pattern not sure it can be easily changed.

    Roping looks good too. How about the pants?
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2014


  6. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Shoulders and lapels look ok, but why is the jacket so badly creased? Was it shipped to you?
     


  7. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    Yeah I'm talking about the peak part.

    Pants are much better, but I'm hoping the new ones will be better as the old ones were just cut a bit narrow from the start. I shall post pictures when they are done. I'm actually pretty happy with this jacket in general. Back's much better too, imo.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I really think in general it was my stance which created a lot of the creases, as it is here, I just subconsciously stand too erect when picture is being taken. Guess it was my childhood indoctrination kicking in. Also the fabric being very thin and more prone to creasing than usual doesn't help.

    Gray jacket was at the tailor's at the time so no picture but the front looks really good I think. That said my eyes is not as discerning so I am sure you'll find some faults in it. I'd say it turned out well enough for the cost that I'm quite happy.

    Might as well add my tweed jacket from Moda:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Back looks nicer here which I think supports the theory wrt the fabric.
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2014


  8. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Distinguished Member

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    I'm not sure grey would work. Maybe really dark grey? It's a pretty dark brown jacket. Now that I think about it... I already have 3 brown jackets: a khaki, a brown flecked herringbone tweed (wearing today), and a mid brown slightly darker than the one in the picture.

    I think I'm going to go buy some shirts today at uniqlo. I just realized that I don't have any plain spread collar shirts that aren't white. I think waiting to find and thrift appropriate shirts is a fools errand. I end up finding decent stuff that fits (PRL and j crew mostly), but nothing that's 'right'.

    This is one of the three jackets I found. I had to pass on it because the wool was pilling pretty badly. It had a pretty soft hand to it. I'll take pictures of the ones I bought this weekend!

    PS: Have fun in Austin. Good luck with your lady friend. I'm going to Houston for the first time next month!
    [​IMG]
    All the pockets, aside from the one on the breast, are fake. Totally bizarre.

    [​IMG]
    Looks like the collar is hand attached.
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2014


  9. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Meant to post this here:

     


  10. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    Thanks, well spotted. We were a bit rushed with the pinning so I hope it was just mispinned for the photo and when the button is properly placed it'll be okay, but in any case I shall know to make sure when I get it tomorrow. Appreciate the help.
     


  11. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Im not sold on that making a difference.
     


  12. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    You mean ties? Yeah I think brown ties, or actually brown in general is a nice warm color that goes well with most things (doesn't clash much) and I don't feel like it has anything to do with skin color. I actually think it looks better on lighter skin people than someone whose skin matches the brown, which could look a bit weird imo (simply choosing a different shade probably solves that).

    TBH I think brown is just a nice color in general and if not for its casual connotations brown trousers would be as versatile as gray flannel. In fact for casual/country looks I think chocolate brown, beige, and tabacco are great colors for linen trousers, corduroys, and moleskin/chinos. To me they are basically the rustic version of the gray flannel which I think would be more suited on a city street or cobbled road.

    One of my favorite casual combinations is an olive/racing green trouser with a brown jacket, or the reverse, and then using a navy knit or rust wool.

    Edit: Oh I just realized you meant SC. Well, point stands.
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2014


  13. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Distinguished Member

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    I think it looks a bit strange if your clothes match your skin color. White shirt or jacket looks kinda weird on someone pale if they haven't seen the sun in a decade. I think white shirts look fine on me because they contrast with my skin.

    It's important to note that menswear was a western paradigm and the 'rules' were created and drawn up by anglos. If one is black and is wearing a dark brown jacket, then I think that would look off as well. Light brown would probably be fine (good even!).

    I think this is overlooked somewhat. I think @kulata 's color palette is probably different than say... crusty's.

    I think that's a contradiction there, no?

    Regarding the jacket, I haven't taken out my winter pants (cords etc) yet. I should grab them this weekend. It'll certainly open up the possibilities.
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2014


  14. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    Ah perhaps I misunderstood you, but I meant that brown would look good on most people who don't have that exact shade of brown, and for those people simply choosing a slightly differenet shade will be fine, which I think is what you were saying in the first part.

    Also I didn't realize you meant SC, and I do think if you have a white shirt cuff showing to separate skin from SC it is fine. I just think brown is a great color. To match a jacket with a skin color like that probably creates a bolder look though.

    This is something I noticed and tried to ask about when I read about SF's thoughts on blue vs white shirts. In general I feel like I looked better with white shirts since my skin is slightly darker, but it could be just that I never got into blue shirts much.
     


  15. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Still not sold. You need to find the right hue, but I would never dismiss an entire color range due to skin color. Thats just silly.
     


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