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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Which one did you asked for? The ones from the last orders? Looks like there's a bit of tie space, maybe it's the one from previous orders.

    I need to work with Luxire the height of the collar band at the front.
     
  2. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hard to tell with the photo angles. Generally looks good to me, though.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Thanks, Cleave. I tend to agree with your assessment that the collar is too high.

    The tie is a Sam Hober, Maclessfield silk #135, https://www.samhober.com/macclesfie...-brown-macclesfield-printed-silk-tie-135.html . I cannot say enough good things about the quality of my Hober ties and David's willingness to cutomize them to your specifications.

    I used the specs from your March 2014 post on the collar to order this one. What modifications have you requested to the collar?
     
  4. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    I like the collar.
     
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  5. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Moderator

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    Just to be clear I think it's more about the angle of your pic. It may be a smidgeon high, can't be sure, if you're a 16 collar send it to me and I'll let you know?

    Thanks for the nod about the tie :nodding:
     
  6. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    I am a 16 collar . . .

    If it is too tall, it is only 1 cm or so too tall. @Betelgeuse 's collar is very similar to another Luxire favorite, with the exception it's about 1 cm taller in the front and back, with shorter collar points. I may give that other collar a try and submit pictures of both.
     
  7. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Moderator

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    You'll look great regardless mate!

    (just take pics at collar height or from above? Personally I like a lower collar on the whole)


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    I asked them for no tie space and gave them the measurement of the collar band where the button is but they didn't nailed that measurement. I do have that problem, that they sit a bit high in the front. I asked once in the tailor thread if it could be lowered by cutting the fabric cause when I use them it forms just below the collar a small wave that could be eliminted but they said no.

    [​IMG]

    But when I put the tie and the coat it kinda lowers a bit.
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  9. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    Cleav, I have never taken a close look at your collar height. Have you tried a slightly taller one in the past? IMHO, it would look nicer and cleaner. Something about the top of a tie sitting above the collar doesn't sit right with me.
     
  10. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Moderator

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    Well, as I said i prefer a lower collar height. May be I'll give it a try, thanks man :nodding:
     
  11. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Moderator

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    Other en of the scale...


    [​IMG]
     
  12. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Why u no like high collars, Cleav?
    (Seriously, I do think it will suit you better...)
     
  13. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    ^That's not a collar, it's a neck brace.

    @Cleav do it!
     
    2 people like this.
  14. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Moderator

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    Hey, I'm in. I'll try.

    Thing is I have always preferred lower, not for any aesthetic reason, just for the fact that it's more comfortable for me. :D
     
  15. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Collar heights go up and down with fashion, as we all know. Wolfe is famous for his tall ones, but he’s also famous for having a long, thin neck. And for dressing rather flamboyantly (nothing wrong with that, of course). If you look at a full shot of Cleav that includes the head and face, you’ll see that he’s put together very differently from Wolfe.

    Those of a certain age will remember what was at one time a widely held rule-of-thumb: the same amount of cloth (“linen” was the term, to be specific) should show above the jacket collar as shows at the end of the shirt sleeve past the jacket sleeve: about ½ inch.

    It’s a personal choice with a broad range of options, and comfort certainly should be part of the equation in my opinion, along with the wearer’s head, face, and shoulder geometry.

    Just sayin’ …

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
    2 people like this.
  16. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    I agree with this. My comment was not to imply Cleav would look good in a very tall or large collar, just slightly taller given the types of ties and knots he wears. Good for Cleav to be open to at least trying it. If he doesn't like it, it will just reinforce his preference for the current collar height.
     
    2 people like this.
  17. Kira

    Kira Senior member

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    Speaking of collars,

    I have calculated the dimensions of my neck and face:

    Neck length: 5"
    Neck width: 4.5"
    Face width: 6.5"
    Face length: 8"

    Given that I'm 6'0, I remember @kulata informing that for men with a longer face and taller neck, that the collar and its points should be long and wide (spread); respectively.
     
  18. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Last edited: Dec 4, 2014
  19. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Don't like it. Top is a suit and bottom is a different suit.
     
  20. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Good deed Friday for my 2000th post

    If you are a US42 or maybe US40 and in the market for a staple grey flannel suit. Here is a Sartoria Partenopea for Maxi Ho (A store in Napoli) at a steal price, this is essentially what you pay for a nice tie. I would have snagged it if it was a US44 but oh well it may just be your lucky day if you are looking for a staple grey flannel suit.

    I own a 100% cashmere navy blazer from the store and it's made by Sartoria Partenopea. Fantastic stuff

    http://www.yoox.com/us/49139533PX/item?dept=men#sts=sr_men80&cod10=49139533PX&sizeId=5

    *Don't ask me any questions. Just order if you need it and return if it doesn't work out
     

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