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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Christopher Essex

    Christopher Essex Senior member

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    Vancouver BC
    

    I was just in the Seattle one for the first time over the weekend and tried on the wheat-colored Havana jacket and thought I fit quite well off the rack.

    How much narrower would you say the lapels are vs. Howard Yount's or B&T? I thought they were pretty close and the jacket length was about perfect for me.

    They look quite a bit shorter on the models on the website, likely because they are quite tall.

    I think the trousers are probably cut too narrowly for me and the drop for the suits is probably not enough for me.
     
  2. mdancel

    mdancel Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Rabat, Morocco
    Could I get some good natured advice on these suit fits. I'm still trying to learn what looks good on me. I'm back in the US from North Africa for a wedding so I took the opportunity to visit BB and Suit Supply.

    Do any of these Suit Jackets / SC look worthy of pursuing further? I'm working on building up my staples

    38R BB Madison
    [​IMG]

    38R BB Fitzgerald
    [​IMG]

    38R SuSu Napoli
    [​IMG]

    38R SuSu York
    [​IMG]


    Assuming 38R is my right jacket size The York and Napoli are the only SuSu supply suits I can wear without going MTM because of the pants. There is not enough material in the others for my backside and quads.

    This is not a staple but it's on sale for $200 and thought it might be worth it? Thoughts on this BB Fitzgerald SC?
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2014
  3. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Texas.
    SS fits you better than BB. Pick up the BB for 200 as long as that expense doesn't interfere with you buying staples.

    ---
    Lapel width of SS is about the same for those of Yount.
     
  4. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    mdancel, I'm willing to bet that a 39 BB will fit you better than the 38, which seems to pull at the shoulders a bit. I've had better luck buying Madison/Regent and pulling in the waist than in buying Fitzgeralds, since the cut of the Fitz is slim but boxy. Your mileage may vary.

    Suitsupply looks really good to me.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The associate who kept pestering me at the Suit Supply I visited in NYC was an attractive woman. It was not sad. But she was annoying.
     
  6. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    I like the fit of the BB SC a lot.

    I think those jackets all look a size too small imho. Agree that you could go up a size and have the waist nipped.
     
  7. mdancel

    mdancel Well-Known Member

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    Thanks @Claghorn I'm going to pass on the BB SC and stick to my plan.

    I tried the 40 at SuSu the sales associate said it was too big, in the shoulders. I'm sad I didn't take a picture to verify with you all. Not likely going to happen but I'll try to make it back to the store and get some pics with the next size up. This would give me more room to work with with pants as well in my legs.

    Any inputs on the Napoli vs The York on me? The Napoli seems to have a shorter jacket, narrower lapels, and a slightly higher button stance than the York. It seems to cover my rear and not be too harrow lapels but I don't want to fall into the trap of too short and too narrow lapels as I've been there and done that and I am in SF reform. Unfortunately with my pics its a bit hard to see the jacket length :(
     
  8. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    I think we all would like to see you go up a size. The BBs show pulls here and there and the Suit Supply suits look tight. The Napoli def looks short to me. The angle on the York is not good to judge.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2014
  9. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I would view input from the SS staff with great suspicion.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    I would ignore it entirely. I've only been to the one in DC and played dumb to see the kind of advice I got...it was terrible. Also saw a guy pick up his suit from their tailor and they pinched the waist so tight that it looked like the lapels were going to burst....sales rep said it looked good.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  11. Kira

    Kira Senior member

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    Noodlers, when you made your appointment with your tailors, did you ever have to make a deposit? I'm starting a large project, and they requested a $50 deposit (I paid because I had no other options left, competitive pricing, etc.)
     
  12. mdancel

    mdancel Well-Known Member

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    I guess I really need to make another trip to Suit Supply happen since I have access to one this week while on vacation.
    In addition to the suits I posted I also got measured for their MTM program so they would have my measurements on file for the future. From the feedback of my initial SuSu fits I won't be pulling the trigger on that for awhile as the same sales associate that fit me in the 38R did the MTM measurements.

    Here is a fit pic of the fitting suit that is a 40R if I"m not mistaken. The sales associate brought the jacket length up some, I believe .75" and brought in the waist some and then was going to use the shoulder dimensions from the 38R as they thought the shoulders were just right.

    [​IMG]

    I know it's hard to tell but any thoughts on these shoulders? Seems like 40 works for me better than 38? Any tips on how to tell the sales associate gracefully thanks for you input but I'll take the 40! :)
     
  13. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    No, but I don't see anything wrong with a $50 request if it is for a large amount of work.
     
  14. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Mdancel, you aren't doing yourself any favors with those pics. You really need clear front, back, and side shots to assess shoulder fit.
     
    3 people like this.
  15. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    I have never had to put up a deposit. What was their reasoning for such a request?
    I would have just said no thank you.
    LOL. I always get giddy when I see a SA zero in on me. I have only met one SA who knew what he was talking about. The SAs at DC Suit Supply is a joke, seems like they hired walking mannequins instead of knowledgeable salespeople.
     
  16. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    @Kira , I've been asked once to pay half in advance of the work and, in hindsight, that should have been a red flag that the work I was requesting was a waste of money. In my situation, I wanted a suit that was a size too large taken in at the shoulders, chest and waist, with the tailor charging $250 or or so for all this work. It was not a new suit and I should have just worn it as is, since I bought a new suit to replace it less than a year later.

    I suspect the tailor wants a deposit because the work is extensive and the value of the jacket is less than the cost of the work to be done. Are you sure it makes sense to engage on such a large tailoring project?
     
  17. Kira

    Kira Senior member

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    @The Noodles , I came into the shop about 20 minutes before they closed. I talked to the owners, and they requested an appointment to get measured. They don't do walk-ins. I'm having about 20 pieces done (trousers, shirts, and waistcoats combined), so I somewhat share his reasoning. To prevent this from happening again, I'm going to have them measure my feet as well (for future shoe projects). I certainly hope that they won't charge $50 for every time I schedule an appointment! This haberdashery is pretty much my only option, as their prices fit well into my budget.

    About the large tailoring project, he would rather have one of each done first--just to see if I like the fit; then do everything else.
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2014
  18. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    20 pieces?! I get it now. I was assuming just one piece. Did you just go thru a good weight loss or something? 20 piece is a lot.
     
  19. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    Oh cr@p.
    I think I might have bugs eating thru my clothes. [​IMG]
    Yesterday, I saw holes (sleeves) in my cashmere sweater.
    Today, I am seeing a hole (chest) in my wool sweater.
    I am scared to go home and check on my suits and shirts.
    Is there a way to tell the difference between a bug bite and just a tear?
     
  20. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Uh, oh, sounds like you may have moths in your closet. Get everything out and air it asap. Get yourself cedar wood hangers. You can also try to find old fashioned moth balls, but I can't stand the smell (which is the whole point of course...)
     
    2 people like this.

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