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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    One is a small shoulder bag and one is a tote. She probably needs both. Whether you like them is immaterial, I suspect.
     


  2. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    #4
     


  3. losrockets

    losrockets Senior member

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  4. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I would probably go with red brown corozo.
     


  5. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    It's fine of you don't like pleats in general, but the reasoning you're using is wrong. Your logic does not extend to denim, as pleats do need a crease.

    Having said, there's nothing wrong with pleated denim, if done well. Why would one be allowed to be comfortable in dress pants but not in denim? It's simply a change in fabric. I currently only own one pair of denim trousers, and they're pleated. I don't wear them often, as I find denim to be a less than ideal fabric. Too warm in summer and too cold in winter.

    Anyways, like I said, pleats aren't more formal or informal, and if the trousers fit well they should be closed and lie flat, meaning you'll only notice them from close up.


    BNtailor pleated denim:

    [​IMG]


    Pleated and creased denim (trousers are too slim, as it was my first ever luxire order):

    [​IMG]


    BNtailor Pleated cotton:

    [​IMG]


    My pleated linen trousers:

    [​IMG]


    Double pleated silk/linen (I really need to get light shoes for outfits like these):
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  6. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    If true navy, I'd go for coffee. If slightly lighter, then the red brown corozo.

    Incidentally, just yesterday I bought a set of (gold coloured) metal buttons. I've never worn a blazer with metal buttons before, since I've always associated it with old men's clothes. Now, I no longer feel like that. Showing my age, or too much time on SF?
     


  7. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    [​IMG]
    ...if I remember correctly, she wants some YSL tote. I will never go back to that store.
     


  8. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    @kulata, I like #1 and #3 but like #3 the most.
     


  9. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    It's true navy. Hopefully my ultimate navy jacket that will stop my incessant searches for one

    No leading consensus but now starting to narrow it down to #3 and #4
     


  10. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I've given up on my search for the ultimate navy blazer. I'm saving up now until I can bespeak one at Steed.
     


  11. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    If you don't mind care to share the specs? Steed stuff I have seen have too much waist suppression.
     


  12. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    @Monkeyface, I appreciate the detailed response and examples. I think we may be talking past each other a bit. I don't disagree with the idea that pleats don't necessarily imply formality or lack thereof. I like the pleated cotton and linen trousers in your examples. That said, I'd still be more likely to get pleats on trousers that are going to be worn in more formal situations even if pleats themselves don't affect the formality of the trouser. It may not be 100% logical and I accept that. Part of the reason may be that pleats do of course look best with trousers that sit at or above the natural waist. Jeans and more casual trousers are more likely to be worn with a lower rise, so you do not get the same benefit from pleats in these cases. Of course, if you have things made for you as many of us do, I suppose this reason goes away for the most part.

    I still think there is something that doesn't seem quite right about high rise denim. It's certainly not common (though I suppose we should be careful in using our observations about how common certain things are when discussing what is optimal). Again, it may be my own hang-up.
     


  13. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Natural, lightly padded shoulder, draped chest, wide notch lapels (probably around 4"), 3 roll 2, hip patch pockets, a bit of waist suppression, but no so much that it constricts movement or becomes uncomfortable. Probably swelled edges on the lapels, but I'm not sure about that yet. When it comes to fabric, I'm not sure yet. Probably either a butterfly lined flannel or a fully lined hopsack, making it a 3 season blazer. I could wear flannel here from mid September till mid June. Smoked MOP or navy buttons, as I'll mainly wear it with grey trousers and black shoes.
     


  14. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Senior member

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  15. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    SF hates branded stuff simply because its in your face/gauche. Ill say that I find that most items that have your face emblems/branding are poorly designed to begin with, and if not for the branding no one would want them, but there are certainly exceptions out there. And for those exceptions, I will happily wear them, despite their perhaps inherent tactlessness.

    Jot me down for #4 as well, btw.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2014


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