Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. thenitwit

    thenitwit Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    86
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2014
    Could you link me a picture or web link to what sort you are talking about and does it follow that the British variant are the stripes reversed of the US ones in direction?

    Thanks!
     
  2. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,066
    Likes Received:
    2,994
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2014
    Location:
    NY
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2014
  3. thenitwit

    thenitwit Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    86
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2014
    I forgot Repp was a weave, :S.

    I will pick up my navy tie to match the suit colour in that weave.

    Thanks for your feedback :)
     
  4. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,231
    Likes Received:
    2,236
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    

    Hober wishlist increasing in 3...2...1...forgot about some of those gems. I think I already have 4 different solid navy ties, so it's not like I need that one specifically, but I definitely see a few things that could be nice additions to the collection.
     
  5. teoky

    teoky Senior member

    Messages:
    182
    Likes Received:
    83
    Joined:
    May 6, 2014
    Location:
    Somewhere in the East
    I'm actually considering either the reppe weave or the navy diamond weave... Not sure which one to go for. Opinion?

    https://www.samhober.com/diamond-weave-silk-ties/navy-diamond-weave-silk-tie-4.html
     
  6. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

    Messages:
    9,858
    Likes Received:
    3,646
    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2013
    Location:
    Bahstan
    I know I've probably asked this before, but the AE boot MTO thing recently discussed has me thinking about a pair of navy and/or merlot boots.

    How versatile are navy boots? It almost seems like they're best suited for jeans. I do get some wear of my navy suede shoes with lots of pants in the summer, but that's in the summer...

    I know merlot is more formal/versatile, but just wondering what the extent of this is. I should probably just pick one of the two to be honest. I'm guessing grain is just totally informal, though it might stand up to the elements better and I wouldn't worry about color change if i treated it with leather protectant.

    Side note: Is dainite really slippery in the wet/snow/ice? If so, then that might be a deal breaker. Is the commando that much better? I'd buy these boots to wear out in the winter and I often walk a mile or two and it's sometimes snowy or icy out.

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2014
  7. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

    Messages:
    7,388
    Likes Received:
    4,742
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2012
    I'd say you could wear any of navy, merlot or brown grain with chinos or jeans and enjoy them. The merlot or brown grain would work with a wider variety of colours though, I think, and if you're wearing denim then they will contrast nicely. The navy I'd see working best with khakis. But so would the others. Basically the navy is the most novel, but because of that, the least versatile.

    Personally I was interested in the navy in a more formal make up - single dark sole, blind eyelets, etc, in which I think it would fly pretty well with grey flannels etc. for an interesting twist on the business casual. The current make up is casual casual, and I have a casual blue shoe already inbound.

    (I think this answers your PM too!)
     
  8. losrockets

    losrockets Senior member

    Messages:
    645
    Likes Received:
    223
    Joined:
    May 15, 2013
    @ridethecliche I don't know what you mean by grain being totally informal. I wish it had blind eyelets and then speedhooks but I still plan on wearing them in the hospital on rainy days with wool trousers, that's what I'm buying them for. They won't work under sleek worsted wool trousers with a worsted navy blazer but for more rugged business-casual days like foul weather accounts for, I think they'll do the job. Remember, you're entering the medical field - as long as you're not on rollerskates you'll be okay in most healthcare settings. If you can afford to buy two, I'd just get the cordovan ones instead. If you don't want them because of the mini lug sole, get merlot and grain options.
     
  9. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

    Messages:
    1,454
    Likes Received:
    477
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2012
    Thanks for the correction. I don't know the historic accuracy of this or that, but it seems/seemed reasonable to believe that heavier men need fuller cut pants for the sake of ease, which pleated pants are cut like. A thin flat assed man would probably fit into flat front pants, and thus wouldn't need the extra ease that is provided by pleats. It was just my reasoning though, I'm sure you know more about historic accuracy on this subject.

    I didn't say only heavy men can wear pleated pants though, I wear them and I'm an atheltic drop 8-10 build depending on maker.

    I believe you are 100 % correct about the rise, as pleated pants look much better with higher rise, which I was careful to point out to Isolation.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2014
  10. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

    Messages:
    1,953
    Likes Received:
    2,109
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2013
    Location:
    London
    Hey guys! Can anyone explain to me the advantages/disadvantages of forward vs reverse pleats? Thanks!
     
  11. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

    Messages:
    3,980
    Likes Received:
    10,748
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2013
    Location:
    Melbourne - Sydney - Shanghai
    It basically comes down to whether you like the smell of your own farts or not.
     
  12. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

    Messages:
    1,953
    Likes Received:
    2,109
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2013
    Location:
    London
    I don't get the joke. =[ Anyway I'm deciding on single reverse pleats and forward for double pleats for my partner.

    I just saw a link to some PUA style/fashion site and the articles are so ridiculous in so many ways, from the advice, the writing, the examples they use, and the horrible mindset. Good for comedy though I guess.

    I can't believe they have their entire philosophy based on the "Alpha" male concept even though the whole idea has been debunked. If you have't heard, wolves only show strict hiearchry/leaders in the traditional dominate "Alpha" sense when in captivity and under duress, and in the wild they are far more cooperative and make joint decisions... like normal animals and communities. Instead of a straight ladder, they have a vague sense of who has more power/influence, which is normal, but there's no strict fight for who is the top who dominates and subjugate others, ie the most powerful individual will work with the second most powerful individual, and only when they are threatened will they start to suppress anyone who threatens their position.
     
  13. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,082
    Likes Received:
    2,602
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2011
    RTC, I've been going through similar debate and ended up deciding I can't pick just one boot to run the gamut from jeans/casual to suits. IMO, the brown grain is perfect with jeans and chinos and can work just fine with more casual trousers and jackets. I question how the brown grain will look as you move more to the right on the formality scale. I've also been looking at a pair of burgundy shell boots and see them working great on the dressier side and just being alright with jeans and more casual fare. So, I would get the one that works best for you now and start saving for the second pair.

    On a somewhat related note, I would not participate in that GMTO without being fairly certain the 2 last works for you. Having participated in that thread for a few years, I can say there are very few people that have the long and narrow foot the 2 last is made for. Every year, there is a huge surge of 2 last MTO's or sale-inspired purchases followed one month later by people complaining that their shoe is defective because it has excessive creasing and other wear problems that were caused by buying a shoe that is way too long in order to get the width right.
     
  14. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

    Messages:
    7,388
    Likes Received:
    4,742
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2012
    Pleats: as Butch said, it's nothing to do with being a fatty or not. It's partly style (extending the vertical lines of the trouser crease all the way to the waist, when they pull out of a flat front), but also comfort and practicality. When sitting, a pleated front allows a little room for movement: pleats aren't for people with bellies, they're for people with testicles who don't go for the "mangina" look when seated. As for reverse or not, the reverse pleat is just visibly more defined - not just an extension of the crease line, but a more prominent exaggeration of it. I don't think they make any practical difference.

    I also think that flat, low rise trousers make men look like monkeys. Higher waist, single pleat is my personal preference, but each to his own. I may be biased because of my fatness, and also my massive bollocks.
     
  15. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

    Messages:
    1,953
    Likes Received:
    2,109
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2013
    Location:
    London
    Yeah I have my pants not too high up, but definitely higher than most people (just above the waist), and it's more comfortable there. I thought reverse pleats are less visible though since you don't see the opening from the front.

    Do you think pleats are apporpriate too for pants that you plan on wearing sometimes without a jacket? Like linen pants and the like? Seems like consensus even amongst pleat wearers is that it's more for dress trousers.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by