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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. ellsbebc

    ellsbebc Senior Member

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  2. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Well if we're doing PSAs, then please note my sig below: this custom run is so cheap, the calf boots are the same price as seconds and closeouts. And $650 for a shell high boot, in a fantastic make up. Unbeatable. Winter is coming, if you jump on this train now you'll have a new bad weather rotation by November.
     


  3. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    You guys know anything about braces, are pants for suspenders necessarily cut significantly differently, or is it possible to get trousers with belt loops as well as suspender buttons with the idea of wearing either (not both at the same time?) ie use suspenders if wearing a waistcoat or double breasted jacket and therefore braces will never be seen, but if not then wear belt. Additionally are clip on suspenders that bad if you're wearing them in a such a way that they won't be seen at all?

    I just want to give it a try to see what the comfort is like, so I don't feel like I want to go all the way and get trousers than cannot be worn with a belt. Plus sometimes I just like the aesthetics of a belt.
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2014


  4. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Distinguished Member

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    Trousers with pleats are usually cut fuller because they were usually worn by heavier men that needed more space. I don't thin trousers with pleats that are cut slim would look good because the pleats would flare if the seat was to be strained.

    As for buttons or clips, I prefer buttons for the aesthetics and I believe that's practice on SF. Furthermore, consensus is that you should remove the belt loops if you use braces. Personally I haven't removed the belt loops on mine, partially because I'm lazy but also because I enjoy wearing belts inbetween times.

    As for the usage of belts and suspenders at the same time, it depends on your occupation. Sweden's former Minister of Finance/Treasury Secretary Gunnar Sträng used both to depict restrictiveness and caution with the state's money. So unless you work as a treasurer, you should avoid this look.
    [​IMG]
     


  5. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    I think you misread because I meant specifically not to wear together, and merely to alternate between the two as you do, but I recall reading that trousers for braces tend to be cut differently, seems like it's not a significant difference though.

    Are clips useable if they are not seen, though, or do they not hold up properly/damage the trousers?
     


  6. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Distinguished Member

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    I understood what you meant, but thought it was nice trivial information to the discussion.

    They are cut differently. One has a classic cut and the other a modern/slim fitting cut. Not just in the leg area, but in the seat, hip and back/front rise areas also. They're completely different pants.

    To be honest, I've never worn clip-ons and have no intention to either. I think they look childish, but that's just my personal opinion. I've seen them worn at Pitti, though. So I guess they work for some people.
     


  7. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Distinguished Member

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    Last edited: Sep 7, 2014


  8. Academic2

    Academic2 Distinguished Member

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    It's my understanding that adding buttons for braces isn't hard to do, nor is removing belt loops.

    For someone who isn't heavy who wears pleated trousers to very good effect in my opinion check out EFV's fits.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     


  9. Cleav

    Cleav Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored Moderator

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  10. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Sounds nice. However, even if the price includes a complete waiver of Carmina's 50% MTO charge and compares to their usual boot range at around $500 for regular leather ($610 if you live in the EEA), that's for normal old cow, not shell. The MTO I referred to has three options of cow too, but at only $295. Ironically the brown one, grain calf, was inspired by a Carmina jumper boot. SF circle jerk? You bet.

    Anyway, I normally just float on a cloud of awesomeness, so traction isn't really an issue: I'm propelled by the power of will alone.

    I'll tell you what, though: as I'm currently in for (I think) four MTOs, one for two different shoes, two them for at least two versions or the same shoe, and from three different makers, I have to say this forum is fucking deadly.

    P.S. Now looking at the Carmina site again...
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2014


  11. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Distinguished Member

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    E shell finishing is facepalm :( and tbh they had pretty regular 15-30% discounts on their entire range in years past so the MTO pricing isn't that special

    My main gripe with AE boots is the lack of quality leather on the shaft and the tongue. I purchased a walnut shell Dalton and a bourbon calf Dalton a few years ago, went through multiple exchanges, and always ended up with super-wrinkly leather on both the shaft and the tongue.

    Best of luck with the MTO. Navy boots are quite striking
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2014


  12. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Distinguished Member

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    If you're going to wear braces, do it properly. Get buttons sewn inside the waistband, or sew them yourself, it's super easy. Remove belt loops, or if you're going bespoke ask for side adjusters instead of belt loops. Belts are so overrated anyways. If the trousers fits well, side adjusters/side tabs should be more then enough to kepe them up, and they're much more comfortable.

    Trousers cut specifically for braces are very different. They drape beautifully and should be very comfortable. The only downside that you'll always have to wear them with braces, as side adjusters don't really work. Here's a picture of Vox wearing trousers with a fishtail back:
    [​IMG]

    Also, get yourself some Alberth Thurston box cloth braces is sober colours such as navy, burgundy, grey or forest green. You can find them for 50% off or more on ebay.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2014


  13. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    To be honest, all my AEs came at clearance prices, including my one pair of shell (seconds). Anyway, these are winter boots, not for babying. But if the shell doesn't work, I'll probably do the merlot. Navy shoes are coming from Vass already!
     


  14. jrd617

    jrd617 Stylish Dinosaur

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  15. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    ^^Heck yes. Beautiful. Grey flannels, rusty tweed tie and some fat brogues...lovely.
     


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