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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Guys, I tend to think for an overcoat, you might as well get double breasted since the point is warmth and presumably, especially with wind a factor, it'd be better to get double breasted, do any of you have arguments for single breasted? What do you guys think about a dark brown double breasted overcoat? I wonder if that'd be a bit jarring as brown is more of a casual/country color.
     
  2. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    brown is good.

    i have a chocolate brown cashmere overcoat and it is probably my most used. goes with everything...except if you are wearing more brown.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2014
  3. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I've got a 50% cashmere mid-gray coat and that cost quite a bit. I never asked but I imagine a full cashmere one is quite expensive.

    I've look through a bunch of coating fabrics and coats and chocolate brown (which is what I'm hoping to get) seems not super popular for some reason. Weird, seems like the perfect color to me.
     
  4. akoustas

    akoustas Senior member

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    There's a good selection of top coats on sale on YOOX.

    I got a 100% Wool Luigi Bianchi Mantova single breasted coat for $250.

    Plenty of double breasted options in brown (and cashmere) at higher price points (500s or so) but it was a bit of an emergency purchase and I've gotta stop being selfish and buy some x-mas gifts for others.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2014
  5. akoustas

    akoustas Senior member

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  6. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    a DB overcoat is pretty dressy...so if you are planning on wearing it with suits it is appropriate...

    You seem to dress more casually...so an SB might make more sense.
     
  7. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    If I use a timer, which is rare, I just use the camera+ app, and set the timer to 30 seconds. You can count the beeps and it counts off numerically the last 5 seconds.
     
  8. yanagi

    yanagi Senior member

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    I'm a business school doctoral student "on the job market" this year. My department had a seminar today, and the speaker is from a school that I thought was hiring. I put this on today (sorry for bad quality; my smartphone is still charging):

    [​IMG]
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    One of my female colleagues in another department said I looked nice but that I overdressed and risked coming off as "trying too hard." Can I get some second opinions on this?
     
  9. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    Where to begin...

    1. lose the tie clip.
    2. fix your tie and tie it properly.
    3. your shirt cuffs are either too long or you blazer cuffs are too short.
    4. is that blazer black? don't wear a black blazer...opt for a navy
    5. what kind of pants are those?...they look like khakis...get a nice pair of medium grey dress pants
    6. get a shirt with a spread collar.
    7. is that a knit tie? don't wear knit ties for job stuff...they are too casual. wear a nice neat patterned tie in a blue, brown, or burgundy...or a striped tie of similar accord.
    8. what shoes are you wearing?
    9. since you are a beginner i will take it easy on the fit of your blazer...it needs some work though.
    10. white shirt is too stark of a contrast with black blazer and khaki pants. try for blue blazer, grey pants, and white or sky blue shirt....or go for a full navy suit with white or sky blue shirt.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2014
  10. yanagi

    yanagi Senior member

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    Thanks for the quick reply.

    1. No problem.
    2. Yeah, I saw that after I took the photo. Bleh.
    3. Shirt cuffs are too long.
    4. It's navy; the lighting is just bad. I'm glad you see it as a blazer, though; this was actually a concern of mine because as someone very much still learning, it doesn't have "blazer features" like patch pockets and contrasting buttons. Also, my female colleague thought it was an orphan jacket.

    5/6/7. Yes, they're khakis; it's an OCBD; and yes, it's a knit tie. Again, as someone new and still learning, I thought these made the outfit less formal and thus toned down any risk of "trying too hard."

    8. I was wearing these: http://cdnb.lystit.com/photos/bb8a-...1-22228685-4-157820867-normal_large_flex.jpeg

    9. What did you have in mind?
    10. Thanks. I will keep this in mind.
     
  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    FWIW you are probably trying too hard, unless your department has a dress code way different from any department I know of. If you want to get your visitor's attention, email him ahead of time expressing interest in his research and ask if you can talk to him about it (or, if your department arranges meetings between visitors and students, try to get one of those).
     
    3 people like this.
  12. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    honestly i didnt pay too much attention to the jacket...but it does look like an orphan.
     
  13. yanagi

    yanagi Senior member

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    Thanks.
     
  14. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    Monthly Hello! :cheers:
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Monthly talk to ya later! Hope all is well.
     
  16. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not knowing what I was getting into, I saw Oldbpy in theaters with my mom. Afterwards, she said "Claghorn, that was an excellent movie. And we will never talk about it again."

    There are few worse movies to see with one's mother.
     
    5 people like this.
  17. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    While browsing overcoats I just realized that I really like trenchcoats, I've just realized I don't event want a normal overcoat I just want a wool trenchcoat. I understand most of SF think they are tacky though.

    [​IMG]

    lol I DON'T CARE I AWNT A LEATHER JACKET THINggg me only young once yes


    I still haven't watched Wolf of Wallstreet. Recently someone mentioned it and I said I haven't watched it. I said I haven't really had the chance because my spouse didn't want to watch something with a rape scene in the theatre, and the person said "what no, there's no rape scene" and I was like ?? huh rly? I thought...

    Took me a moment to realize that people apparently just have different definitions of rape I guess.

    Was reminded this because a friend of a friend who's into bespoke clothing was talking about how he wanted to be like DiCarprio's character semi seriously. I'm like o_O
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2014
  18. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    Debbie Does Dallas?


    ---

    Howdy, jungle.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2014
  19. JIMB

    JIMB Senior member

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    I'm still thinking the corduroy is too big, which could explain the collar gap and disappearing shirt collar. I have considered trying Luxire for shirts, so I'll try posting a couple shirt fits to make sure I'm not as off as I was with sportcoats. If that works out will try raising the shirt collar as well.

    I'll keep the BBs in mind if I can find a 40L with side vents. I had a chance to try on a few more makes, took pictures of the ones that hit around the thumbs, with a preference for side vents. In any particular jacket, started with 40R, but if it was too short, moved to 40L, then 42, and finally 42L (if respectively available). I'm hoping the lower backs get cleaned up once I've corrected my posture.
    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]

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    Finally, I have an existing suit which hits closer to my thumbs, but based on feedback so far I'm thinking not long enough:
    [​IMG]

    And pants can be hemmed.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  20. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    We're talking about length of SC here.

    Length at some point is a matter of taste. The suit length is ok. Seems proportional to your height and just about covers seat. Optical illusions are worth noting but the last SC looks to hit obout the same place but feels too long. Makes your torso seem long to my eye. IM on iPhone. Anyway hard to tell since pants are dark (light pants next time).I wouldn't say it has to be the end of the thumb exactly. That was just to get SCs that would reach the seat when earlier ones you posted did not. The suit jacket length would be within an acceptable range for my own tastes.

    I like the fit in front of the first two jackets best. Shoulders clean, lapel line straight. Do the lapels lie flat on the chest or does chest feel a bit big (40 or 42?). Hard to tell anything in back. Shoulders look a touch too big in others. My 2 cents. Others should weigh in.

    What do you think about those jackets?
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2014

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