Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    A good tailor can shorten pants in less than 20 minutes, sleeves take a bit more time, depending on how they're made, but not more than an hour. Maybe you should go to a normal tailor for the simple stuff, and only go to Fields for the more complicated alterations?
     
  2. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    LOL. Let me ship them off to you!
    Being the stereotypical Korean that I am, my parents used to own a dry cleaners. My mother did alterations, my dad ran the machines and pressed/ironed, and I pressed shirts on weekends. Too bad I never picked up on alterations when I had the chance to.


    I would have gone nuts over 2 weeks in my younger days but I am just like whatever. [​IMG]


    I don't want to misrepresent Field Tailoring. Will has been nothing but excellent. I don't know what his usual turnaround time is but it may be more of my own doing as I usually say I will pick these up in about a week or two.

    For small alterations on my non-important suits, I take it to a dry cleaners 5 minutes from my house.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2014
  3. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    Isolation. It's natural to get a bit defensive, especially towards something that you seemingly did some research on and have invested quite a bit of money so far into. That being said, you still are the customer and they need to make you happy So far I wouldn't be happy with the results but it is a work in progress. I would try to indicate the areas of concern as early as possible based on some of the suggestions given here in the last few pages. I do hope it works out in a positive manner for you but if nothing else it will be a learning experience. One that we've all been through in one way or another. Try not to take the responses here so personally but more as advice and ideas to convey to your tailor. I look forward to seeing the finished product! :cheers:
     
  4. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Geez, I've taken good trousers to the dry cleaner alterations for a hem/cuff and picked them up same day. It is really hard to screw up.

    Don't start questioning the fit again, Noodles. That suit didn't work well for me, which is why you have it. It looked great on you.
     
  5. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    =) I hope it goes well, and yeah, I do feel like at least I am learning. I'm well aware I am a newbie, but I'm not an idiot. I know you guys are more knowledgable than me and also have a higher standard, and I'm paying attention, but I feel like blindly agreeing with sentiments without arguing back when I don't understand is not going to help either, I hope I don't seem rude or ungrateful in my responses. Really, I just want to be sure before I make decisions either way. I guess the final results will be telling, and at this point the best is to see how it goes and then make the decision then.
     
  6. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    ...and I will always be thankful for what you did! [​IMG]
    YTM!
     
  7. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    @Isolation I think you should research the cut that flatters your body the most before commission another bespoke project. As @Murlsquirl indicated, you are over emphasizing your broad shoulders with the heavily padded jackets. I think you will look better wearing a lightly structured italian jacket with fuller pants, but we won't know for sure till you try different options on.

    This is when people are getting advise to get more structured clothing. :D
     
  8. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    I have to agree with everyone else giving you the advice not to give up on RTW. I'm positive my build would benefit a great deal from bespoke/MTM clothes rather than RTW, but I'm committed to learn every aspect of the game before going bespoke/MTM.

    For example: I started out with Land's End trousers (am still using them btw, you'll know why later), moved to B&S on SF in order to find better quality pants. Once I knew my size (Panta, HY etc.) I purchased pants from the vendors' websites. Same with shirts, Land's End --> TM Lewin/Charles Tyrwhitt/SuitSupply etc. And I'm still there. I may try out Luxire for shirts this year.

    For suits I went, again, for TM Lewin and from there to Zegna, Sartoria Partenopea etc from B&S. I'm still using the TM Lewin suits and am still dipping my toes in the water at B&S because I still don't know what I prefer the most. But I've learnt a great deal about fits, looks, aesthetics etc.

    As for trousers, which have taken the longest time to get right, I've learned that I prefer higher trouser rise than average (HY & Panta have 10-10,5" rise) because of my build and I need at least one pleat on my pants because of my fat bottom even if I take out the trousers at the back. I can't fit in regular pants (again, HY) without creases or pockets flaring out. Was/is it an expensive lesson? Of course, but I've been careful to purchase stuff I know would be fairly easy to sell at B&S once I go bespoke/MTM without loosing to much money on it. Land's End showed me that I prefer higher rise and the other makers that I need pleated pants. I'm confident that this is going to save me a lot of money in the long run.

    The process have taken 3 years and it's still a progress. I've promised myself to not commission any bespoke/MTM suit until I get my suit for my wedding, which is another 2 years. By then, I hope I've got to know my body better and have a better sense about details and what fits me and what not.

    I know that you may not be able to take the same journey as I have, but you get the point. You do it to know what cut is the best for you. You don't need a dozen of seasonal suits in order to look good at work. You'd be fine with 3 staple suits, 2-3 SCs and a couple of pants. That's how I did it. Good luck! =)
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2014
  9. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    @Isolation
    I went through something similar with my suits. Glad to see that you are receptive of what fellow SF'ers are saying. It was a hard pill to swallow for me but I just accepted it and moved on with a bit of noise. Here is basically what I went through.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  10. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Interesting. I will look into that!

    Thanks for your advice. I will pay more attention and take my times with different things.

    My go to has been Uniqlo in the past. Fortunately for me, my worst picnic attack causes were shirts which weren't TOO expensive.

    Noodles I wonder if you can summarize your growth on SF and this thread succinctly, I'm curious how you would do it, or what stages you go through or if it is cyclical in any way?
     
  11. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Iso, the Chan suit looks much better in this latest pic. All of the apparent issues look fairly minor and easily resolved.

    As for the others, I'm not sure why you're showing us a suit which is made for someone other than you. Of course the fit will be wonky. If you just want to show the make and fabric, take a picture on the hanger.
     
  12. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    It's not rocket science. Read a couple of the old threads on fit and style and the city country spectrum etc., so you know what to look for. Take a Saturday and visit all the major RTW brands. Try on loads of different cuts, look in the mirror, walk around in it. Buy the one that fits you best and hopefully it isn't too expensive. Wear this suit a once or twice a week over the course of month, continue to read and educate yourself. You'll notice things that are wrong or that you'd like to improve. Post it online and listen to advice, don't argue, just accept it.

    Go shopping again with your new criteria, you can include online this time if you wish. Buy one thing and wear it for a while. Pay more attention to how you can wear it this time. How versatile is the fabric, what do you like about the cut? Show several different combinations online with your new items, listen to the advice.Repeat this for let's 6 months to a year, and by now you should have developed a keen eye. You're now ready to try MTM/bespoke, assuming you have the funds.

    Here's my first post, 1.5y ago, and two recent posts:

    [​IMG]

    vs.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I'm probably going to keep buying Eidos jackets and SP suits for the foreseeable future. They fit me well enough off the rack that bespoke isn't really necessary.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2014
  13. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Iso, maybe someone has said this already, but it takes at least two commissions for a good tailor to really get a feel for a clients body. This is one of the reasons it's I advisable to get more than one commission at once.

    It might be worth going back to Chan.

    It took me 3-4 jackets for my MTM tailor to figure out what so needed, and those ran around $600 or so, CMT. B&Tailor, which is a bit above that magic $1500, got it close to right the first time. My fourth jacket from them feels like perfection.

    Anyway....hang in there!
     
  14. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    I don't know if I can summarize it in one post. It is all here in this thread. But it is definitely not cyclical, that means I am just going around in circles and not learning anything.

    That first pic cannot possibly be YOU! Why did you take someone else's pic?!
    Very nice post showing one's progress.
     
  15. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Wow MF! I second Noodles statement, it's very nice seeing someone's progress. Is there a "progress thread" anywhere on SF? I couldn't find one.
     

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