Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    There are many different Savile Row tailors, and they vary in price quite a lot and also in their house styles. I'd recommend Cad and the Dandy if you want a no-nonsense, modern, reasonably priced tailor that produces reliable results in a fairly neutral style (i.e not outrageously stiff and military or massively draped). But, as others have stated, they would also start at just over $1500 for full canvas, handmade suits in the most basic fabrics. They also do half-canvas from and fused from just over $1200 and fused, machine-made from just over $900 - and both of those would be better than what you've shown us here. BTW, the machine-made ones are made in a factory that they own, not outsourced.

    Going for several items at once at low price is a false economy. As others have said, save up, get one or two things done at a time but done well by a reputable tailor.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2014


  2. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    40 bucks? I don't think your hyperbole is very useful. The jacket does not look that bad at all from the front.

    I already said in my first post the tailor is going to change most if not all the things mentioned before any comments (the sleeves are pinned and marked to have pitch and width adjusted), and while it's unfortunate sleeve pitch will mess with the checks, then that will be fixed in future suits or solid ones, and I consider the first suit not being perfect to be an acceptable consequence of getting significantly cheaper suits. "40 bucks" is a joke, I've got quite a bit of confidence this will look way better than what most people wear and pay more for, and more importantly, better than other stuff I get to wear.

    Thanks Kulata. I'd like to point out there have been many posts of Dream and Chan on this forum that's have been very well received as well, it's just my suits that have not come out looking too good. The clothes fitting body not body fitting clothes dichotomy doesn't make sense, and as far as I'm concerned is just rhetorical hogwash. Some bodies are harder to fit than others, so some people have more trouble getting tailors to dial in the fit than others, it's pretty simple surely.

    What did everyone think of the tweed jacket? At risk of making me sound even more stupid, I'd say that it looks pretty acceptable for a first basted fitting, especially when they aren't as experienced/specislized for women's bodies, and you can see from both tailor's result on their back shoulder that there are significantly fewer creases and wrinkles, and surely that alone shows that my body is probably somewhat harder to tailor for, which makes it even more obvious that RTW probably doesn't work that well for me, even if it may work for you.

    Now obviously a really good tailor would find no impediment in more difficult body types, but that comes at a significant price which at the moment I'm unable to pay. I'm really glad you're able to thrift lots of great things that fit you well, but there's no need to rub it in the face of someone whose body even otherwise well received "budget" tailors are apparently unable to tailor adequately for.

    For instance this is my Chan suit, which afaik IS regarded as a respectable tailor house.

    [​IMG]

    Thanks for the recommendation. Like I said I've mostly gotten one piece per person from my tailors at the start, I didn't just get 5 jackets made for myself from the same tailor as some seem to think I did, unless you mean my wish to get a dozen jackets and suits instead do 3, in which case I can I my ask: what do you expect me to wear in the meantime? Those 2 suits for the whole year and one for my partner? Even if it's 4 and 2 I'd say that's an overly thin wardrobe surely?

    Of course I've also seen stuff posted from this tailor that seemed to look pretty good so I was hoping for a good result but I'm hardly as grim about it as everyone seems to be.

    I suppose it's the denial stage after all.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2014


  3. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    [​IMG]
    The angle must be really off.
     


  4. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  5. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Dude, your pants are the worst. That's not due to your legs being hard to fit, but due to the tailor not knowing how to properly cut and shape pants. A RTW pair of pants from Uniqlo or H&M for 50 bucks will fit you better.
    Anyway, I give up. Either you take our advice, or you stop asking for it.

    Here's a pic of me in $10 H&M pants:

    [​IMG]
    Here's a pic of me in $15 H&M (a bit short, but that was my own hemming mistake, was an easy fix) and a $100 Suitsupply jacket:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2014


  6. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Isolation, don't fool yourself into thinking that there isn't RTW out there for your body type. I am terribly hard to fit and even I have found a few. Unbel did a great article for NMWA a while back on drop shoulders. Bottom line...you can find RTW that works, but you will have the best results with soft/minimal structured shoulders. The results you are getting from that tailor are terrible. I'm sorry, but it's true...same with Chan. You have a broad shoulders with a decent drop right...it's not that hard to fit. You're just going about it all wrong. I have a bad drop shoulder, a -9 drop, and terrible posture! This is RTW...
    [​IMG]

    Yes, the suit was fairly expensive but I have soft tailored jackets from Suit Supply ($400-500) that are just as clean. You're asking for advice, so don't shut off when it isn't what you want to hear.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2014


  7. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    In other news...where the hell is your suit, Noodles!?
     


  8. losrockets

    losrockets Senior member

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    Typically a lurker but for all you other lurkers reading this thread, seriously pay attention here. Most people, IMO, are not as hard to fit OTR, as they've convinced themselves to be. It's a matter of a different fit, a different brand, a different size. Don't jump the RTW ship because Suit Supply or RLBL doesn't fit you, it's going to be an expensive mistake. Instead take advantage of return policies and try on more expensive suits from other brands. As stitchy pointed out earlier, if you're paying less than $1500 for bespoke, you're probably not getting a very good product. That's Formosa et al. money, give them a shot first. Most tailors you find in that price range won't be able to give you the type of features executed to the level these RTW brands will.

    MF: is that the SS Soho wool/silk DB jacket you're wearing? Looks a lot like it. I owned that one for a while but it just never looked as good on me as it does on you and the couple other people on SF who've posted shots in it. Perhaps it came too suppressed in the waist for me, but OTR it gave me an hourglass shape so I ended up selling it (I tried both the 38 and the 40 and sizing up didn't seem to resolve the problem very much).
     


  9. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Iso, you have to stop posting these wide-angle pics which make your shoulders look huge and waist look tiny. They aren't helping your case or goal of getting useful feedback. The Chan pic is, literally, worthless to us in terms of giving advice. I suspect that suit's not as bad as you say, though.
     


  10. LEVOOSH

    LEVOOSH Senior member

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    @Isolation - at the risk of impugning my reading comprehension skills - are you female? That would explain some of the styling/fit issues that you are having and I think would alter some of the advice you are being given?

     


  11. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Plus one to Murl. I think there are very few people that truly need bespoke.
     


  12. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    The tailor that is working on my suit had like a month worth of backlog due to worker shortage.
    On the jacket, I just asked him to work on the sleeves only. It has been sitting in his shop for 2 weeks now waiting to be picked up.
    The pants just need to be shortened. That will take another 2 weeks or so.

    As far as you having a terrible body type for RTW, I am a bit baffled as I took the Formosa suit and am able to wear them with minor alterations. Even the infamous SS La Spalla fit me well RTW. I am confused. [​IMG]

    EDIT: I think Murl has broad shoulders and a darn narrow waste. I am neither but the Formosa fits me well [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2014


  13. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    2 weeks to shorten the pants?! Had I lived in DC I would have done it for you in an hour, free of charge. I always shorten my pants myself + do cuffs, it hardly takes any time at all and is a good way of winding down after a stressful day.
     


  14. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Thanks for your responses, I apologize for seeming defensive I am genuinely unsure.

    I hope you understand, I've used two tailors that have good reputation on SF, and whom have made good garments for many other SFers, and they both come back to me with bad results. Isn't it natural for me to assume that I am the problem?

    Looks like there's only a few possible explanations:

    a) I am hard to fit for

    b) I got really unlucky and ended up with some of the worst products of these tailors'

    c) these tailors are actually shit despite people on the forum seemingly thinking they're pretty good or at least decent

    d) magical camera angles that make it look worse than it is


    Finally I will stop defending my tailor, but instead will wait until the final fitting to post pictures. I hope you will give it one more shot; if that result is clearly not improved significantly, then you will be proven right after all. Right now I am holding on to the hope that the will fix these problems. Thanks for your comments so far and I hope you will bear with me and check out the final results.

    Edit 1, re female, I was referring to my partner's suit, they are the tweed green one and the second green moleskin. As you can see their back fabric has a lot less bunching even on first fitting compared to mine, which helps my theory I think (two tailors, same results on both customers, surely an indication?). Also this is probably relevant but I did ask my tailor for a somewhat slim trouser which makes it harder to get straight. Obviously it's harder to get that right, but I like a slightly modern look. If it still doesn't look good I will just ask them to have a flat out wider trouser, it's not like it's not fixable.

    Edit 2: Sorry about the photos, it was the only one I have on hand at the time, I'm new to this taking photos of suits thing (and I mean I wasn't even the one taking it I guess), I'll try to take better ones in the future. This is the only other one I have. Suit is all the way in the UK now so I can't take more. I don't think it's that bad of a suit, and anyway it's my wedding suit so it has emotional significance, but as you can see it still has wrinkles.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2014


  15. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Senior member

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    Wow, Will must be busy. Here's hoping I can make an appointment with him in the near future
     


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