Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. MGD83

    MGD83 Senior member

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    I think some people are just plain cheap :)

    I'm assuming that most men have at least 3-5 pairs of dress shoes in rotation. Let's say they last you for 15 years (maybe more) each after being re-soled say 2 or 3 times per pair over the life span of the shoe. Is that not enough value for the money spent? Stop being such cheapskates and buy a new pair of shoes after 15 years, or buy more shoes for your rotation. Why would you want to wear the same pair of shoes for 20 years anyways?
     


  2. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @jssdc

    Yeah, I meant the last comment in jest.

    I think the point that gets lost in those old threads is that DFW is correct about the structural issue: cementing is inferior to stitching, and GYs involve cementing at a crucial structural step.

    I don't think clear headed thinkers disputed that. What is left open is the actual "peril" a shoe owner faces given the nature of gemming in a random pair of GY welted shoes. I think by DFW's own admission, it is not high, but it is not zero. There was quite a bit of conflation of claims among discussants in those threads. They are not fun to read, which leads to obscuring the basic lesson.

    What I do find interesting is his claim that Blake-Rapid is better than GY welting and would not be more costly to produce. I'm curious why the industry has not moved in that direction. It might just be that gemming tends to hold, or it might be that a person who can afford to buy EG, G&G, C&J, etc. also tends to have the manufacturer recraft the shoe and the rest really can't tell the difference. The disadvantage of Blake-Rapid or Blake is that, as I understand it, a standard cobbler cannot resole it.
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2014


  3. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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  4. Stencil

    Stencil Senior member

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    David Foster Wallace is on SF? I thought he was dead!

    I have heard differently about Blake-Rapid and Blake stitched shoes. IIRC, Blake-Rapids can be easily resoled by most cobblers, but Blakes require specialized and uncommon machinery. Perhaps I have misremembered, though. I am not a shoe expert by any means.

    I read a thread some time ago detailing the differences in machinery required for different soles, and what each resoling process entails, but I cannot for the life of me find it now [​IMG]
     


  5. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Couldn't agree more with Greg in this one.
     


  6. circumspice

    circumspice Senior member

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    I was really hoping for more posts about gemming
     


  7. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    Vass antique cognac: OK with navy and dark grey or too much contrast like a tan-ish shoe? What about less-than-navy blue and mid-grey?

    I wear my antic cognac austerity brogues less than I probably should because I can't tell whether the contrast is too high.

    Also, my iPhone has learned to autocorrect other things to "Vass." I consider that a great victory.
     


  8. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    On matters gastronomique: Going out to dinner next week w/ auntie in NYC. She has reservations to both Le Bernardin and Sushi Nakazawa. Never been to either, though one has been around forever and the other is new kid on the block. I love sushi (don't dream of it however) and all manner of seafood. I have a feeling either choice would be excellent, though very different experiences.

    Must decide between the two soon, my choice. Thoughts?
     


  9. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    ^ Le Bernardin. In a place like NYC, there are a lot of great sushi places that don't have the hype. Le Bernardin is absolutely worth going to, though, so I'd go there.
     


  10. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    It's the dandified look (no judgement) I want to avoid.


     


  11. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    This seems like sound advice. Hype may be the key word, though NYTimes review was absolutely gushing ( same w/ Le Bernardin though, for that matter, w/ multiple 4 star reviews over the years, Michelin stars, etc).

    I think you've helped me decide--thanks.
     


  12. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What in particular? There are old threads one can plow through although a lot of needless hot air. But I would put it down to three main points

    1. Gemming, in its reliance on cement, has the disadvantages of that method relative to hand stitched and if it fails there are some substantial negative consequences that can only be addressed adequately by recrafting at the original factory.

    2. The probability of a given type and make of shoe failing in respect of gemming and various circumstances is unknown (e.g. Does walking in rain in leather soles increase likelihood of gemming coming unglued?)

    3. That it is likely that such failure will practically not be an issue for those who properly care for and rotate their shoes.

    I was surprised by 1. Made Meermin lineo maestro more attractive. Most of these points get lost in the back and forth of older threads.
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2014


  13. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Medium to dark browns (I include antique cognac in that range) are versatile and all the combinations you mentioned are in good taste as far as I'm concerned. The typical noob mistake with darker shoes is a bit of the same actually : pairing them with trousers that are way too light. It isn't quite as bad as light shoes with dark trousers but that's really when the tan/chestnut shoes are at their best.
     


  14. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    IMHO the light pants/dark shoes combo works best when shoes are suede. Hardliners will argue that suede shouldn't be worn in summer, when light pants are most often worn, but this objection is too pedantic for most.
     


  15. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Senior member

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    Whoa, whoa, whoa. Who says "no" to suede loafers in the summer?
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2014


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