Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Isolation, a dark navy suit looks awesome on anyone. I also have another suggestion for your purposes: as you're having the suit made and it can be anything you want, then get a three piece. A simple, classic two button navy suit is quite understated without the waistcoat, but in all its three piece glory it is bad as hell. I like the DB just fine, but I think this might be more useful to you.

    Also, have you though of a chalk stripe? On a very dark navy or any kind of grey, it's fiercely business but makes a louder bang than the navy solid, and as a three piece, will definitely get your "bad mutha" image going at the table.
     
  2. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Yeah I have a charcoal bold chalkstripe flannel planned for my next trip. I also have a blue 3 piece already, and another mohair one planned.

    Anyway here's my first basted fitting.

    [​IMG]

    Apparently I am a pain to tailor for because of my dropped shoulder and so on, so I'm getting like 4 fittings it looks like, and they made the vest in another material to test. Had to extend the lapel a bit and shorten the trousers. No Asian jokes plz but they gave me too much rise. This picture doesn't look very good, but their attention to detail gives me a lot of confidence, and this is from having used 4 other tailors before. I hope the results are good, as I'd be happy to keep going with this tailor in the future.
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2014
  3. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Isolation, there may be lens distortion in that shot, but the jacket looks a tad long. Also the trousers look too thin.

    I like the colour. What's the material? Got any swatch shots?
     
  4. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Pants are a bit tight for your frame, but it could just be the angle that makes you look top heavy.

    Also, for future reference, DBs look better with wider lapels than their SB counterparts, as do peak lapels to notch.

    +1 on mohair. That fabric, I think, will capture a lot of what you want to convey.

    +2 on the midnight blue. Meaty peak lapels or three piece.
     
  5. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    lol...

    He's trying to do the Friday all blues challenge which is the source of the question.

    But still - denim or navy chinos are a no go. For this challenge, using a suit is optimal, or at least using some steel blue or light blue pants for contrast. I would simply skip the challenge if I had to use navy chinos or denim.
     
  6. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Senior member

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    Funny to see a Wally's reference in this forum. I used to play there on Thursday nights in 199-2000. Thanks for triggering the memories!

    By the way Jason Palmer (the trumpet player) is an old friend of mine. Great player, world class!

    Back to denim suits, I did a spring 15 preview event for RL back in early August and did get to see this up close. Nice, but would. Never. Wear.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Thanks. This is the fabric: http://www.dugdalebros.com/online-shop/new-fine-worsted-bunch-140/8945/

    Thanks guys, the jacket length and trouser width actually was a contentious point that I was not sure about but the tailor convinced me to see if it works next fitting first, as he reckons [the trouser width] works well with what is presumably a somewhat modern styling. Do you think I should change it? I added another picture from another angle.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Yeah now that I look at it, jacket definitely needs to be shortened. How much you guys reckon? Inch? 1.5? I'll email the guy to see if I can get it sorted for next fitting and maybe have the button placement prepared for it. I think as well as the jacket length, the sleeve length also needs to be adjusted and that's why it seems so long (I think?), so probably a slight shorteneing of jacket is enough if I bring the sleeve out a bit?

    Trousers I think I'll see after they fix the crotch/waist area, I think a narrower trouser leg works better as I am going no break with cuffs. In any case I'll be able to change it if it doesn't look good. I really want this first suit to be perfect though as I'll have a couple of suits made after this based on it, so comments and help much appreciated!
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2014
  8. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Is this going to be an SB or DB jacket? If SB, the lapel width is fine, otherwise it's way too narrow. If this is an SB I'm hoping that you're planning on rounding off the fronts ("quarters"). Judging from the lack of cloth in the buttoning area I'm guessing it will be an SB though? Also, judging from the quoted picture you should definitely NOT shorten the jacket. The pants need hemming (of course) and I would let them out just a smidge (so they don't cling to your legs and get stacked). The shoulders look good on you, especially if you have sloping shoulders irl, the tailor's managed to hide that while still they're looking like quite natural shoulders.
     
  9. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Yeah this is an SB 3 piece, the navy fabric is a test piece for the vest. We discussed the quarters, and they are going to make significant changes to the waist area and up to get the open quarters come up naturally.

    Do you think jacket length is good then? Is it the sleeve length as I mentioned that make it looks long? I was just seeing that the sleeve ended much much earlier than the jacket.

    Yeah I'm fairly happy with how much they are working on it. If you look at my right shoulder (left on the picture) it's quite a bit dropped compared to the other (and I was told it's significantly more obvious from the back if wearing a jacket that's not balanced for it), and they are trying to make it look natural without too much compensating via padding. So far they've dealt with it a lot more carefully with a lot more attention to detail than the other tailors I've had so I'm quite optimistic.
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2014
  10. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    Did I miss the gangbang?
     
  11. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

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    +1 to the Gardner Museum and Wallys, -1 to Harvard Yard. (Sorry, I'm just a little biased. :tounge:)

    Time permitting, I think a trip to the ICA and Louis Boston would be nice as well.
     
  12. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    NO YOU!

    CA is tops in the list of places in the US I want to visit. Ill hit you up when the day comes.

    ---

    mimo - you are truly cray.
     
  13. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    I hate Baltimore city (the Chump City) on so many level and for so many reasons. Every time I go there I am reminded of that bitch.
     
  14. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Isolation, IMO, the trousers look very slim. Make you look like you have insanly large feet.
     
  15. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    @Ambulance Chaser , his wife wants to see it. Not much to see. I think he should go to MGH and HMS if they want to see the old timey boston architecture stuffs. And walk around beacon hill.
     

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