1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,106
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Thank you Greg for making such a product available to us. Full on bespoke will never be an option for me until the kids are done with college (and perhaps not even them), but I hope to dip into Formosa in the near future, especially one of the MTOs.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,225
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    The Formosa suits are awesome. I was fortunate to be able to check out them out at the spring NMWA trunk show. I unfortunately find myself preferring a shorter jacket at 5ft7 than even the Formosa shorts for MTO would allow; otherwise, I would be all over this stuff. When calculating price, don't forget to subtract the tailoring credit and SF discount (so around $350 total), which brings them down to around $1,850.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

    Messages:
    3,578
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2011
    Location:
    Ontario
    NMWA's Formosa suits look great and they seem to fit some people almost right out of the box, and if they fitted me that way then I'd be tempted. Only I know that they won't. And I can't see that I'd want to spend that much on RTW (however much handwork is involved), when the price is about 1.5 times the price my tailor would charge me for a 2-piece with equivalent fabrics. I could get a three-piece or a 2-piece with an extra pair of trousers for the price. So I can't really justify it.
     
    2 people like this.
  4. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    68,895
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
  5. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,064
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2014
    Location:
    NY
    Except your tailor isn't Formosa...
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

    Messages:
    3,578
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2011
    Location:
    Ontario
    Yeah, but neither is Formosa the tailor of the people who are buying RTW Formosa.

    And the stuff I get from my tailor will fit me perfectly and the process is something I value and enjoy. All for less money.

    So I'm not quite sure what your argument is. I've already said I would buy Formosa in a flash if it would fit me.
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2014
  7. AJL

    AJL Senior member

    Messages:
    2,626
    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2004
    

    Are you sure the short wouldn't fit you? Was there a short at the trunk show for you to try? (NMWA doesn't stock any shorts in house). You've seen pics of my gun check SC, no? At 29" I wouldn't dare go any shorter, and you know I'm approx the same height as you.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,225
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    

    Yeah. I didn't try on the short, but I find 28-29 inches to be the range I am comfortable with and really have no desire to go above 29 inches. A 40S would come in at around 30 inches from what I can ascertain, so that's about an inch longer than I'd like. It's possible that I have a slightly shorter torso even at the same height, so maybe this accounts for the difference.
     
  9. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,885
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    

    Your tailor is C&D, right? I asked them about a suit in flannel and the quote was over $2200, so about $400 more expensive than Formosa. The guy was also wearing a waistcoat that was about 2 sizes too small, so I was a little hesitant commissioning anything from them. Do you have any full length pics of your suits?
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  10. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

    Messages:
    1,454
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2012
    Would appreciate help, gentlemen.

    I have a job interview at a financial institute. I'm applying for a post as a financial investment manager. Knowing the clothing culture in Stockholm, I suspect the people conducting the interview will have ill fitting suits (and shiny ties in windsor knots with black derbies). Nontheless, it's a conservative (work) environment. What would be appropriate to wear? I'm thinking midnight blue suit in a classic cut, white shirt, navy reppe tie (and white linen pocket square) with black cap toes. Maybe a faint pin stripe navy suit instead of the solid midnight suit? To much cliché given it's finance? My only concern is that I may send out the wrong signals by out dressing those conducting the interview. Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2014
  11. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,885
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    

    Navy suit, white shirt, grey or burgundy neat tie and black cap toe oxfords. No pocket square.
     
    3 people like this.
  12. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,225
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    

    You have the right idea here. Given a choice between midnight blue solid and a navy pinstripe, I'd go for the former (though a navy solid may be better if you have one; no big deal if not). White shirt definitely. Blue or burgundy neat or solid tie will be fine. White linen pocket square if you must, but I tend to leave the pocket square at home on interviews personally (and it's the easiest way to not seem to be outdressing the interviewers).
     
  13. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

    Messages:
    3,379
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2014
    Ties are here! They're a bit darker in person than in picture. Both midnight navy.
    I wonder what would go nicely with these ties?

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  14. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

    Messages:
    3,762
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    
    Why, a grey flannel suit of course!
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2014
    5 people like this.
  15. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

    Messages:
    1,454
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2012

    Thanks, guys. I suppose sans PS would be best and would fit my purpose of not out dressing the interviewers also. I own a navy suit, but it has a small herringbone pattern. I'll stick to the midnight navy suit, burgundy tie (am not sure whether I own a neat, but I definitely do own a grenadine fina), white shirt and black cap toes. Thanks again.
     
  16. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

    Messages:
    3,379
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2014
    NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    I accidentally thumbed up!
    PoW would be more complementary.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

    Messages:
    3,762
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    

    Just pulling the proverbial leg. Nice ties, Noodles.

    @DonRaphael, good luck with the interview. (Personally I'd go for charcoal suit and navy tie, but that's just a matter of preference)
     
    2 people like this.
  18. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

    Messages:
    1,454
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2012
    Thanks, EliodA. I've got my hopes set up high for this one, so all luck is needed.

    As for the choice of suit, I don't own a solid charcoal suit. I let a beautiful Sartoria Partenopea charcoal suit in flannel slip out of my hands the other day. I'm deeply regretful, as it was available for a great price. I was very tempted to ask Murl whether he would consider selling his Formosa to someone else than Noodles when there was talk about it as redemption, but abstained as I didn't want to interfere.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2014
  19. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

    Messages:
    3,578
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2011
    Location:
    Ontario
    Their house style is strongly Huntsman-infuenced - although not as extreme. You saw one of mine and you already said you don't like the cut! We had an argument about it, remember? [​IMG] There are several of the forum's best dressed who have had things made by C&D, notably TTO, who was the main reason I went there initially. I like their house style, but I won't be using them for everything. For suits, I prefer that kind of cut, but for odd jackets not always*, and I also want to try at least one other tailor for odd trousers (just because).

    I'll be having the basted fitting for my next commission with C&D in November so I'll try to get more pictures this time... I'll also be getting fitted for a flannel suit at the same time. I don't know which cloth you were talking about with C&D, but I've never been quoted anything like that much for a 2-piece, even taking into account the fact that I tend to bring my own cloth so I avoid those kind of markups anyway (another reason for going bespoke for me, apart from the fact that I enjoy both the process and the final result)**.

    And if we were comparing Formosa bespoke with C&D bespoke at the same prices, I wouldn't be making these arguments, I'd be booking an appointment with Formosa... but I really cannot see much of an argument for any RTW at that price as they only come in Regular lengths at NMWA, they won't and trying to make Regular jackets into Short is a bad, bad idea. But if you know that it fits you and flatters you, congratulations, you've found your perfect suit and I am very happy for you.

    *In terms of unstructured RTW odd jackets, I've already found my perfect supplier - Ring Jacket from Osaka in Japan - who make a 36S that actually fits me and come with unfinished sleeves so there are no issues with trying to shorten sleeves that already have working buttonholes or any of the other stupidities that some expensive RTW makers indulge in. Plus I seem to have found a regular source of massively discounted jackets from RJ in my size right here on this forum...

    **Personally, if I could afford to pay substantially more, I'd go to Steed...

    PS: I agree that one of the guys who works at C&D seems to like things rather tighter for himself than I like (or think is flattering to anyone), but one thing I've learned already from meeting quite a few tailors is that you really can't necessarily make any judgments about the quality and fit of what they will produce for you based on what they like to wear themselves...
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2014
    2 people like this.
  20. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    68,895
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    

    This sounds like a great fit for any occasion, actually.

    ---

    Ties look great, Noodles.
     
    1 person likes this.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by