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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Exactly. Or in buying perfectly decent cheaper brands. I've seen all sorts of stuff from Suit Supply here for a few hundred bucks that looks good. They also have several different standard fits that you can, as far as I can tell, order reliably in different cloths with no worries once you find one that works for you. AND they have a proper MTM service in some of their branches where they'll measure you properly, and make any alterations you need after, for under a grand even with the best cloth. That's not quite bespoke, but it's close and it will give you three good-looking suits for the price of that Isaia shonker. Even in a cloth with a designer name on it, if you must.

    Go on, Noodles, be brave. I think I might even try that myself next time I'm in London - despite my super cheap local tailor (or maybe because...)
     


  2. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    Pretty sure this is it.

    Once my funds re-coup I'll be checking back in. I got called Huggy Bear today by an older gent in my office because I bought a dress hat last week. I had to look up Huggy Bear though.

    [​IMG]
     


  3. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I'm about to place an order for a MTO "Budapester" model wingtip derby from Vass. It will have a dainite sole for durability. (For those of you keeping score on retail price, this will be a full-retail purchase :D)

    I intend to wear this shoe with casual sportcoats and slacks. I already own a brown wingtip in cordovan. (RL Marlow)

    The two parameters I'm having trouble deciding on are:

    1). Last ("F" last vs. the "P2"/"New Peter" last)
    -F last is sleeker
    -P2 is rounder​

    2). Material (dark brown boxcalf vs. dark brown pebble grain).

    See circled in red

    [​IMG]




    At the moment I am leaning towards a P2 shoe with brown pebble grain. The brown pebble / dainite sole has been called "bombproof" in the Vass thread. I think it would make a good all-weather shoe. (Rain or shine, sleet or snow). I'm leaning towards the P2 because it's not as sleek/formal as the F last.

    What do you all think?


    Here's what a P2 shoe looks like brown cordovan. (I would be getting the same color shoe in calf)

    [​IMG]


    Here's an F last oxford wingtip in a lighter brown calf ("antique cognac), and a rough estimation of what a shoe in full brown pebble would look like (right):

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2014


  4. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    I like the pebble/smooth mix pic that you posted. Thats a pretty fancy shoe to do pebble grain to. I always thought pebble looked better on boots personally.
     


  5. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Too much bro. Too much.

    But go cordo
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2014


  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've tried SS MTM. You can see a pic of my jacket in the tailor's thread. Aside from a high stance/shorter than I would like, it came out pretty cleanly the second time round. I'd try them again, but the nicer fabrics are more expensive and I can't afford it right now.

    Jacket was on a special when I was in Amsterdam. I think if you have a reasonably typical body then it can work pretty well. The only issue I had with them is that they like higher button stances and shorter jackets, but you can work with them. There are basic cloths from well known Italian mills for 400-500 dollars (full canvas, horn buttons, working sleeve cuffs etc). Sometimes they have sales which is when I luckily found them (and cheaper in Europe to, plus -VAT). For gray/brown/navy suiting, I think you'd do pretty well.

    I agree with Mimo. You have a SS in DC. Go there next time you are in Georgetown. Try on all their fits, talk to the MTM guy. From your build, I think you'd actually be easy to fit, if they can take care of your upper arm. I'm 39R, 6 feet, 165.

    Clarinet Player has several things from SS too.
     


  7. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Keep leaning until you fall in that direction. You have a more dressy casual wingtip as you said. This one should really release your inner Magyar.
     


  8. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I am not Clag and I don't know shoes but I say go with cordovans. I'd get them...only if...sigh
     


  9. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Yeah I think full brown pebble is a good call. (Not half pebble/calf like in the pic)

    The last is a tough call. F vs. P2, decisions, decisions
     


  10. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I've always had a bad impression on SS. I will visit that store in Georgetown. I used to pass by it everyday as they were building that store.
     


  11. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    The best way to buy clothing is to walk into the shop with lots of things you like, try them on and see which fit. You could do that whole process by mail order, but the choices are fewer and the process much longer. Of course you love your NMWA suits and they are lovely. But quit pushing Noodles into mail order; I really don't think it's helping him.

    Noodles, focus. Go to some shops. Leave the websites for later, or wait until you can go hang out for an afternoon at NMWA and try a load of things together.
     


  12. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I already have cordo!!!! It's between boxcalf and pebble
     


  13. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    wel, zegna has a lot of cuts, some of which are great for me, others not. the formosas that NMWA carries are a little slimmer than most comparable zegnas. also, they have wider lapels and more open quarters. just order your normal size and one size up and one of the two should be fine.


    good stuff, but not top tier level. super slim fits.
     


  14. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    F is gorgeous, but this is a budapester in pebble grain from Vass. I think a more classic Hungarian last is the way to go - camp it up a bit. On an austerity brogue in museum calf, F would be beautiful. But this is a chunky shoe in country leather, so the P2 (which is already watered-down a touch in that it has a more extended toe than the really traditional ones) is the man for the job I think: go Hungarian, go seriously Hungarian I say. :)
     


  15. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    I have 3 suits from SS, all three out the door tailored $1600. I like them quite a bit. I think they have a certain stigma but if you can get past that they have nice suits imo.
     


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