Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Respectfully disagree. The purpose of this assignment is not to get him to purchase these finds.

    The purpose is to raise his awareness that he need not always pay retail.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2014


  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That issue (that he needs not pay retail) is of less importance than the primary issue (his choice in what he buys). But yeah, I did misunderstand your qualm.

    I'm picking these sellers not for him to actually buy from, but for him to choose. I encourage anyone else who questions their selection ability to do the same.

    Two suits from:

    http://www.brooksbrothers.com/mens/suits/0216,default,sc.html?pmin=1&prefn1=fit&prefv1=Fitzgerald

    And three from:

    http://www.saksfifthavenue.com/The-.../Ne-6lvnb5?FOLDER<>folder_id=2534374306443708

    And for the second, you'll need to consider fit.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2014




  3. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Anyone can achieve this if they have the funds and means to recover from their failures and a willingness to heed advice from those with a better eye, in my opinion.

    Fall 2015 also doesn't sound like much credit giving :/

    18 months?
     


  4. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    @Claghorn

    Also, picking from NMWA defeats the purpose of your assignment. (Training his eye to classical proportions for a slim build)

    ALL of the NMWA suits are good. He can't go wrong. That's just a mulligan.

    The key to "batting .750" is to be able to sniff out the red herrings like that poorly-cut Isaia in light grey that he posted.
     


  5. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Two things:

    - It doesn't have to be cut-price - cut price can be good, but it can also just be a cheaper maker.

    - This (as I understand it) is an exercise in locating value and good taste in the same suit. There will be NO BUYING. Ordering stuff online would be a moronic step at this stage. You have problems fitting stuff when you try it on. Buying it unseen will see you expelled from Styleforum forever. Stitchy VISITED NMWA. He also already knew how various makers work for him fit-wise and had some useful comparison information. You need to go and try on stuff in person, whoever makes it and wherever it comes from. A fused jacket from Wal-Mart that fits you will look better than a fully-canvassed hand-stitched wonder from Kiton with a baggy chest and pinched middle. Not that I'm suggesting you buy crap. Just don't buy expensive stuff (even NMWA) that will probably look like crap if you haven't tried it.

    Oh, and a third thing: if you can get a clear idea of what you want in terms of cloth, and if you can be disciplined enough to stick to something conservative enough to be low-risk, then I would say there's no harm at all in diving into bespoke. A medium grey, medium weight, medium quality (reasonably mid-range Super 120s) chalk stripe with a medium sized notch lapel, two buttons, four on the sleeve, single or no pleat trousers with or without modest cuffs, and belt loops for now as you don't wear three pieces with braces (yet!)...that's low risk. And unless the tailor is a charlatan, it will look twice as awesome as anything else you have.

    The thing is, you are not the same shape as a generic white man clothes buyer's dummy. Which is a bummer. Some people are, and loads of off the rail stuff fits them brilliantly, and they are lucky. You are not. And not just because you're a hollow-chested, fat-headed, narrow-shouldered Asian freak. I am not an "average shape" white man either. Neither is Claghorn. I have a massive head (and with it an oversized neck) in proportion to my shoulders. Actually, I suppose I'm a bit like an oversized slightly fat Asian in those proportions. Which is ironic as I'm black on the inside.

    But the point is that stuff off the rail might never, or very rarely, fit you well. Incidentally, that also applies to most MTM, that "guesses" the cut based on a few measurements and the average shapes associated with them. Altering the neck and shoulders on a suit jacket is a tricky business. If you've got the dough, try a tailor. And if you're a show-off, "my tailor" sounds way better than any label.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2014


  6. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    imo, most people bargain hunt out of need (at least i do). if rudals does not need to bargain hunt, then why bother. if he can shop at places like NMWA and be assured that he will be getting great goods with a great cut, why the eff not? it saves so much time and energy and the chances of success are exponentially better, as is the customer experience.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2014


  7. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I don't think any of my suits are boxy. They just are TEMPORARILY small dues to me bulking up (?). It's not that I pick out bad fitting stuff...well, maybe the Isaia one...but usually I think I do fine with finding good fits. My problem is that I don't know where to find good quality stuff that are not overpriced.
     


  8. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    NMWA, thats where you find it.

    and you can buy all your shirts from shop the finest.

    ties you know what to do.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2014


  9. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    This is true.

    But he has been alluding to an upcoming wedding that will cost him a lot. (And I have been facetiously egging him on to buy more ties despite this wedding :lol: )
     


  10. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Examples of what to look for:

    http://www.brooksbrothers.com/Fitzg...?dwvar_492K_Color=GREY&contentpos=2&cgid=0216
    [​IMG]

    Verdict: No
    Reason: Single vent, faint self stripe (which I don't mind provided it's herringbone. This isn't)


    http://www.brooksbrothers.com/Fitzg...var_MK00328_Color=CHAR&contentpos=4&cgid=0216
    [​IMG]

    Verdict: No
    Reason: Too shiny. Too short. Single vent. Some may dislike the stripe.

    http://www.brooksbrothers.com/Brook...ar_MK00261_Color=MDGY&contentpos=12&cgid=0216
    [​IMG]

    Verdict: Yes
    Reason: For CBD, there isn't anything wrong with pinstripes. Good color, decent lapel width.
    Trick question: Just kidding. Not 100% wool.
    Real verdict: No

    http://www.brooksbrothers.com/Regen...ar_MK00309_Color=CHAR&contentpos=10&cgid=0216

    [​IMG]
    Verdict: No
    Reason: If you go plaid, go plaid. Patterns intended to be bold should be done boldly.

    http://www.brooksbrothers.com/Regen...ar_MK00144_Color=BLUE&contentpos=20&cgid=0216
    [​IMG]

    Verdict: Yes
    Reason: Because I'm Claghorn and that shit floats my boat right there.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2014


  11. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I'm actually fine with him binging on ties. Those are relative small potatoes compared to $3k suits. Those ADD UP and probably aren't good for a mid-career accountant with a wedding coming up.
     


  12. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't mean good. I mean textbook. It's a Korean thing. Samsung started off by copying other company's technology. It was actually encouraged by the government. They broke it down and built it up again. At some point shit began to click, they picked up the ball and ran end zone to end zone.

    Seriously. Perfection is an unhealthy obsession here. In everything they do. It stems from a belief that there is only ONE way that something can be right. For example, something like beauty isn't subjective to a lot of Koreans. There is a perfect face and the further away you are from it, the less beautiful you are. There is no such thing as "different but equal" here. I know Koreans who actually can't fathom the concept. In a lot of our pursuits, we're hindered by the knowledge that there are alternatives. They aren't.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2014


  13. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Single isn't a deal breaker if you don't have a huge ass.

    I always go for double because I have a huge ass. True, double vent is more "formal," but it's not a necessity for some builds.

     


  14. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Ties are also infinitely easier to sell and recoup some of your money.
     


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