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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    Ouch! I'm not surprised by the negative response to the floral ties. It's OK, I've plenty of SF-approved Sam Hober ties to replace them.

    However, please recall that I mentioned that my old DBs pictured above are being disposed of and replaced with newer SB suits, albeit in similar tropical beige/mustard and PoW check fabrics. So, I trust you're not objecting to the suit fabrics, which are both classic mainstays. Please note the new suits are intended for mainly tropical use in South East Asia.

    Anyway, thanks @in stitches for the frank feedback, much appreciated.

    EDIT: (Note to self: as suggested by @kulata consider Spanish white/off white/cream/stone coloured solid fabrics -- instead of the above beige/mustard fabric -- for new SB tropical/summer suit to replace the old DB on left above).
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2014
  2. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    @BespokeKiwi the individual items are workable but a combo of what you posted will simply be terrible :(

    I'd rock those ties with casual suits (Blue, tan, white or green cotton suits ) and loafers all day. I have something against contrast collared shirts and this is just personal preference and I'm not condemning them,
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Lol i love this forum.
     
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  4. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    So Doodals is going to have some tequila shoots to prove he wife there are worst things than SF? Lulz! [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  5. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    @kulata regarding the ties with 2 piece business suit ensembles, got it. (Note to self: don't do it).

    I do agree with you that casual suits/SCs are the way to apply those particular floral ties, if I must. Thanks for the frank feedback, @in stitches too.

    The trouble with getting older, is that it's easy to get struck in the past. Moving on...
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2014
  6. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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  7. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    Anyway, it's out with the old DB suits...

    [​IMG]

    ... and in with the new SB SC/blazers (and new SB suits too coming soon)...

    [​IMG]

    New Arrival: I've just received a new SB Neapolitan SC/blazer in jet blue with dark brown horn buttons. Just in time, for spring/summer down under in New Zealand. See picture below.

    - Unfortunately, my tailor used the wrong coloured fabric for the tropical/summer half lining. It was supposed to be baby blue not dark blue. So, it will have to go back to HK for adjustment.
    - Also, I noticed the gorges are about a half inch lower than the previous navy blue one (pattern master) they made for me earlier. Damn, that issue can't be fixed without a remake, I expect. Hmm.

    Anyway, I will post fit pictures over on the HK tailors thread in the next few days or so. If any interest, then I will X-post here too.

    [​IMG]

    As noted by @EliodA earlier, I've pretty much got the solids side of my wardrobe refresh sorted now. So, I'm moving onto textures (flannels, birdseye, tweeds etc) and subtle patterns next (e.g. PoW and gun club checks etc) now. A well beaten path, indeed.

    I appreciate the frank feedback/advice everyone. Keep it coming. Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2014
  8. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    @EliodA will do. I'm never too old to learn. Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2014
  9. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    That was said firmly tongue in cheek...
     
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  10. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    @EliodA no worries, mate. [​IMG]

    BTW, my new Neo SC in jet blue above, is my last solid SC for now. I promise. I have definitely heeded your earlier advice and am now moving onto textured and subtle patterned (unlike my vintage floral ties!) SC and suit fabrics now.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2014
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  11. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Re: those floral ties

    - as with any bold ties, 3 piece suits work wonders, reducing the shown surface, toning down the color or pattern

    - casual Tira like fits. Cotton/linen. Unstructured

    - light colored summer wedding type suits

    - in theory, solid suits with solid shirts, to be safe. White linen or squareless. But I'm not a fan.

    In general not a fan of such ties, but if one were to wear them, those wold be the directions I'd council.
     
  12. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    My partner loves me having gone to SF, though partially because now we have lots of ties and cufflinks and pockets squares to share. I guess I'm at young enough an age where I don't worry about looking old and if anything shedding some youth is good. Then again Noodles doesn't look old either so I'd be surprised it's that problem.

    My partner has a problem with me wanting to get a more aggressive pinstripey more masculine double breasated look though, thinks it doesn't suit me. Might be right idk.
     
  13. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    Duly noted. Thanks for taking the time to offer your advice. Much appreciated. Cheers Clags.
     
  14. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    @Isolation ,
    - I just had an amusing vision of you in 10-20 years time -- now a SF veteran old timer -- defending your vintage chukka boots, neat ties and classic Huntsman style cuts to the next generation of SF members, who take you to task for not dressing in the SF-approved manner. [​IMG]
    - There's nothing new under the sun! Everything is waves and cycles, man. The Chinese know that already, better than most.
    - Anyway, this old fart (me) is trying his best to update his knowledge and get up to spend quickly. SF is a great help.


    EDIT:
    - Iso, you do look good in solids. For example, your new DB in mid blue, nice! Again, its the "high contrast" appearance thing again, which I share too.
    - Ease your way into textures and patterns
    carefully (go subtle at first) and be prepared to reverse out if it ain't happening for you.
    - Get the basics nailed first, before venturing on into uncharted territory. And, do listen to your partner too, as to what's flattering on you or not.


    MOD: apologies for not using multi.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2014
  15. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Last edited: Oct 22, 2014
  16. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    - Yeah, birdseye is the sort of subtle textured and/or patterned fabric that you should look at now. I am at a similar stage with my wardrobe refresh too -- thanks to a nudge from @EliodA -- and birdseye is on my fabric shortlist too.
    - Alas, like yourself, I'm still wrestling with fit issues with my HK tailor too. Sigh.
    - Blazer suit is definitely the way to go for a more versatile travel friendly wardrobe or for those on a tight budget. But, you may get flamed by the purists.
    - I will check out your fabrics and respond later. Also, I think you should check out
    @Pliny 's new gun club check jacket fabric, I think it would be an ideal muted toned jacket for hight contrast types like us.
    - Also, as a hip young man, you may be able to rock a black and white sheperd's check jacket too, which is becoming fashionable -- again. Just my 2 cents worth.


    EDIT:
    - Wow, hard choice Iso. Both the worsted and birdseye dark chocolate coloured fabrics are very nice indeed. You have a good eye for nice fabrics. Either one would look great on you, me thinks.
    - If you're already well served for solids, then give the birdseye a try. I expect you may even inspire me to follow your lead. Good luck with your planned new commission.
    - But for heaven's sake, get you existing custom made fit issues nailed down first. Otherwise, just compounding your woes, man. Like you, I speak from experience.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2014
  17. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    The blind should not be leading the blind. Read some posts of Vox about country/city, read the good taste thread, and there are plenty of other old threads that are really good.

    Isn't it about time that we make a thread with links to all the other threads, so we can refer people to them? Maybe something for the moderators, with help from others?

    As bad as reddit MFA is, they do have a sidebar with all the relevant guides for newbies.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2014
    3 people like this.
  18. losrockets

    losrockets Senior member

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    @Isolation I personally wouldn't use the worsted as separates. They both IMO would look a lot like orphans from a suit, the birdseye less so because of its pattern, though this is particularly subtle one. Maybe a worsted or a woolen flannel or something with a little more textural interest? It just comes off a little too flat to me, something I associate with suits.
     
    2 people like this.
  19. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Yeah, I think a 'best of CM' thread with links to relevant threads should be a sticky!
     
  20. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Don't get a Birdseye blazer suit. It's too much of a suiting fabric. A blazer suit works best with a more textured fabric, such as a flannel. Don't forget patch pockets are essential for this, and the buttons shouldn't be too suity. Swelled edges would help as well.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2014

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