Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    This conversation popped into my head as I was running this morning, and it occurred to me that the classic proportions for tailored clothing were developed at a time when men were most certainly not 6'2" and when muscles were found on laborers, not men who wore suits daily.
     
  2. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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  3. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    But it's wrong. I will try to elaborate soon.
     
  4. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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  5. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    It depends on what one means by the time when “the classic proportions for tailored clothing were developed.” Certainly the English tailoring of the latter half of the 19th century was strongly influenced by a military/equestrian look; I don’t think it would be accurate to say that none of its patrons were muscular. The officer corps was largely made up of aristocrats (since commissions were for sale, but not to just anyone) and military service in the corps ran in families. Male members of the royal family often held genuine military appointments, and the landed gentry followed suit. Many of those guys were pretty fit. Even the morning coat takes its name from the morning exercise appropriate to a gentleman: riding.

    So far as military tradition goes, things were similar in the German-speaking world, but not in the French, of course.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Didn't the suit stem from the military? In which case, I'd expect a more developed musculature than your average fellow, though less so than your average laborer.
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2014
  7. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Yes, to some extent.

    I also don't see "narrow shoulders" as being part of the ideal, at least not if one is talking about English tailoring of the late 19th or early 20th. Quite the contrary, to be honest.

    One can tell something, I think, of the ideals in question by looking at what the tricks of tailoring were intended to achieve. By the end of WWI, my impression is that they often aimed at amplifying both the shoulders and the chest, which is to say aimed at achieving the illusion of a more "soldierly" look. (Things changed drastically in the 1920s, of course.)

    It's not inconsequential that much of the "classic style" was codified when Britain was at the height of its imperial period. It took a thoroughgoing national commitment to militarization to acquire and keep (for awhile) an empire of near global proportions. Pride in the military was very much a core component of British national identity.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2014
  8. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Senior member

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    Personally, it's all about the the shoulder circumference to waist ratio — approach Φ and you're close to ideal proportions in my book
     
  9. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    To be clear, my description did not include narrow shoulders. Also, what we would call muscular today is far more jacked than your typical soldier of 100 years ago.
     
  10. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Indeed. But that claim got added to the mix by someone else.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  11. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    Yes! I thut suits derived from military uniforms.
     
  12. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Im sexy.

    /convo
     
  13. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Among other things (morning and frock coats, and riding coats). Probably more accurate to say that the two co-evolved.
    "Do you know, you in your natty two-button pinstripe, that you are wearing a sawn-off riding coat?"

    —Hardy Amies, The Englishman’s Suit, Introduction.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  14. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Are u drunk posting?
     
  15. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Noap. Im just a man of the truth.
     

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