Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,120
    Likes Received:
    19,523
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
    This conversation popped into my head as I was running this morning, and it occurred to me that the classic proportions for tailored clothing were developed at a time when men were most certainly not 6'2" and when muscles were found on laborers, not men who wore suits daily.
     


  2. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

    Messages:
    2,834
    Likes Received:
    1,011
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2011
    Location:
    Dallas, TX


  3. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,379
    Likes Received:
    4,581
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    But it's wrong. I will try to elaborate soon.
     


  4. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

    Messages:
    2,834
    Likes Received:
    1,011
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2011
    Location:
    Dallas, TX


  5. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,947
    Likes Received:
    4,268
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2013
    It depends on what one means by the time when “the classic proportions for tailored clothing were developed.” Certainly the English tailoring of the latter half of the 19th century was strongly influenced by a military/equestrian look; I don’t think it would be accurate to say that none of its patrons were muscular. The officer corps was largely made up of aristocrats (since commissions were for sale, but not to just anyone) and military service in the corps ran in families. Male members of the royal family often held genuine military appointments, and the landed gentry followed suit. Many of those guys were pretty fit. Even the morning coat takes its name from the morning exercise appropriate to a gentleman: riding.

    So far as military tradition goes, things were similar in the German-speaking world, but not in the French, of course.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     


  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,115
    Likes Received:
    21,606
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    Didn't the suit stem from the military? In which case, I'd expect a more developed musculature than your average fellow, though less so than your average laborer.
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2014


  7. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,947
    Likes Received:
    4,268
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2013
    Yes, to some extent.

    I also don't see "narrow shoulders" as being part of the ideal, at least not if one is talking about English tailoring of the late 19th or early 20th. Quite the contrary, to be honest.

    One can tell something, I think, of the ideals in question by looking at what the tricks of tailoring were intended to achieve. By the end of WWI, my impression is that they often aimed at amplifying both the shoulders and the chest, which is to say aimed at achieving the illusion of a more "soldierly" look. (Things changed drastically in the 1920s, of course.)

    It's not inconsequential that much of the "classic style" was codified when Britain was at the height of its imperial period. It took a thoroughgoing national commitment to militarization to acquire and keep (for awhile) an empire of near global proportions. Pride in the military was very much a core component of British national identity.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2014


  8. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Senior member

    Messages:
    1,251
    Likes Received:
    488
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2013
    Location:
    Maryland
    Personally, it's all about the the shoulder circumference to waist ratio — approach Φ and you're close to ideal proportions in my book
     


  9. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,120
    Likes Received:
    19,523
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
    To be clear, my description did not include narrow shoulders. Also, what we would call muscular today is far more jacked than your typical soldier of 100 years ago.
     


  10. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,947
    Likes Received:
    4,268
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2013
    Indeed. But that claim got added to the mix by someone else.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     


  11. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

    Messages:
    3,379
    Likes Received:
    2,998
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2014
    Yes! I thut suits derived from military uniforms.
     


  12. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    69,067
    Likes Received:
    31,233
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Colorado Rocky Mountains
    Im sexy.

    /convo
     


  13. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,947
    Likes Received:
    4,268
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2013
    Among other things (morning and frock coats, and riding coats). Probably more accurate to say that the two co-evolved.
    "Do you know, you in your natty two-button pinstripe, that you are wearing a sawn-off riding coat?"

    —Hardy Amies, The Englishman’s Suit, Introduction.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     


  14. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,747
    Likes Received:
    2,331
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    

    Are u drunk posting?
     


  15. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    69,067
    Likes Received:
    31,233
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Colorado Rocky Mountains
    Noap. Im just a man of the truth.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by