1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 10: A full set of Aesop's Fables pocket squares from Vanda Fine Clothing

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 10th auction of the year is for a full set of Aesop's Fable's pocket squares from Vanda Fine Clothing. Please bid often and generously here

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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Distinguished Member

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    I think the charge is due to all the handwork involved. I believe the jacket is taken across the ocean by hand in a row boat and then walked to your doorstep.
     


  2. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Distinguished Member

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    It better be an Italian boat with vintage oars and unpadded seats, made from all natural materials and rowed by an elderly gentleman who has been doing this since he was 15.

    But yeah, I ain't paying no 260 for shipping.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014


  3. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    That's not lots of handwork shipping, it's F*ck you shipping.

    MF, you need a NYC proxy.
     


  4. V1KTA222

    V1KTA222 Senior Member

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    Thanks everyone for your thoughts. It's helping me learn a great deal - I think I am beginning to understand the cut not being right for me. At the moment, my body is a little pear shaped and I should find jackets that don't accentuate this (and of course, continue working out!).

    The navy suit is a London cut from suit supply. I may be overvaluing the eidos since it's quality is head and shoulders above suit supply, but I was able to get it at close to suit supply pricing. Otherwise, it is well beyond my current means. As an experiment I may try to go back to Bloomingdales and try on a size up in the eidos and see how it fits, barring it hasn't been sold.
     


  5. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    You want to go a size down if anything, not up. I'm still in favor of the Eidos suit, L, over the Eidos R sports coat for reasons I noted above. Nip the waist and it should look quite good to everyone outside of SF and to most within it..
     


  6. Celadon

    Celadon Senior Member

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    Cautiously wondering if anybody here might be able to take a (good-natured) guess at a distinction in SuitSupply's terminology:

    What is the difference between a "coat" and an "overcoat"?

    Is one supposed to be thicker and warmer than the other?

    This is what they call an "overcoat":

    [​IMG]


    This, on the other hand, is a "coat":

    [​IMG]


    Despite the different-looking lapels and the presence of a breast pocket in the latter, SuitSupply consider these particular two examples to be of the same "fit" (Moore). The length seems to be the same. Most "overcoats" seem to lack a breast pocket, but one of them, a brown and scarily hairy-looking thing made from Alpaca, has one, so that is clearly not it.
     


  7. kulata

    kulata Distinguished Member

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    Actually sizing up to get more shoulder width and jacket length. But for all practical purposes, as you stated, the current suit/jacket is fine, just nip the waist and enjoy your fully canvassed eidos suit/jacket. The real world is not a 24 hour SF selfie.
     


  8. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Distinguished Member

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    I think an overcoat is meant to be worn over a suit, while a normal coat isn't. But does it really matter what they call it? Try both on and get the one you like best. I like their navy herringbone wool/cashmere, camel and casentino coats much better btw, although I wish they were longer. I'd swap out the buttons on the grey one as well. Luxire could probably make you one for around the same price.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014


  9. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Agreed

    On the jacket size up wrt to what you noted but down wrt the chest. I think the long is what he needs wrt hips. Try both.

    I bet if he takes the waist in on the charcoal suit, pairs with the right accessories, he will get 20+ thumbs in WAYWRN, which is to say even most of SFers will be happy with it.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014


  10. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Distinguished Member

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    Sure man, next time you're here or I'm in B-more, we can totally get our grub on.
     


  11. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Distinguished Member

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    Well, just bought this Derek Rose wool dressing gown, so no Eidos for me. I've always wanted to have a nice dressing gown, and now I finally have an apartment that's big enough to actually wear one.

    [​IMG]
     


  12. jungleroller

    jungleroller Distinguished Member

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    I need me some camel overcoat in my life. I was thinking double breased but that SS one is pretty nice.
     


  13. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Distinguished Member

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    ^ Huh? Every single SS overcoat posted on this page is double-breasted as far as I can tell.
     


  14. AJL

    AJL Distinguished Member

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    Fellow Noodlers,

    I'd like to shift this conversation for a moment to a topic I'm sure you'll all agree is worthy of your consideration: the ongoing saga of my Buttero's in relation to fit and orthotic inserts.

    To catch those of you up who have not followed closely, I have had an issue with regards to compression or tightness in the forefoot, accompanied by the unpleasant sensation of my feet being thrust forward, scrunching my toes against the front of the shoe. Walking downhill has been a most unpleasant experience, as you might imagine. To roll the tape back for a moment: I wear custom orthotics, essentially hard plastic inserts molded to my foot that run from the heel to just before the ball of my foot.

    The rest of the story: long version
    Back to present: in a moment of razor-sharp clarity, it dawned on me that the reason my toes were getting scrunched along with the feeling of always being propelled forward was all due to the orthotics. If I removed them, presto! instant easing of all pressure up front. The downside, naturally is that my feet were no longer supported, dare I say coddled, in a manner to which they'd become accustomed.

    What to do, what to do? I pondered long and hard, then i did this: removed the hard leather factory insole and replaced it with an insole from an athletic shoe that was more compliant, allowing the orthotics to settle back in the heel a bit, thus relieving some of the pressure up front. Better.

    Ah, you say, is that it, end of story, d-u-n dun? Not so fast my smooth talking, straight walking fellow sartorialists.

    The results were better, but not the best, or at least, not as good as I thought they could be. Overcome by yet another "Eureka" moment I did this: removed the athletic insole and --wait for it--replaced only the orthotic! The results were astounding: A+ comfort accompanied by a general feeling of smug satisfaction. I had conquered the beast of discomfort, laid it low, made it my bitch. I stood on top of the mountain and surveyed all that lay before me. Confidently I descended to the valley below, in long, comfortable strides, to claim all that was rightfully mine, or so I thought.

    Just as I prepared to descend I was momentarily frozen by a twinge of doubt: what if there was something more to the removal of said insole, what if it played a more critical role beyond merely comfort? Perhaps it served another purpose, perhaps it was also there to wick away perspiration, to leave our lowest appendages crisp and dry, while preventing the shoe itself from giving off an unholy stench, emanating from the very depths of hell?

    Worn as described for several hours today, with no apparent issues. What say you, Wizards of Wool, Lions of Linen, Conquerers of Cotton? Does this seem like a sound idea, or one sprung from the Halls of Bedlam?



    Short version :
    So, here's what I did:
    I took out the hard leather insert, and replaced only the plastic orthotic, sitting atop the spongy rubber "sub"insole. Cool, or not? will my feet sweat, causing the shoes to stink to holy hell and beyond? Worn for several hrs already today, and no issues I've noticed. What say you, Wizards of Wool, Lions of Linen, Kings of Cotton? Yea or nay?

    Thanks for your consideration, I hope you feel your time here was well spent.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014


  15. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Can.

    Not.

    Wait.

    ---

    Also, I love outerwear. I have more coats than suits or SCs.
     


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