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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Gunclub and multi-thread plaids and checks are quite easy to pair actually. Or maybe I'm just lazy. Besides going for the SF darling of grey pants in all situations, I feel that navy trousers (especially cotton) play that role for cool color jackets/shirts (particularly anything in the grey tones). Brown cotton pants are also an easy go-to choice for anything in warm colors.

    But, coming back to checks, the easiest is to look at the colors of the threads in the check and simply use trousers in any of those colors + derivations of those in lighter and darker tinges. Some of those choices may be more adventurous than other but nearly all will work from an aesthetic perspective. Only thing I would stay away from in that construct would be trousers in the same color as the dominant thread of the check - so here for example, do not wear with the same tinge of beige as the dominant beige in the coat. But a darker or lighter would be fine. Grey and brown, as represented in the check, would be great matches too - in a range of shades.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014


  2. V1KTA222

    V1KTA222 Senior Member

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    Thanks very much for your feedback. It's interesting you mention the chest fullness because it's honestly something I cannot see yet, but the eidos jackets definitely feel less roomy than the navy suit jacket. The boxiness and lack of shape, though, are now apparent to me and I'll have to decide if I can live with the imperfection at this point in my sartorial learning.

    If you wouldn't mind clarifying one point for me - when you say the cut is wrong, do you mean generally this suit does not fit my body type, or is it just too small and sizing up might fix some of the problem in the chest (if not create a new problem of not fitting in the shoulders).
     


  3. stormin1

    stormin1 Well-Known Member

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    I've had a few things made at SuitShop in Melbourne, and Matt and I agreed that my shoulders would benefit from a shoulder without padding (Sorry for the confusion - this is what I mean by a natural shoulder, and may be mistaken when doing so). However, I'm told that SuitShop isn't able to make suits/jackets without padding yet, as the factory isn't up to scratch in that regard.
     


  4. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Distinguished Member

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    I don't think it fits your body type that well. Taking in the waist my help though. I've posted this before, but here's my jacket in the same cut, for comparison:


    [​IMG]
     


  5. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Mkt: by "full" do you mean that the chest looks a bit big for him, too roomy and in that way a bit "flat"? I can see that.

    I also suspect that this would work fine for the OP in the real world if he can get a bit more shaping in the waist. There may be cuts that are more flattering, though, and perhaps he should bide his time?

    OP where's the navy suit from? Pic of jacket in better light, 42R?
     


  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    MF
    It could be that he's a 40 or 41L in that cut. I prefer the length in the eidos suit. You can see the difference in how you two fill out the chest. I'm surprise that your waist looks more suppressed but perhaps that's an artifact of still photo and/or how you fill out the chest?
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014


  7. SeaJen

    SeaJen Distinguished Member

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    I read @sugarbutchs comment as "keep the hell away" from the Eidos jackets, and agreed whole-heartedly. To find that he actually meant keep them, emphatically, has me confused. I'm with @mktitsworth on this one.
     


  8. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    This last set of exchanges is going to confuse the OP who came for advice. I don't see why a very negative reaction is warranted. He got a good deal on a well made jacket with excellent credential and there are positive aspects if the jacket

    Take the 42L from what we can see L flatters more than R at hips)

    The shoulders are clean
    The length is good
    The stance is good
    The quarters open enough.
    The lapels lie straight down

    The waist needs some shape and the main issue now is the chest. It could be a bit big for him in the chest (cf MFs damned ejidos jacket :) ).

    It would be good to see side and back shots.

    The advice I'd give him is that it might be too big in chest or at least doesn't flatter and it has no shape in waist. There are limits to how this can be addressed, but will it matter to him in the end outside if this venue? If not then take to tailor and see what can be done and then decide. I think a bit of suppression in waist by a good tailor will do wonders bringing it closer to MFs fit. After that the op should bench press a bit ( see earlier noodles discussion).

    My two cents
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014


  9. kulata

    kulata Distinguished Member

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    42R is the better option. I'd keep the Eidos if I were you and nip it in the waist a little. They fit you well for RTW and the discount helps. The issue that is getting confused is if this is the optimal cut for your body type. I'd say you'd look better with something more structured and extended to balance out your hips like the one you are wearing above the eidos.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014


  10. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Agree with Kulata on an issue not touched upon. The 42L is a better length and it makes a difference to the overall shape. The R accentuates the hips in a not as flattering way (slight pear). On eidos, if on or the other, then on fit alone, go with the 42L.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014


  11. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Distinguished Member

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    Yep, nip it in the waist and spend a couple of months in the gym and you'll see a huge difference. It does look a bit short though, but that might be the angle.
     


  12. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Sup, tits?
     


  13. kulata

    kulata Distinguished Member

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    I think you misunderstood me. The extension I was referring to is in the shoulders but the jacket could use 0.5 inches or so in length but hey this is RTW though, so I am really not bothered with the slightly short length, not a deal breaker for me.


    And I'll repeat my mantra. 10-15 body weight pull ups if you are going to be buying RTW :D
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014


  14. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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  15. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Distinguished Member

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    Wow, Bloomingdales charges $260 for shipping a suit to the UK, not including any customs duties. That's probably the most expensive I've ever seen.
     


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