1. I'd like to announce that animated avatars are now available again. You'll have to reload, but they are once more possible.

    We've been doing a ton of work behind the scenes. The site load speed was already under 1/2 of what Huddler's was, on average, and we installed cloudflare, which means that the site should be even faster. A ton more will go on in the weeks and months to come, and some things will be more visibile, and some less.

    Cheers,

    Fok.

    Dismiss Notice

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,231
    Likes Received:
    2,236
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    

    I go back and forth on this. I get the dinner jacket precedent (1 button is the only correct thing for a SB dinner jacket due to formality / minimalism / etc.), but you could also use this to say that there is a material difference in formality between a suit with cuffed trousers and one sans cuffs. I regard the latter as personal preference, though. Ultimately, the more I think about it, the harder I find it to really think that the existence of a button and buttonhole that never get used down in the crotch area make a jacket less formal. I think I probably could get an odd jacket with 1 button and not be bothered by it (Huntsman has been doing this for a long time).

    All that said, I'll probably start by trying this with a suit, then maybe a navy blazer, and see where it goes from there if I like the experiment. I think less clutter adds more to the sleekness of a garment with matching trousers than it would to something that is going to be worn with mid grey flannels anyway.
     
  2. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,231
    Likes Received:
    2,236
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    

    Care to expand on this? Not necessarily disagreeing (I suspect I do but will hold my tongue until I have a 1 button suit), but I'd think an alternate lapel choice would draw more attention than eliminating a superfluous button below the waist. Maybe this goes with the idea of 1 button suits being more formal (don't want to put words in your mouth but that is the first thing I thought of as to why you might think this way).
     
  3. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    15,895
    Likes Received:
    19,198
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
    Single buttons are most commonly seen on dinner jackets, so I understand the association with formality. That said, I don't think that this one element on an otherwise typical suit/jacket will stand out. Some Huntsman coats below; they generally aren't stylistically what I'd want, but the single button looks fine to my eye.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  4. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

    Messages:
    7,388
    Likes Received:
    4,742
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2012
    I don't think a single button is inherently more formal just because it's like a dinner jacket: somehow, anything that's a little unorthodox, I think, lowers the formality just a touch. Just as I saw someone argue, with some credibility I think, that a wholecut shoe is less formal than an oxford because of its dandyness, I think the more dramatic lines of a single button are every so slightly flamboyant - even more so with a peak lapel.

    Which is not a bad thing. And those Huntsman jackets look magnificent.
     
  5. kulata

    kulata Senior member

    Messages:
    2,834
    Likes Received:
    4,790
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2008
    
    Single button suits have this clean and minimalist look that comes across as too sleek. I feel it is more natural with the dramatic look of a peak lapel but it may just all be in my head. It should also be avoided at all cost if you have any slight appearance of a gut (Maybe that's why I really hate them).
     
  6. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    15,895
    Likes Received:
    19,198
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
    

    :confused: What about another button and buttonhole on the jacket is slimming?
     
  7. kulata

    kulata Senior member

    Messages:
    2,834
    Likes Received:
    4,790
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2008
    
    Visual break with the additional buttons Vs. Clean lines. Clean lines look slimming and also if you look at the huntsman cut the quarters start to open from the button, just add a little protrusion and it looks bad.

    Like I said it could all just be in my head unless someone else shares my opinion.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2014
  8. AJL

    AJL Senior member

    Messages:
    2,656
    Likes Received:
    764
    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2004
    Interesting, all this discussion over the presence or absence of a superfluous button or two. I suppose the one button suit is the only purely functional one, button-wise. The 3r2 has a top button that is rarely if ever seen, and a buttonhole that sometimes appears on the lapel, sometimes it is behind it and and sometimes it is just under it, with the top button being just barely visible under the roll of the lapel (I have all 3 variations, though perhaps the one where the button is unseen and the buttonhole on the lapel is visible is the only true 3r2?). The 2 button will have a single superfluous button below. So essentially, all three styles can have the same lines, lapel roll, etc., with only the visual absence or presence of buttons/holes to distinguish between them?
     
  9. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    68,895
    Likes Received:
    31,016
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    Pretty much I think.

    In any case, those Huntsman jackets are fantastic.
     
  10. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,018
    Likes Received:
    20,945
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
  11. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    15,895
    Likes Received:
    19,198
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
    Hmmm. Maybe the striped gren, but no use for the rest.
     
  12. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Dubiously Honored Moderator

    Messages:
    11,021
    Likes Received:
    17,806
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2009
    Location:
    English Flower Garden
  13. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,018
    Likes Received:
    20,945
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    You guys guess which tie I snagged?
     
  14. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,943
    Likes Received:
    4,262
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2013
    I like the single-button look just fine, but not because I object to non-functional design elements. The suit coat and sport coat, like all items of apparel, bear vestigial traces of their evolutionary ancestors (sleeve buttons, the button hole on the lapel now reduced to holding a boutonnière and that but rarely, etc.). It’s part of the charm of the thing.

    I agree that the one-button Huntsman jackets are quite beautiful. You’ll recall that I posted a photo of one upthread some time ago which prompted some discussion along the lines of the current one.

    (Mimo's point about departures from the familiar (he used the term 'orthodoxy') tending to make something look more dandyish captures something important about the relevant psychology, I think.)

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  15. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,943
    Likes Received:
    4,262
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2013
    The Shantung?

    Cheers,

    Ac
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by