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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Same buttoning point as a 2 button minus the bottom button.
     
  2. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Not questioning your preference, but this doesn't make any sense. Why is the third button any more superfluous than the unused second button?
     
  3. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    I suppose it isn't. It's more that I don't see how adding an extra button and buttonhole that just sit unused on one's lapel adds to elegance. I probably still also believe that the whole one button suit makes a statement due to its uniqueness and that could have something to do with why I am more okay with a single superfluous button on a 2 button suit. I may be more accepting of the whole bottom button left undone thing due to habit (though I see how it would also be superfluous).

    This is one reason I am considering getting jackets made with one button going forward. If the button stance, cut and everything else are basically the same, I'm growing more and more skeptical that most people will notice or care that the jacket has only one button.
     
  4. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Well that's rather my point - not really hating on the 3r2, just noting that it seems to be such a default in current iGent preference.

    If I have any issue with the 3r2 it's not the unused button - if it were all about usefulness we'd be walking around in bodystockings and Crocs. Eww. I'm sorry I even said that now.

    Anyway, no, for me it's that it changes the shape of the lapel with that big fat roll at the bottom. I don't hate it, but it looks rather casual to me, and perhaps even somewhat affected. Says the guy who wears coloured socks and spectator shoes. But you know what I mean, probably.

    There's no right or wrong on this one, just that the style seems to have gone from popular to essential in SFland.

    I think this is an interesting idea, especially for an odd jacket. Presumably you'd taper the quarter gradually from the single button hole?

    I forget who it was, but someone a while back had a tan suit made with a single button, and it looked incredibly slick and clean. Very flattering to the silhouette, which I suppose it's why it works for a dinner suit, morning coat, etc. I do think that bit of extra drama in the lines of a lounge suit will actually make it less formal instead, but that's no reason not to like it. I look forward to pictures, maybe I'll try too.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2014
  5. Pingson

    Pingson Senior member

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    Isn't that the answer though? If there is one thing SF is obsessed about its lapel roll, the more the better......
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2014
  6. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    archibaldleach, I would also get a single button for any MTM/bespoke jackets. I'm a relatively short man, and I think that more open fronts are more flattering. With a single button, the sweep of the fronts can begin a bit higher up and be executed more gracefully.
     
  7. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    Man I really like that Formosa. I'm not a suit guy but this may convert me. Only downside to it is the Fresco wool seems to be a bit itchy in the unlined area of the pants. Other than that I felt like a million bucks in that thing. One other thing I realized is I always keep my wallet and phone in my front pockets (sciatic nerve issue) and I think that was accentuating my big hips in some of my earlier fit pics. The formosa pants are pretty tight so I left everything out of the pockets for those pics, and all future pics. Next time I wear it I'll try and get better pics, yesterday I had out of the office appointments all day pretty much. Thanks for the kind words yesterday. If I can afford another one down the road I'd like to get a charcoal one. It'll be awhile though lol.

    Related to the conversation here, I had never heard or seen 3r2 prior to coming here and didn't understand the point of it much. I will say it seems to me that it helps the lapel roll but maybe I'm mistaken. Is there anyone who takes a 3r2 and wears it as a 3 button? Is the original intent of it to have it be both options?
     
  8. Apollotrader

    Apollotrader Senior member

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    You may as well debate about why a rep tie has reps.
     
  9. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Of your pants? If so, try carrying these items in the pockets of your jacket. So much more functional...
     
  10. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    This. I never have anything in my pant pockets. That's what the jackets for.
     
  11. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    yeah...I'm gettin there. :embar:
     
  12. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    I agree. The danger there is though, that RTW looking perfect on body A =/= looking perfect on body B. I have the jacket on order thanks to MF, and the measurements I was given are dead on for me, but I am at most cautiously optimistic that it will look as good on me as it does on him.


    I remember reading this theory expounded upon by Mr. Barbera, but I forget the whole explanation. It made sense when I read it, I do remember that much. In any case, while I do love a 3r2, it does irk me when the roll is such that the 3rd button is holding things up. I prefer when the roll goes right over to the button so its almost like its not even there. I have actually removed the top button on some jackets because I felt they were making the roll less nice.


    Yup.

    ---

    I think that both the Liverano and the Eidos Lorenzo look much better when unbuttoned, and I think that the cut in general looks best on Ethan's broader frame. Though Nick P looks pretty damn good in his. Lastly, I am sure it looks better on Greg than that pic implies. Mirror selfies are never trustworthy.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2014
  13. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Sugarbutch, I think that makes a lot of sense (also speaking as a somewhat short guy). I already have an acceptable (not great) SB navy suit (BB Regent OTR), but figure I will try the 1 button experiment with its replacement. Thinking of doing this as my first Steed bespoke (navy SB is a staple and I don't think 1 button is so radical a departure that I wouldn't wear it).
     
  14. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Don't you guys think that a single button suit is more formal than 2 or 3 buttons?
    As such, choosing a single button for a SC would seem an oxymoron to me. What do you think?
     
  15. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    IMO single button suits only look good if they have peak lapels.
     

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