Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,050
    Likes Received:
    21,136
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    Yah, NickP, your pictures were enough to settle any debate. Your presence was a few hours too late ;)
     


  2. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,365
    Likes Received:
    4,552
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    There are endless debates on what exactly are the characteristics of the Neapolitan jacket, but I think it's fair to say that they do tend to have wider lapels. Here's the window of the Attolini shop in Naples a couple of months ago:

    [​IMG]

    Formosa:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2014


  3. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

    Messages:
    7,439
    Likes Received:
    4,790
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2012
    Is anyone else finding the prevalence of the 3r2 button arrangement rather tiresome these days? Perhaps it's just me being a young dinosaur as usual...

    This style of gorge, lapel and length is, however, a delight to me - especially in the face of the Bieberesque skinny-lapelled hipster bumfreezers of contemporary fashion emporia.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2014


  4. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,899
    Likes Received:
    4,746
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    Not really, if I recall correctly the only appropriate amount of buttons is one or three. I think I read it in an article on Huntsman. So a 3 roll 2 has the right amount of buttons, but the look of a 2.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2014


  5. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

    Messages:
    7,439
    Likes Received:
    4,790
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2012
    But it doesn't look like a two. The way the lower lapel bulges makes it look like an oddly-pressed three. Anyway, it's a "thing", it's popular in current iGentry and there's nothing wrong with it. I'm just surprised at how much it appears to have become a standard.
     


  6. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

    Messages:
    3,762
    Likes Received:
    6,784
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    Since we're talking about characteristics of the Neapolitan jacket, the 3r2 button arrangement is very much one of those characteristics. And always has been, regardless of whether it is a current prevalence.
     


  7. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

    Messages:
    9,043
    Likes Received:
    11,308
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    In my opinion, something just doesn't look right about a 3.5"+ lapel and a two-button. To me, nothing looks better than the Neapolitan cut 3r2.
     


  8. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,365
    Likes Received:
    4,552
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    The 3r2 has a very long history. It's particularly popular now but not like it's some newfangled detail the kids made up.
     


  9. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Dubiously Honored Moderator

    Messages:
    11,202
    Likes Received:
    18,850
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2009
    Location:
    English Flower Garden


  10. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,255
    Likes Received:
    13,004
    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2011
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Yup, it's been around since the early 1900's (perhaps earlier?). Favoured by both American trads and Italians (and of course, iGentry).
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2014


  11. AJL

    AJL Senior member

    Messages:
    2,697
    Likes Received:
    796
    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2004
    

    Looks like it's you against the SF world on this one, mimo (also a fan of 3r2).
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2014


  12. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,264
    Likes Received:
    2,251
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    

    Personally, I've never cared for it. If the lapel is rolling to the second button anyway, then the top button just seems kind of superfluous to me. Just seems like a 2 button suit with a third button on top for show. Really hard for me to imagine how this makes the suit in any way more elegant than a normal 2 button suit.
     


  13. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,264
    Likes Received:
    2,251
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    ^ In the interest of full disclosure, I am seriously considering getting every suit and odd jacket I order from now on with only one button. I figure if I don't like it, I can always have additional buttons / buttonholes put in.
     


  14. AJL

    AJL Senior member

    Messages:
    2,697
    Likes Received:
    796
    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2004
    

    Isn't there a different buttoning point for a single button jacket, therefore, wouldn't the buttoning point be off if you added a 2nd one? Never owned a single button jacket, so just a guess.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2014


  15. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,264
    Likes Received:
    2,251
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    

    The button that is actually being used, whether it be in a 3r2, 2 button or 1 button should be at pretty similar points I believe to preserve the fit and lines of the jacket. I may use a slightly lower buttoning point for a 1 button jacket, but we're probably talking about 0.5 inches or so. I can't imagine the difference being that dramatic.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by