Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Compare those two pics and see the genius of the Liverano cut: from lapels through to the quarters/front/skirt (whatever you want to call them) you see one continuous arc. The Eidos, in contrast, due to its lower buttoning point (too low, IMHO) seems to 'sag' a bit. Makes for a somewhat 'tired' look compared to the more 'livelier' looking Liverano (apologies for the clumsy vocabulary). All just personal opinion of course...
     
  2. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    Well the Eidos jacket is RTW, and the Liverano & Liverano bespoke. Apples and oranges
     
  3. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Independent of whom it is cut for, it looks like the Liverano symmetry is both horizontal and vertical, whereas the Eidos is only vertical. I think those open quarters require both. The Eidos looks quite good, but I do think I higher buttoning point would have made it truly excellent
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2014
  4. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    I'm afraid you missed my point, it's not about RTW vs. bespoke. It's the overall silhouette. But perhaps I wasn't really clear. Please, see @Claghorn 's post above.
     
  5. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    The tipo has plenty of room in the chest, probably the same as the Lorenzo. I wouldn't call it drape, but there is some extra material, creating a very nice chest shape. The chest is not as swelled as my Sartoria Partenopea suits, but that might be a bit too dramatic for a sportcoat. I prefer more extended and pleated shoulder than the tipo, simply because of the increased range of movement and comfort. The Lorenzo would probably look stunning as a navy suit.

    Having said all that, the Tipo is a very clean cut, and creates a powerful and masculine silhouette, without being too much in your face. I've gotten loads of compliments on all of my Eidos items in the tipo cut. They usually go something like this: I don't know what it is, but that jacket looks very good on you.

    *written while standing in line for the bathroom at a bar, so excuse any typos.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2014
  6. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    I'll disagree with Claghorn's premise and will say it is always somewhat dependent on who it's cut for. Different body types will fill the same cut differently; I think that goes without saying.
    [​IMG]
    While I do agree there seems to be some what you called "sag" with the jacket on gdl, I don't see it here.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2014
  7. losrockets

    losrockets Senior member

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    MF: Masculine is exactly the word that comes to mind when I think of the Tipo fit on you. Going to have to pick one up soon.
    @jaywhyy what am I looking at in your picture?
     
  8. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    True for any jacket, which shouldn't stop us from weighing one cut against the other. The "problem" (I use the term loosely as it's still a lovely jacket and a lovely cut) is the the open quarters seemed very rushed. There is no grand arc from the buttoning point as you see in the Liverano. Symmetry is appealing. Plain and simple. The Liverano cut achieves that (or at least, is capable of doing so) whereas the Eidos cut only hints at the possibility. And that may be worse than had it had a less idiosyncratic cut, because then our minds wouldn't be looking for the symmetry. Though of course there will be some body types that will look better in Eidos than in Liverano (fit controlled for)

    On the flip side, it is an homage and not mimicry. It shouldn't necessarily be same.

    Thoughts? @NickPollica
     
  9. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    I don't think so. The cuts are not too indifferent when it comes to how they appear on an axis. I think the eidos cut simply doesn't work for Greg, he doesn't have enough drop between his shoulders and hips and the buttoning point and quarters makes it worse coz it somehow accentuates his hips. Compare this with the ones worn by Nick below:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yeah, those look great. I wonder if the angle on gdl's makes the buttoning point appear lower.
     
  11. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Momkeyface...doing good with his steals. I'm going to be feeling that check jacket for a while. :)

    I agree with Elio about putting too much into one picture. As we all know two different shots can make a jacket appear heavenly then merely ordinary (which isn't happening here of course!). The quarters look different in the two buttoned pics, of Greg and Antonio. They might seem less open in the last pic but hard to tell. Unbuttoned on Greg, it looks great.

    I quite like the "c" in the eidos. Ok not as smooth perhaps as the liverano but at probably a quarter of the price, liverano accessible to mere mortals perhaps. Caveats from above again.

    Btw there were other differences between the two too. I'm still torn on 4 inch lapels. The Formosa look fantastic on those who have modeled it here especially that montage of Dirnelli where the superiority of
    The Formosa fit
    On him is so stark.

    I understand proportions as an argument but 4 inches is on one side of the continuum and I worry whether I will feel good About it in four years time.

    Can someone make the proportion argument clearly.. (Worry: you're not wearing 3.75-4 inch ties right? That said the thinner ties look fine on Antonio against Lorenzo).

    Or again is a wide lapel a traditional element of Napoli tailoring?
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2014
  12. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Proportionality argument: bigger head, wider lapels. Broader shoulders, wider lapels. Longer torso, wider lapels. Ordered in terms of priority.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2014
  13. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I was going to argue that larger torso and taller but not thin men should go for it. So agreement there. The first one seems to me slightly odd. But it depend on what is meant by "bigger". Small heads in size should avoid but consider long versus wide faces, vertical versus horizontal. Then I suspect the claim would be for long with wide lapels . Here the issue is not complementing but compensating or balance. Consider will a 8cm blade be balanced on the 4 inch lapel, to shift focus downward momentarily to the width if tie?

    That said 3.5 inch lapels will probably do it if 4 does. And 3.5 might be a median that weathers the passing of age contra winds of taste. But also curious about traditional characteristics of regional tailoring as explaining it.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2014
  14. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    You guys realize that you are comparing button stances from two photos where one doesn't have buttonholes cut or buttons even applied (ethan's pic v. greg)? Look at the photo of me wearing the jacket unbuttoned in comparison to the one of Ethan and you'll note that the line of the lapel rolls in essentially the same spot. Our button stance isn't insanely low. Its all about balance and the trouser you wear has a lot to do with that (the lorenzo trouser has a 12" rise to accomodate the more open quarters).

    just a quick response in between diaper changes on a saturday morning...
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2014
  15. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    @Coxsackie Don't get either of them. You don't like the black one, and the burgundy one is too small for your needs. You'll only end up wanting a different one.

    But if you're OK with still needing a briefcase afterwards, and just feeling the discount kop-compulsion that you're unwilling to resist, then get the burgundy one: you like it more, it has better proportions, and it helps justify your buying a bigger one later that you actually like, on purely practical grounds. [/enable]
     

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