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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    Black pennies can also look very good with navy SC...grey trou...blue or white shirt....no tie....very casual...or just about any casual with simple colors....
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2014
  2. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Sure, I think black can look okay in casual fits (especially more streetwearesque stuff), but in that case I feel like there are other boots?

    If anything I'd rather get black suede or something, I think that can look quite neat and have good texture for those kinds of fit, if not that then boots, various kinds of them, give me interesting detail to make it look at home. Heck even monks would be better then. Loafers just have such a preppy feel to them that almost begs to be tan or brown, and doesn't seem to go well with that kind of more urban/street look. Thoughts?

    As for grey trousers, surely then oxblood would be better or at least as good? Seems like an extremely inversatile shoe.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2014
  3. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    On the good news front, I figured how to do a good pointy PS fold. Yesss
     
  4. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    They're good in London. Black shoes are a requirement for many professions, but it doesn't stipulate what type of shoes you have to wear. You see lots of black penny and tassel loafers on casual Fridays, or with guys who wear chinos to work. It's a casual shoe for a business casual outfit, but it still adheres to the black shoes rule.

    I'm actually looking to pick up some black loafers, except I want mine to be navy shell. It still looks like black most of the times, but in a certain light you'll see that flash of navy. Carmina had a beautiful full strap navy shell loafer, and I'm hoping they'll bring it back soon.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2014
  5. Stencil

    Stencil Senior member

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    I think they're not very useful. Black norwegian style loafers strike me as totally weird. I can imagine wearing black tassel loafers with a navy blazer and gray trousers in the evening. But even then, I think black monks or even gusseted slip-ons would be better. Gucci horsebit loafers are not for me, but like white oxfords, they have their own special place.

    I support black suede, especially in monk form. I think that's a very sophisticated, semi casual evening shoe.
     
  6. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I kinda see that, for London, but I kind of just feel like black monks, in suede for instance, beats them out in every way. I actually think my black monks and brown suede monks are my favorite pairs of shoes, though I probably wear my chukkas the most.

    In my mind monks look better than loafers unless you really want a more casual look, in which case it's jarring with black leather anyway. Just seems a bit incongruent, and besides if you want it to be casual it's not like monks don't fill that role just fine, it's casual just not "preppy" the same way (in my mind anyway). In fact I feel like loafers kind of only really make sense when it's sunnier or whatever, not in a place like London.

    Also I just like all the other casual shoe options more.

    Then again I also don't understand why people get loafers in shell, though I think that's more excusable because shell is a specific look that people like.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2014
  7. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    I don't understand the disdain for black loafers. They look perfectly fine with plenty of outfits. The fact that one is not wearing a suit does not and never has mandated that one wear brown shoes. I like brown shoes fine in casual outfits and even with suits when I don't need to be ultraconservative, but black shoes have been around for a long time outside of oxfords and are perfectly fine to wear in any number of settings.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. SamF

    SamF Well-Known Member

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    Right, sorry to take this away from the current discussion. EFV directed me toward this thread when I had a question in WAYWRN, and I've been working my way through it.

    So basically, my query is about how I see things in WAYWRN I like, but I struggle to say why it is I like them, which is what I'm hoping I can be helped with.

    So take for example: http://www.styleforum.net/t/394373/hof-what-are-you-wearing-right-now-part-iv-starting-may-2014/7950

    This from EliodA - hopefully he doesn't mind me using his post as an example. Now I like that fit in general, but in particular what I like is the chest. To my eyes it looks quite generous, particularly toward the underarms, but past that I couldn't really say what it is that makes the chest on that jacket look particularly good to me. I also like the lapel roll, but again, don't know why.

    I would be very grateful for anyone who could educate me.
     
  9. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Plenty of stuff to read on this subject. Google drape or swelled chest and go from there.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Last edited: Oct 4, 2014
    2 people like this.
  11. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Gents, any of you have a wool/silk or cashmere/silk grenadine? I'm curious what difference this makes to the hand, the drape and structure (if at all). Mixes are nice, but I've not handled on of these ties (Berg and Berg had quite a few, and Hober just received a batch, some of these bicolor which also seems like a nice touch).

    Thoughts?
     
  12. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    They can do grenadine with cashmere???,
     
  13. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    As the owner of the garment in question, I have to admit that such drape as there appears to be is the result of this particular suit having been purchased when my body shape was erhmm, somewhat more three dimensional than it is now. Though I've had a tailor take it in as much as possible without ruining the silhouette, it's still a tad on the roomy side. It does indeed have a nicely shaped swelled chest though, which has precisely the flattering effect as described in the Dieworkwear post.
    The lapels are, IMO, the real 'secret' to why this suit looks so good and why it continues to be one of my favourites despite the fact that it's slightly too big: since it's already almost 15 years old, it was made before the ultra high gorge trend that has become so popular with the igentry. As it is, I think it perfectly balances the whole upper body area by having the curves and lines in just the right places. The fact that there is nowhere a straight line to be seen and that all curves are more or less continuous, gentle arches with the buttoning point as their fulcrum, works especially elegant, I think. Hope this explanation helps you a bit in understanding.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2014
    5 people like this.
  14. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's so easy to see when you have such a nice, clean shot of it. And agree that it still looks great. A great investment that still looks spot on 15 years on (even if you became more 2-D [​IMG])
     
    2 people like this.
  15. SamF

    SamF Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, that's very helpful, thanks. On the lapels, now you've mentioned it I can see it, they're very nice.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    I cursed out loud when I saw them beautiful lapels. EliodA is bawhs!
     
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  17. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    That does really good, is it common to get lapels that are concave instead of swell out? I might try to get something like that next time.
     
  18. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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  19. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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