Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.
V - agree to what everyone else said. London L and you should take new pics with your legs more together.
MF - awesome
cox - buy the suit
noodles - cant really judge collar from a selfie like that. your extended and raised picture arms are scrunching everything up.
How would you describe your normal stance and how are your shuolders? Something is throwing the jacket off (or rather the fit of the jacket doesn't jive with your body), I think its your left shoulder or rather that you shoulders are uneven. Besides the lapel bowing the left side of the front of the jacket is lower than the right side.
I think the navy blue London is sufficient. I don't think you need a second suit. My impression is that at these medical conferences the guys wearing suits are either presenting, chairing a session or trying to sell you something.
Now I see why you want the two suits. Basically you wear a suit 3 days in a row a couple times a year and maybe one or two other times. Makes sense. In that case, go for 2 SuitSupply suits. The quality is good enough that you'll be happy to wear them until you can comfortably replace them with bespoke.
I decided not to make too many judgments in the end based on one picture, as you would agree I suspect.
I had the jacket on, stood in front of the mirror, raised my arms, checked to see if it stayed on the collar, moved etc. It didn't feel tight in chest and I did not notice the unevenness at the hem.
Here's a pic of another, same pattern (Epaulet's Weller), lighter weight fabric. You'll notice the jacket seems completely different in many ways, though it is the same cut. Here, the lapels and hem are straight. I think the tweed shot looks more flattering at the chest (swelled a bit more) and oddly, the waist looks aggressively nipped in the tweed! Of course, each jacket will be cut slightly different, but I doubt that the pattern would be so off across jackets (both 38Rs).
I've stuck with the size because the shoulders are spot on. The chest feels fine.
There's a lesson that many of us know and I have to remind myself: jackets are lived in and snapshots can both distort and enhance.
TweedyProf, that jacket is really nice. The colour and texture are unusual and interesting, and I imagine quite versatile.
If you do buy it, you'll need to get the sleeves shortened, left side a little more than right.
I was inspired by this:
To do a variation for F/W in a heavier 13.5 oz weight with this:
The thought being that this will come off in the brown range, go well with mid light gray and tan flannels. Pair with blue shirt and solid navy or gray ties, and with one of the wool ties I posted a few pages back, done. Alas, the lapels will not be like Greg's as much else, but his is a bespoke Formosa, I think.
Cox, you mean the purple, yes? It's $900 unfortunately!
$900? A mere bagatelle.
One thing I've just noticed though, is that the left quarter seems to hang lower than the right. Which is kind of weird.
Maybe go back to the shop with a tape measure and really check the damn thing out carefully. I don't have a tailor's eye, but I note that a tailor (or at least, an industry guy, not sure if Edmorel is a tailor but he seems to know an awful lot) has come on and commented about the jacket being a bit out of kilter. I think that's the one and only issue here. Is the jacket really out of kilter, or was that some funny lens distortion effect or your colostomy bag or some other extrinsic factor?
If you can satisfy yourself that the jacket is well made and sits straight on your body, buy it. My two cents' worth.
I'm sorely tempted by that Raffaele Caruso/Sartoria Parma suit, but I just realised that I actually do have a charcoal grey suit, albeit with a subtle windowpane:
I really don't think I could do better than the above. Maybe I should pass. Save my pennies for B&Tailor.
But Cox, I'm not a surgeon!
Fair point on the hem: I don't think it's the cut, see the other Weller jacket above. But it might be off kilter and I wasn't noticing it. I did check for length and didn't notice it then. Suffice it to say, I'm not buying it, but I agree, would be an interesting addition.
On other matters: did check out Eidos at Carson Street. Very nice though the patterns are too aggressive for me. Hope they will have more solids or lightly patterned options. FYI, the 48 in the Tipo cut from Eidos fit me well as did the 48 Formosa. Button stance was good, not too high. Gorge was rather high, though.
I can't help but be pulled to this (it's not available anymore):
It's a gray on navy ground, I think, with rust overcheck. Here's an Eidos (actually a gun check, but the blurriness makes it similar).
I just don't know if I could wear it. None of my colleagues wear coats and ties, so I usually go for sedate solids. Despite the fustiness of the houndstooth, the overcheck might just be too much...thoughts?
If I were to pair it, light gray or chocolate brown flannels, maybe mid gray though the contrast might disappear. Again solid of faintly patterned ties.
How them collars? Bathroom selfie
Noodles, get your wife to take a picture, full shot waist height. A selfie from the bottom is going to distort collar height .
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