1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 11: Any Three (3) Customized Ties from Vanda Fine Clothing

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 11th auction of the year is for any three customized ties from Vanda Fine Clothing. Please bid often and generously here

    Fok and the Styleforum Team.

    Dismiss Notice
Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

    Messages:
    3,379
    Likes Received:
    2,998
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2014
    :)
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2014


  2. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    69,155
    Likes Received:
    31,363
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Colorado Rocky Mountains
    V - agree to what everyone else said. London L and you should take new pics with your legs more together.

    MF - awesome

    cox - buy the suit

    noodles - cant really judge collar from a selfie like that. your extended and raised picture arms are scrunching everything up.
     


  3. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    25,826
    Likes Received:
    3,432
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    
    How would you describe your normal stance and how are your shuolders? Something is throwing the jacket off (or rather the fit of the jacket doesn't jive with your body), I think its your left shoulder or rather that you shoulders are uneven. Besides the lapel bowing the left side of the front of the jacket is lower than the right side.
     


  4. poorsod

    poorsod Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    4,115
    Likes Received:
    774
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    

    I think the navy blue London is sufficient. I don't think you need a second suit. My impression is that at these medical conferences the guys wearing suits are either presenting, chairing a session or trying to sell you something.
     


  5. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    5,276
    Likes Received:
    2,264
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    

    Now I see why you want the two suits. Basically you wear a suit 3 days in a row a couple times a year and maybe one or two other times. Makes sense. In that case, go for 2 SuitSupply suits. The quality is good enough that you'll be happy to wear them until you can comfortably replace them with bespoke.
     


  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,202
    Likes Received:
    2,734
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Hi Ed:

    I decided not to make too many judgments in the end based on one picture, as you would agree I suspect.

    I had the jacket on, stood in front of the mirror, raised my arms, checked to see if it stayed on the collar, moved etc. It didn't feel tight in chest and I did not notice the unevenness at the hem.

    Here's a pic of another, same pattern (Epaulet's Weller), lighter weight fabric. You'll notice the jacket seems completely different in many ways, though it is the same cut. Here, the lapels and hem are straight. I think the tweed shot looks more flattering at the chest (swelled a bit more) and oddly, the waist looks aggressively nipped in the tweed! Of course, each jacket will be cut slightly different, but I doubt that the pattern would be so off across jackets (both 38Rs).

    I've stuck with the size because the shoulders are spot on. The chest feels fine.

    There's a lesson that many of us know and I have to remind myself: jackets are lived in and snapshots can both distort and enhance.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2014


  7. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    4,047
    Likes Received:
    11,250
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2013
    Location:
    Melbourne - Sydney - Shanghai
    TweedyProf, that jacket is really nice. The colour and texture are unusual and interesting, and I imagine quite versatile.

    If you do buy it, you'll need to get the sleeves shortened, left side a little more than right.
     


  8. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,202
    Likes Received:
    2,734
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Related:

    I was inspired by this:

    [​IMG]

    To do a variation for F/W in a heavier 13.5 oz weight with this:


    [​IMG]

    The thought being that this will come off in the brown range, go well with mid light gray and tan flannels. Pair with blue shirt and solid navy or gray ties, and with one of the wool ties I posted a few pages back, done. Alas, the lapels will not be like Greg's as much else, but his is a bespoke Formosa, I think.
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2014


  9. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,202
    Likes Received:
    2,734
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Cox, you mean the purple, yes? It's $900 unfortunately!
     


  10. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    4,047
    Likes Received:
    11,250
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2013
    Location:
    Melbourne - Sydney - Shanghai
    $900? A mere bagatelle.

    One thing I've just noticed though, is that the left quarter seems to hang lower than the right. Which is kind of weird.

    Maybe go back to the shop with a tape measure and really check the damn thing out carefully. I don't have a tailor's eye, but I note that a tailor (or at least, an industry guy, not sure if Edmorel is a tailor but he seems to know an awful lot) has come on and commented about the jacket being a bit out of kilter. I think that's the one and only issue here. Is the jacket really out of kilter, or was that some funny lens distortion effect or your colostomy bag or some other extrinsic factor?

    If you can satisfy yourself that the jacket is well made and sits straight on your body, buy it. My two cents' worth.
     


  11. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    4,047
    Likes Received:
    11,250
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2013
    Location:
    Melbourne - Sydney - Shanghai
    I'm sorely tempted by that Raffaele Caruso/Sartoria Parma suit, but I just realised that I actually do have a charcoal grey suit, albeit with a subtle windowpane:

    [​IMG]

    I really don't think I could do better than the above. Maybe I should pass. Save my pennies for B&Tailor.
     


  12. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,202
    Likes Received:
    2,734
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    But Cox, I'm not a surgeon!

    Fair point on the hem: I don't think it's the cut, see the other Weller jacket above. But it might be off kilter and I wasn't noticing it. I did check for length and didn't notice it then. Suffice it to say, I'm not buying it, but I agree, would be an interesting addition.

    On other matters: did check out Eidos at Carson Street. Very nice though the patterns are too aggressive for me. Hope they will have more solids or lightly patterned options. FYI, the 48 in the Tipo cut from Eidos fit me well as did the 48 Formosa. Button stance was good, not too high. Gorge was rather high, though.
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2014


  13. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,202
    Likes Received:
    2,734
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    For discussion.

    I can't help but be pulled to this (it's not available anymore):

    [​IMG]

    It's a gray on navy ground, I think, with rust overcheck. Here's an Eidos (actually a gun check, but the blurriness makes it similar).

    [​IMG]

    I just don't know if I could wear it. None of my colleagues wear coats and ties, so I usually go for sedate solids. Despite the fustiness of the houndstooth, the overcheck might just be too much...thoughts?

    If I were to pair it, light gray or chocolate brown flannels, maybe mid gray though the contrast might disappear. Again solid of faintly patterned ties.
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2014


  14. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

    Messages:
    3,379
    Likes Received:
    2,998
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2014
    How them collars? Bathroom selfie
    [​IMG]
     


  15. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,202
    Likes Received:
    2,734
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Noodles, get your wife to take a picture, full shot waist height. A selfie from the bottom is going to distort collar height .
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by