Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    yeah, but do you still wear the tie?


    twinz!

    ---

    MF - like that new jacket. enjoy it and keep it away from dangerous stains and thieving bastards.
     


  2. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ok, that tweed I posted earlier is on the Weller cut by Epaulet. Thought I would pick up a harris tweed since the price is very reasonable.,The only question for me now is the sizing.

    I like the fit, aside from the issues noted earlier (lapel, more constructed shoulder). The main issue is a very slight bowing of the right lapel. It might be just my stance (the left lapel is straight), and I didn't notice it when in the store. But now that I look at it, it bugs me. A 40 felt too big so the only question is whether to size up to a 39 from a 38, which means 0.5 inches in the chest and 0.25 inches in the shoulder. No divots in the 40 so I don't expect this difference to be a problem and might even out the chest.

    Or I could not mess with it since it otherwise fits fine (no one seemed to be bothered by it, and I know how picky this crowd is). The chest did not feel tight and gives a somewhat sculpted appearance in the pic.

    If people here aren't bothered by it, I'll leave it be. So, one more time: thoughts on that?

    [​IMG]
     


  3. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    The hourglass figure is a little aggressive looking there, but outside of that I think it's nice.

    Oh, might be the angle but it also looks a tad short to my eye. Idk.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2014


  4. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    @TweedyProf, I think it looks fine as is. That said, it may be worth looking at the 39 vs. the 38 just for your own edification. If you don't like it, you can always stay with that you have.
     


  5. V1KTA222

    V1KTA222 Senior member

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    Dear Good Natured Folks,

    I've been lurking on here for a while and have found this thread to be very valuable to my learning. For this reason, I'm wondering if I could enlist your help in building a starter CM wardrobe, as I transition out of the skinny aesthetic.

    Some context about me - I am a mid-30s surgical resident in the US, which means I am in scrubs 24/7. However, I am in need of a conservative suit 5-10 times a year for presentations and such, and in two years for fellowship interviews. To that end, I'd like to get a navy suit and a charcoal suit to fill those roles. With loans and my resident salary, however, I am looking to do this on a little bit of a budget. Once I get a "real" job, I hope to have a good enough understanding of fit and my own style that I won't feel bad splurging on nicer suits.

    Here is what I have so far, and I'd like to ask for your feedback on fit (length, balance, gorge, quarters, etc). I should note, only the first fit is a navy suit. The other two, I'm posting to get some advice on what fits and what doesn't.

    Suit Supply London - 42L
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Suit Supply Lazio - 42L
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Same pants from Lazio. Included this one just to see if the coat is too short (it's 40R).
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Sorry if some of these came out a little blurry. I'm having some lighting issues in my place and need to find a better spot for pictures. Thanks for your help. Though I'm looking for fit advice, I welcome any and all comments.
     


  6. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    I like the fit of the London suit the best. The others have some small skirting issues, but it might just be your wide stance. I do think your pants can benefit from a little tapering, they seem a little full on you. Lastly, I like the look of the L better than the R, length looks just right on them...
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2014


  7. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    is that how you normally stand? why are your feet planted so far apart? are you trying to signal larry craig? :rimshot:

    as jubei said, the skirt looks off. you have a "pear shape" in those pictures, which could be the result of the way you're standing, or a jacket cut that doesn't work on your body type. (wide hips, narrow shoulders)

    would help if you took some pictures standing normally.
     


  8. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    @V1KTA222, I agree with the others about your stance and it making it difficult to tell what fits and what doesn't. From the photos, I think the London fit is a bit better for you and that the L vs. the R length is a better choice. If you really only need to wear a suit 5-10 times per year (less than once a month), I'd consider taking the money you'd be spending on both a navy and a charcoal suit and getting just one higher quality navy suit. I generally believe that a man should own both a navy and a grey suit if possible, but in this case you may be better off spending a bit more on one nicer suit or perhaps using the money you'd spend on the second suit on good shoes / shirts / ties or maybe a sport coat for more casual events. Once you are earning more, you can get the second suit.
     


  9. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    So I was plannign on designing a Casentino wool coat for my girlfriend, seen as there aren't many RTW for sale. It's going to be dark green Casentino wool, and made by Luxire.

    I drew a quick sketch based mainly on her input and example pictures, but with a few of my own touches. I added 3 roll 2 buttoning, envelope patch pockets, turnback cuffs and a half-belt in the back. I also rounded the lapels a bit, because I felt it was more feminine. She has lots of scarves, and always wears them during the winter time, so I lowered the buttoning point a little, towards the natural waist. That way she can show off her scarf while wearing the coat.

    After the sketch I quickly added colour using photoshop, as she likes seeing that. Excuse the sketch quality, I haven't drawn in over a year, so I'm a little rusty.

    The proportions aren't perfect, and the coat will have a bit more shape in real life, but at least it gives an idea of the general design.

    Original sketch:
    [​IMG]

    Colour:
    [​IMG]

    Any and all feedback is more than welcome, as this is the first time I've ever designed anything clothing related, and I know very little about women's fashion.
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2014


  10. V1KTA222

    V1KTA222 Senior member

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    Thanks for the comments thus far. I don't usually stand like that, I don't think. I am a sloucher though, and I think my wide stance in those pics comes from me trying to stand up straight after walking back from setting up my self timer. I'll try to take some more shots.

    My thoughts about getting two suits are that I go to professional conferences 2 times a year, and they last about 3 days. I was hoping to have more than one outfit to wear on those consecutive days.

    If I were to go to a higher price point, is there anything in the 7-800 range, or does it jump to 1k for a nice quality suit?

    Also, lol at Larry Craig!
     


  11. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    MF nice little project, looks quite nice so far. Where are you sourcing the fabric if I might ask? PM me if you don't want it advertised on the board.
     


  12. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    I'm fancying this grey 110s wool Raffaele Caruso Sartoria Parma suit currently on eBay (brand new with tags).
    Believe it or not, I own no plain grey or navy suits. Mind you, my job doesn't really call for them, but still...they are supposed to be a menswear staple, right?
    I think this jacket has a nice cut to it. I particularly like the lapels and the waist suppression. As you can see, it's a 3-roll-2. Thoughts?
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2014


  13. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    I think it looks quite nice. Versatile colour too. Shoulders seem to be quite heavily structured, though. Which isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it goes against the current SF fashion. Depends on your physique and preferences, I guess
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2014


  14. The Ernesto

    The Ernesto Senior member

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    Nice jacket. Is that a thermometre built into the mannequin? Also, with the waist suppression sometimes vendors pin the back to give the jacket a nice shape. Not saying this is necessarily the case in this instance.
     


  15. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Cheers, HC. Luxire is sourcing it themselves, so you'd have to ask them.
     


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