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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    For future commissions (you can't change this on these) I would try lowering the button stance a little bit and also lengthening the jacket. This, along with less waist suppression, should allow the jacket to fall more cleanly over your hips rather than flaring out a bit as it does now.
     
  2. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    I must have glossed over this shoulder issue.

    By the way, Mr. Field was measuring from my thumbs when remeasuring for the sleeves.
    I told him there's about a 1/2 cm difference in between my thumbs. That leads me to believe that it led to the uneven sleeves the first time. (See my right sleeves).

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2014
  3. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    Honestly, I think Iso should've tried some RTW suits before going bespoke. Look what happened.
    Iso, how much RTW stuff did you try and what were the results???
     
  4. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Noodles, next tine have him measure from your cuff perhaps? I sometimes compare the shoulder to cuff length of my jacket and shirts to see how much length the jacket should have. Obviously one needs a proper fitting shirt for this but I'm guessing you're good with that!
     
  5. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Am I crazy for thinking Isolation would do well to show a tiny bit more shirt underneath his vest in a 3 piece suit?
     
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  6. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Well all I can say it wasn't nearly as good for the price. I never had too much luck.

    I actually liked the slight flaring of the skirt as it accentuates the waistedness. I saw a nice huntsman jacket that did that and I really liked the look. I feel like this is a personal preference thing as I do like the look, but as always I'm open to advice. I do wonder if the jacket length should be increased, but I actually think it's just about right, though any shorter would be too short.

    I've met a physiotherapist but for my foot problems, and she's never mentioned my shoulders/back as a problem, but if I have a chance I'll ask about it.

    I'll get my jackets in heavier fabric back tomorrow and I'll see if they have pulling at the button too, in which case I might leave it with the tailor to let out a bit.

    edit: also about the waistcoat, I did actually ask to have the buttoning stance lowered slightly for all my other waistcoats. I do like a relatively high stance but I agree that a bit more shown would be better.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2014
  7. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    Yeah...I told him my thumbs are crooked but he kept on measuring from the thumbs. Imma gonna go nuts if the sleeves come out uneven tomorrow.
     
  8. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Isolation, serious question: do you have mild scoliosis? That shoulder drop is quite a bit. Or have you had a shoulder injury?

    To the others, would one put padding in the lower shoulder to even them out?
     
  9. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think pretty much all dropped shoulders come from some kind of scoliosis (this is why the hip is usually higher on that side too).

    As I said earlier, you can even out with padding, but this is currently not what the cool kids are doing.
     
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  10. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    True, it's personal preference, and Huntsman does sometimes do this.
     
  11. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Leaving personal preference aside and noting that I do like this ahem "modern/fashionable" trend and I want to get it to look as waisted without sacrificing the overall look too much (lol topman), do you think the pulling at the button is a significant issue that I should fix? The main problem is I will be leaving Hong Kong soon and if I ask the tailor to fix it I'd have to get him to ship it to me after which can cost more and such.

    I don't know how much of it is me being made overly sensitive to the button pulling since hanging around SF, and how much of it is that it's an actual notable distraction and will look badly fitted. Part of me don't think it's all that bad and I can probably live with wearing it, but I've got it drilled into my head that you should basically see no creases in the button area, ever, which I'm not even sure if it's actually true, but maybe it is? =/
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2014
  12. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Actually I figured it out I probably have just been eating way too much stuff whilst in hong kong and should just work out more.
     
  13. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Problem solved.
     
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  14. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    What are they doing? Nothing?
     
  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The shoulders are cut so that they follow the wearer's natural shoulder line, which is not nothing - a RTW jacket will not do this - but it doesn't nothing to "hide" the dropped shoulder.

    Mina Adamo of Napolisumisura discusses this issue a little bit in my interview with her here:

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/335210/napoli-su-misura-interview-part-ii
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  16. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    So explain this to me as if I am a 5 year. Why are Isolation's jackets have uneven shoulders?
    I am not understanding this.
     
  17. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Thanks! That was a great read!
     
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  18. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Because his body's shoulders are uneven.
     
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  19. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Because my shoulders are uneven I guess. Unequal padding could look worse in motion than simply conforming to my shoulders. As I understand anyway.
     
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  20. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Almost everyone's shoulders are at least slightly uneven. Isolation just has a little more severe of a dropped shoulder than most.
     

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