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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    Speaking of brown SCs, I treated myself with this. Can't wait for it to arrive:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    And for those wondering, the SC I purchased earlier from jrd617 and mentioned on this thread fits great with medium grey and dark brown trousers. I'm really happy with it and the fit is spot on.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Am also requiring your expertise, fellow Noodlers. I'm planning on purchasing the following tie

    [​IMG]

    But am also tempted to purchase one of these two (or maybe both if they're not to similar according to you). Given that I purchase tie #1, which of the following two would you recommend

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG][​IMG]


    Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2014
  2. DeSense

    DeSense Senior member

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    I wished no 1 was a suit.

    Ties, there are sooo many nicer ones out there, especially Vandas (but no 3 is still the best). Also, 1 and 2 are very x-massy in vibe (red-green 'Oh Tannenbaum' like).
     
  3. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    The Canali SC as a suit would be a killer, yes. But I believe it will serve me well as a SC also. I've been looking for a rich dark brown SC. Hopefully this'll be it.

    As for the ties, when you put it that way, yes, they have a christmas-like vibe. Trying to put together two separate orders, one from Cappelli and another form Vanda. I have 3 other ties from Cappelli in my shopping cart and 3 or 4 additional from Vanda (haven't decided on one tie with a navy base yet, beside the green one above). If I had to choose between #2 and #3, I'd probably choose #3. I'll have to think #1 and #2 over given your feedback. Thanks.
     
  4. DeSense

    DeSense Senior member

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    That Canali looks nice, will do well as an SC, too. Paired with Grey, tan or blue-ish grey flannels maybe?

    Ties are always an underestimated, difficult job. If you go back to the beginning of this thread you'll see lots of recommendations. If anything, the trend seems to be going (back) towards stripes. I'm sure you'll get more recommendations or feedback when you post another selection. Always good to mention what suit/sc/outfit you aim to pair with.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2014
  5. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    As for the SC, that was my plan also. Trying to find blue-ish grey and coffee flannels also but haven't found what I'm looking for. I know Panta stocked really nice ones but they didn't fit me properly unfortunately.

    As for ties, I'm really just trying to build up my wardrobe. The bulk of my wardrobe consists of ties with a navy base, some burgundy, brown, green, rust and a bunch of solid grenadines. I'm not into striped ties, although I own two (navy-brown and navy-burgundy). I have the base covered and am trying to develop the wardrobe further by incorporating some color.
     
  6. teoky

    teoky Senior member

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    @DonRaphael I remember that you have the EG Cappelli Oulet F6 tie, I think I just bought the last one from Patrizio. Would like to have your opinion on how do you wear it. Is it too busy for a suit?
     
  7. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    I can't remember what it looks like, care to share a link or describe?

    EDIT:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2014
  8. teoky

    teoky Senior member

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    Yeap that one! Been looking at it for quite awhile. I think Patrizio has unlisted that tie already.
     
  9. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    It's a beautiful tie. The silk is rather stiff. You'll notice when you receive it. I have never used it with a suit, but I can see it working with a navy suit if everything else is toned down (navy suit, dark brown shoes, simple white shirt, white linen PS). I rarely step out of any comfort zone. I've personally used it with with SCs where either the top or bottom half is brown (brown wool SC or brown flannel trousers) paired with a light blue shirt. But then again, I'm not the most creative dresser on this board. I'm sure someone else would be able to give you more constructive feedback. Either way, you won't be disappointed with it.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2014
  10. teoky

    teoky Senior member

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    Cool. Thanks for the opinion, will try to pair it when I receive the tie.
     
  11. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Gianni Cerruti wannabe!
     
  12. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I joke about RTC's red blazer but I am getting a burgundy one too so idk how hypocritical I sound =P

    Some final thoughts about these? I think it's turned out okay. Trousers for the first one is too tight but that can't be helped as I'd said.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    The newer trousers feel much better, I think you can see from the back it's much nicer too, especially considering I wanted it quite slim. I've also got these pairs with single reverse pleats and I have to say it feels amazing I am completely sold on pleats.
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    I personally don't think the pulling at the button is a big deal, but I guess it is noticeable. What do you guys think? Should I ask to have it less waistd? I feel like the shape is good atm, and the crease is unavoidable with such a light weight fabric.
     
  13. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    ^
    Does your right shoulder drop that much, or is it just the camera angle?
     
  14. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I think I literally just have a ridiculous drop.
     
  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @Isolation

    Personally I think the jackets are too tight around the waist. You can see this by the pulling when buttoned but also how far apart the two sides of the jacket are when unbuttoned.

    That said,I think these look much better than what you initially showed us.
     
    3 people like this.
  16. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    I am liking the jackets but I'd dial back on the waist suppression. They should find a way to clean up the back especially the right side around your waist. Correct posture would help too, if you stand less erect.

    Unfortunately, the pants are not doing anything for me. The last one looks better than the rest though.
     
  17. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Fwiw, this is probably something that you can and maybe should try to fix. It's generally caused by curvature of the spine, which if not structural can be corrected by physical therapy, which may save you some back pain later on. I am not a trainer or physical therapist so completely unqualified to tell you anything beyond that, but may be worth meeting with one if you don't already.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    @Isolation
    The pants seem too tight and they need to be let out a bit. Others have already commented on the jacket. Too much waist suppression and the shoulders are not balanced.

    @Fellow Noodlers
    The white socks were more of a joke. I will wear stockings next time.
     
  19. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Ah now that I think of it I did ask him to lessen the waist suppression on some of them, so perhaps the final product will be better. I will be getting most of the tomorrow then some more later. I might leave some with him to make some final changes. Anything else I should look at for tomorrow?
     
  20. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    To be clear, the shoulder issue has to do with Isolation's dropped shoulder and not a tailoring mistake. I actually think they've dealt with it reasonably well. The other way to go is to try and make the shoulders more even by putting more padding in the lower one, but this strategy seems out of vogue now, as everyone is trying to take all the stuffing out of their jackets.
     

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