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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Noodles:

    1. Buy that tie now and a few others.

    2. Order some more ties to bring your total acquisitions since this post to 10 ties.

    3. Add at least a few other ties to your wishlists.

    4. Profit (well, at least look damn good).
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. Tirailleur1

    Tirailleur1 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    HA I cannot believe I missed this

    I see CM posters still lying to themsleves that they are not as brand conscious as SWD.


    lulz

    play on playaz
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2014
    5 people like this.
  3. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    There is definitely some spill over from AV selling into SF orthodoxy, that's for sure. And some are just brand ho's. Noodles has a LV handbag.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Senior member

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    Pshhh NO ONE in CM geeks out over Kiton, Brioni, or Attolini. NO ONE

    @The Noodles Damn, that looks like a Drake's striped grenadine I was hunting for a few months ago. OOS too :(
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2014
  5. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    By the way, I'm not sure about more stripes for you, Noodley, especially in bold colours like the red/white/blue you have in mind: you're young and have a boyish look, and are, I think, wanting to project a more adult and masculine kind of personal authority in your business dress. With your proportions, stripey ties and grey or blue suits will always be somehow reminiscent of school uniform. You don't want to look like an Asian Harry Potter. The neats work better for you, I think.
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  6. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    ^ I have to disagree on the tie in question. With some striped ties, sure, but the tie he has picked out is completely tasteful and grown up. I don't see anyone mistaking it for a school uniform tie.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    It's not the tie in itself, it's the combination of Noodles' fresh face and infant-like proportionately large head, his preference for plain mid-grey and navy jackets, and his seemingly pubescent wonder at the world.

    I agree, as stripes go, it's perfectly understated and tasteful.
     
  8. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I have like one plaid shirt I wear casually, and I have a similar figure/look as noodles kind of, and I think the shirt looks quite good on me, albeit only on a quite casual context. Think it looks a lot different on me than most of my other clothes, but sometimes I want that.
     
  9. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    It's the overalls with holes in, at the southern end of the picture, that worry me more. And the sleeves partially rolled up as if washing the dishes.

    But I'm a peculiarly reactionary individual when it comes to these things, and I appreciate that I'm in a tiny minority.
     
  10. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Are knit ties not acceptable to be worn with worsted suits (say gray/navy)?
     
  11. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    I think it depends on the context. I'm picturing perhaps a brown or tan belt and shoes, micro-check shirt, maybe even a button down, a cheerful cotton PS: in this instance, the navy suit is looking less Anglo-business and more southern European and light. I think that would work just fine with a knit.

    Generally I wear knits with odd jackets or a linen suit, because it's good to be consistent with tone. But I think a navy worsted suit, or grey especially on the lighter side, is versatile enough to go either way as long as all the other elements are in tune.
     
  12. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    @Isolation your jacket fits are progressing nicely. In particular, the backs are a lot smoother and much more flattering now than your last set of images posted over on the HK tailors thread. Progress! Obviously, the trouser fits need further refinement. Best wishes with your new commissions.
     
  13. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    @Claghorn while not suffering from Noddles' "navy on navy (NON)" affliction (AKA Navy OCD Noodles), this relative SF newcomer wishes to testify that he has benefited greatly from lurking on this thread. I wish to thank you and the other thread contributors for the quick fire master class on the initial subject of assembling a basic non-navy tie collection, before moving on to other ensemble related topics.

    @Rudals thanks for the vicarious learning opportunity. P.S. The "NON" quip above is "good natured", no malice intended. [​IMG]
     
  14. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    I'm down with white linen as long as it's folded discreetly. You're wearing a masterpiece; why do you want to draw people's eyes straight to a small piece of white linen?
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    ^^ Quite. It's the perfect PS for the job, but less is more.

    Also, further to the striped tie business, this is a very nice one. "Tie Your Tie" for Exquisite Trimmings:

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I just ordered some ties from Sam Hober. I really have a money spending problem. I haven't even worn half my ties more than once.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Any reasonable recourse for too-high armholes, or am I SOL? Recently received my first (of 3) Formosa mto SC's and after wearing it around a bit, I realized that the armholes are too tight when I bring my arms forward.

    I tried on a suit initially to check for fit, and while it seemed a bit snug across the back (I believe I mentioned as much here a few months back, when I posted a few shots of both a 48 and a 50), I did not detect this additional issue.

    I am bummed, to say the least, and, having done a (very) brief bit of research on this topic, I am not optimistic. The thought of having somebody tinker with this beautiful jacket is also a bit unsettling.
     
  18. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not sure I fully understand the problem you're describing, but are you in New York? If so probably best to bring it by next time Dionisio (head tailor at Formosa) is in town and see what he says.
     
  19. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Am in Boston (though, slightly ironically, was at NMWA this past monday for a visit and the jacket was waiting for me when I returned home).

    What I'm trying to say is the armscye (I believe) is too restrictive. With my arms at my side I can feel how snug it is around my shoulders, though not uncomfortably so. When I raise my arms in front of me (I actually detected this when I went to wash my hands) there is an uncomfortable amount of tension around my shoulders and pits.
     
  20. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Without seeing it, and with the disclaimer that I am not a tailor, I'm guessing that this could be alleviated by letting out the side seams a little bit to give more space across the shoulder blades.
     

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