Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.
Are we ever satisfied?!
No, you just settle for 99% perfection. That's one of the things I like about Vox -- he's very honest about the compromises inherent in bespoke clothing, which are kind of fascinating. I mean, sure, at the end of the day I'm still wearing a lot of thrifted stuff while aspiring to bespoke, but I like to think that his posts pulled back the curtain a little bit -- and it's very easy, as a novice, to say "one day I'll just get everything made and it will be perfect, and then being well-dressed will be easy."
Dear Noodle's thread: I posted a couple of weeks back about CMT fabric choices (short version: I'm in a CBD work environment but moving to a ridiculously hot place) and several folks suggested Minnis Fresco. I ordered some samples from Huddersfield and they look great. Follow-on question: any experience with the trade-offs between the 280-310g fabric weight and the 435-465g weight? I imagine the heavier fabric hangs a bit better, but does it undo the warm-weather benefit of the open weave?
All I can say is that the 280 is amazing in warm weather. Hell, even in hot weather. But you'll find better answers in the Unfunded Liabilities Thread. That's where all the fabric nuts reside.
Hangs a lot better, but you will boil! For the very hot weather a quarter- lined coat and an unlined pants are essential, 10 oz (280 - 310 g) fabric will have enough drape, but you need to take care about construction - fused coats will be hotter than canvassed ones, more structured will be more than unstructured, lining is also important. For over 25 Celsius the best I can find is wool linen blend or mohair open weave (mohair is crisp enough at rather low weights), coping with heat is also dependent on how much time you spend outside air conditioned areas, amount of humidity, etc. My personal tactics was to change at lunch if possible, at least the shirt, multiple showers per day, just to keep in the non rumpled looks!
Mohair or mohair blends are great for the summer and wear almost as light as linen. Just picked these up from Charles Tyrwhitt and, while the construction and details aren't in Rota, HY, or Epaulet territory, I love them--they seem well built and almost weightless. If Pingson wears the brand, you know they can't be too bad:
In warm weather pants are not the issue, provided that they are unlined - a polyester lining can alter any blend or weave's ability to cope with heat (nothing against CT). What you need to do is to try to maximize the air flow between the layers of cloth that will give you the natural "refrigeration" I.e. Quick drying your sweat. Single breasted will wear cooler than DB, suspenders can restrict airflow, very fitted shirts also... After a certain temperature it will be hot, whatever you do...
As far as coping. Take a cab everywhere. Also gives you much needed "me" time during the day.
Those days of nice and fairly clean cab days are numbered for you! Ahahagaha. But then again, you will probably get a nice car and drive around everywhere once you are in the States.
Let's all guess what kind of car Clags will get!
I say a beamer for some reason...
Since this thread allows tangents....."Beamer" refers to BMW motorcycles while "Bimmer" s the correct term for BMW automobiles. (although I'm sure that blue odd jackets would look sweet on a German motorbike)
And thank you everyone for the Fresco feedback.
I believe das auto BMW in german is pronounced "bae em vey"
I agree with the suggestion to check out the "Unfunded Liabilities" thread. That said, heavier fabric will hang better but fabric hanging a bit better doesn't really matter if you are covered in sweat for your business meetings. We're not dealing with linen here; Fresco, comparable fabrics and perhaps tropical weight wool will all look fine for a few wearings. You'll need to get them pressed more often than heavier fabrics, but that's just a cost of doing business in warm weather when you have to be CBD.
On vacation, so have not caught up with the thread, and am probably now 50+ pages behind after 12 days given the pace of this thread. Slow down folks!
Anyway, a few minutes to post.
Stitches, did you ever post fit pics of the striped Vandas?
Quick summary of the last major discussions?
Off to Salzburg from Budapest, via Vienna. Just realized Vass is here but I don't think they sell seconds, and I couldn't afford their seconds anyway. But would have been cool to see them. If I pass by, I'll post some pics.
I'm getting a Honda. I come from a Honda family. Plus we have a great mechanic.
You mean Acura... right? I <3 my 2005 TL. Goin' strong.
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