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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    There are no clean lines. The shoulders are uneven. The pants are bunching. The sleves are rotating everywhere.

    [​IMG]


    If it was me and if possible, I would walk out on all of these commissions.

    EDIT: My drawing came out to small in size, but you get the point. I hope. =)
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  2. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Moleskin is a heavy cotton, so should drape very cleanly. Not wrinkle prone at all compared to most cottons. Compare your pictures to voxsartoria's pics. I'm not saying yours should be as nice or as clean, but it's a good example. Claghorns BNtailor stuff is also a good example.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2014
  3. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Thanks for the comments. I will say though that a lot of the things you noted the tailor did already note and will be changing. I am paying 540 USD for CMT for reference, which I think is fairly cheap, and I still feel okay about it. I'll post the final fitting where I hope most of these problems will be fixed. I will keep my fingers crossed an what not. It is a first suit and I was told by more than one tailor that I'm especially hard to fit well for even before I was knowledgeable enough to tell at all how well a suit fit, so I think there's some of that.

    As for the moleskin, yeah right now I'm not very happy and I've mentioned it. This is a different tailor and for me is a budget tailor. Again for reference they charge 360 and 300 USD for a full and half canvassed CMT, which is not much more than a nice OTR suit, and I think is fairly reasonable if I look at it as such.
     
  4. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Why don't you put that money together and get one or two excellent suits? Quality over quantity.
     
    2 people like this.
  5. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I don't have enough versatile pieces. I also want too many things. I am a sucker.

    I mean I feel like this is so far a huge improvement over the stuff I've had before, but you guys obviously have a higher standard so atm I'm mostly deferring to your opinions. If everyone really thinks it's hopeless and I should give up on these tailors I'll probably listen but I think I'll wait until the final product is ready for that.

    I will add that especially for my partner it's impossible for them to find anything that fits halfway well OTR (size 34 is too big, and most OTR stuff that offers those sizes are awful) so for them at least it's a way to get pieces they can actually wear and look decent to most people (unfortunately that has priority over having stuff that I'd be proud to show the tougher SF crowd), not to get something perfect or near perfect. For me also it's a step up from OTR and also I can have control on the stylings and fabrics so even if the cut is not perfect, it's still better and I can get it in material and stylings I like. I don't think it's a poor choice if I make that comparison since the resulting price is not much more than OTR, and the fit's better. Obviously it's no contest if I compare these to to having jackets made with a Saville Row tailor, or even say WW Chan, who are significantly more expensive (2.5-3x more).
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2014
  6. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    The suit already has its main shape, so not much can be changed. The fact that their initial fittings were so bad should be tell you enough about their quality.
     
  7. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Hmm also last time I got a suit from Chan it wasn't that great and people on SF didn't like it very much either (which is what made me think it's partially just my body that's hard to fit for, as they are meant to be quite good and gave me quite a few fittings), so I didn't think it was worth it to pay the extra. Perhaps after this I'll just try get stuff made from an SR house? I'm not sure what my other alternatives are.
     
  8. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    I'm sorry @Isolation but you'd get better results with RTW but like most things in life, lessons learned. Your subsequent commissions will be better, I hope.
     
  9. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Aw I didn't think it was be so unanimiously negative. I really didn't think it'd be considered worse than RTW though, is that not a bit harsh? There's no RTW that doesn't look awful on my shoulders anyway, and I like being able to pick my fabrics/stylings. In any case I hope it's not faux pas, but I'm forwarding your comments to my tailor anyway =P I wonder what he'll say.

    Anyway I'm sad now. =[ Think it's a bit late to change tailors at least for this trip, and I'd already given them a bunch of my fabric. I don't feel like it's too expensive of a lesson anyway, and that's the thing. Maybe you guys would be ashamed to wear less than perfect, but at least now I have some stuff to wear over winter.

    Now I just wonder if I should still get that SC made with the gray/brown windowpane I posted earlier. I guess that's a no from you guys? =P

    Anyway as it is I've already committed to getting a few more pieces made so I'm depending on you guys to salvage the situation or at least make the best out of it. Thanks a lot for the comments so far. If you note anything specific I should tell the tailor before I get the rest made please let me know, I'd greatly appreciate it.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2014
  10. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    There are significant issues here, but it is possible that it can be salvaged. If not by this tailor, maybe by someone with better skills (and eyesight)

    If he's even considering letting you walk out with these suits, if he is not pulling his hair out and cursing at himself when looking at these jacket backs, I would say that he has little pride in his work.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2014
  11. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    There's a big range between perfect and terrible. You're on the bottom end of that spectrum. Aim to have at least an above average fit. Also, don't insult your tailor by showing our harsh comments. You're not paying much, so you can't expect much either. There aren't really any deals in bespoke, you get what you pay for. bNtailor might be the exception, but I'm assuming they'll raise their prices soon.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Who are bNtailor, is it a korean company..? What do you think my best options are in the UK/London? I assumed SR tailors, but I am not sure if there are good alternatives.
     
  13. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Many Italian tailors travel to London for trunk shows. Look for Napoli Su Misura for example. Also, English Steed (Voxsartoria's favourite tailors) makes beautiful MTM clothes at a fairly humane cost, and bespoke at a slightly higher cost. Their MTM will be way better than the HK bespoke clothes you've ordered now.

    I'm sorry you got screwed over so bad with these suits, because some of the issues can't really be corrected without the garments looking off. For example, the sleeve pitch on the patterned jacket: They'll have to loosen the sleeve from the shoulder seam and rotate it backward by several degrees for the sleeve not to look so extremely rumpled. This will cause the pattern matching in the shoulders to be uneven.

    You should have started off with one suit and waited to see the results. Then, if you liked it, ordered more with those patterns. See it as an expensive lesson learned.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  14. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    I hope that when I reach the 25 year mark, my wife will begin to feed my lunacy.


    There is only one cleaner that I ever take anything too. Polovoy.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    This is probably going to sound like a dick of a thing to say, but in my opinion, any bespoke suit that is costing you less than about $1500 is probably not worth buying.

    There are tons and tons of guys out there doing bespoke work on the cheap, and most of it is utter crap.
     
    2 people like this.
  16. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    @Isolation is falling prey to the 'more equals better' line of thought. You're better off getting a few nice things and building up instead of trying to acquire lots of meh things at once. When you know there's something better out there, that 'meh' stuff will never get worn. It's a total waste of money and the results show it.

    I've honestly thrifted most of my wardrobe and like 90% of it looks better than that suit does on you. The rest I trade or return. I think you're burning your money with suits like that. It doesn't matter if it's cheap if it sucks.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  17. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Wow, I love the jackets on the Steed website! Very impressive. I'll have to keep them in mind when I'm ready to take a step up in quality for MTM.
     
  18. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This

    or

    you know where to look, what you should be looking for and how to convey what you're looking for.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2014
    2 people like this.
  19. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    CHA-CHING!
     
  20. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Iso, you're experiencing the pitfalls of commissioning too many pieces at once with an untested tailor. No matter how much you're paying, it's usually better to have one suit made to make sure the tailor can deliver acceptable product.
     
    5 people like this.

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