Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

    Messages:
    3,379
    Likes Received:
    2,998
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2014
    LOL - What took you so long to do this?
     
  2. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

    Messages:
    3,762
    Likes Received:
    6,783
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    Trying to stay "Good Natured" ;)
     
  3. Kira

    Kira Senior member

    Messages:
    577
    Likes Received:
    48
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2014
    Well that escalated into immaturity.

    Just a friendly discussion about a damn jacket and just starting arguing for no reason. Now that, is a troll.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2014
  4. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

    Messages:
    3,379
    Likes Received:
    2,998
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2014
    @Murlsquirl
    I trying to figure something out here.
    Do you own any suits from SS? If so, what line and what size?

    A month or two ago, I took my two coworkers to Suit Supply because they were smart and wouldn't get a Zegna or other brand name suits. I guided them as best as I could and their suits look great for the most part. As you guys know, I am like a "40 yr old virgin" waiting for the Formosa and so I thought I do some comparison to figure out if the Formosa would fit like the below SS. The styling of these suits are probably very different but I think a Formosa 40R would serve me well.

    Suit Supply 40R La Spalla
    Size Shoulder Chest Back Length Waist
    Suit Supply 40 46 111 78 89.9
    [​IMG]

    Formosa 38R
    Size Shoulder Chest Back Length Waist
    Formosa 38 46 106 77 87.5
    [​IMG]


    Formosa 40R
    Size Shoulder Chest Back Length Waist
    Formosa 40 48 110 78 91.5
    Out of Stock :(
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2014
  5. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

    Messages:
    2,393
    Likes Received:
    4,875
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2013
    Location:
    The Frozen Tundra
    Measurements don't always translate to actual fit, but it seems a good bet that the 40R Formosa will fit you well, Noodles. I'll be jealous when it arrives.

    Everyone loved the La Spalla on you, but this pic makes me think that the high buttoning point won't do you too many favors in terms of porportion. Did anyone suggest trying a 40L in La Spalla?
     
  6. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

    Messages:
    8,984
    Likes Received:
    11,036
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    I have a few of the old Roma...not made anymore. Roma is the only SS cut I could get away with because it was a drop 10. Even with Formosa, my jackets are 50/52 and my trousers are 48. Like others, button stance is my main compliant with SS. Here is a Roma:

    [​IMG]

    If you want, check with Greg to see if he has a spare pair of 50 trousers in the navy plaid. I might consider selling you the jacket if he does. I've found that with the soft shoulder, the 52 works better for me and the spalla manica a camicia is perfect with the 50.

    The front view of that La Spalla looks great on you. It looks like you could cut the tag and be ready to roll.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2014
  7. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

    Messages:
    3,379
    Likes Received:
    2,998
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2014
    Hmmmm...everyone has pretty much said that I should go 40L.
    But I am only 180cm or 5'11".
    My torso is long and my legs are...sorta short.
    I wonder why everyone is suggesting going L?
    Can I get the 40R (since Formosas don't come in L) and get an alteration to lengthen it?

    @Murlsquirl
    Thanks for the response.
    Woah...that's a nice offer. Let me call up Greg and see.
    But I think I have to go with 48 trousers. Yes, seriously.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2014
  8. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    68,895
    Likes Received:
    31,016
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    

    generally i do not love BDs with ties, but that is just me. it can be great, and i myself have pulled it off to great effect in the past. :)



    gorge is perfect.

    collar roll is perfect.

    it is a bit small, but that is a quibble at best.

    you are willing to disagree for all time, but the fact is you are, by all SF standards, 100% wrong. you are nit picking on an excellent fit by a member with some of the best fits on the board, and in the meantime have posted interest in 2 very loud, and imo, very ugly, SCs that look like they are from 1972.



    i would not call anyone a troll, but it is clear that you have a very different value set than pretty much everyone here.

    the goal of this thread is not to appease everyone and help guide them to personal nirvana. the goal of this thread is for individuals who accept SF standards to help understand and apply them to their personal dress and closet.

    its not for people who say, well no one around me can tell the difference, so what is the difference how old my SC looks, or i want to be a peacock. i am sure there are threads here for that, but this is not it.

    this is not the thread for raging against the machine. please keep that in mind. its also a DH thread, and i would encourage clags to delete posts as he sees needed if this thread is abused.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2014
  9. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,897
    Likes Received:
    4,745
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    You have much to learn, but there's nothing wrong with that. Some good natured advice:

    1. The gorge is high, but it's not overly so. It could be slightly lower, but that depends on his proportions. Taller people can pull off a lower one more easily than shorter people.
    2. I don't see how you get to that conclusion. A button down collar has 2 buttons for the collar points, so it's impossible to button it incorrectly. The collar is unlined and has a nice roll to it, which is how buttondown collars are supposed to look. If you look at the original Brooks Brothers button down collars from 50 years ago, you'll see they have very soft and rolled collars. Here are two examples of BD collars that are inspired by the original ones:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    3. The four in hand knot is as classic as it gets, and has been worn by all the major style figures for over a century now. Which tie knot do you prefer? (please don't say double windsor)

    This thread offers good natured advice, but most people also accept that advice in good nature. It's a two way street. SF caters to a wide variety of aesthetics, as does this thread, but it is still within the bounds of classic menswear.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2014
  10. kulata

    kulata Senior member

    Messages:
    2,836
    Likes Received:
    4,791
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2008
    

    What's wrong with the buttoning point? Just curious. It doesn't seem high to me and a 40L will throw the sleeves off (they have functional buttonholes).

    Kira is probably trolling and that's unfortunate for a good natured thread.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2014
  11. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

    Messages:
    8,984
    Likes Received:
    11,036
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    

    I have 48 trousers so if you want to talk, PM me. You won't need a L in Formosa...I am 6'3".
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2014
  12. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

    Messages:
    8,984
    Likes Received:
    11,036
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    

    I'm with you, that is the best looking button stance I've seen on a SS cut.
     
  13. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

    Messages:
    2,393
    Likes Received:
    4,875
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2013
    Location:
    The Frozen Tundra
    Good point about the buttonholes; hadn't considered that, and the sleeves look good. Maybe it's the pictures, but Noodles looks like he's more leg than torso, and the buttoning point seems to me to accentuate that. Of course, it might look different with a tucked-in shirt.
     
  14. Kira

    Kira Senior member

    Messages:
    577
    Likes Received:
    48
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2014
    1. I'll agree to that.

    2. I never had any button down collars like that, so it looked foreign to me. Brook's Brothers get raving reviews here. I see that they have a 3 for $99 sale or something like that?

    3. The reason why I didn't like the know because the amount of spacing between the knot and the collars. No, I don't like any knots except the FIH and double FIH.

    I've accepted the good natured advice that was on here, but the ones that are confrontational and provide no form of reason at all-- I don't.

    Perhaps this discussion would've been more productive if I didn't have the mark of a neophyte. I see how other members post gratuitous and inflammatory remarks towards me for no reason other than the sake of it. Remember, I did state that I was new to redefining my personal dress and I had much to learn. I gave my arguments against it and others rebutted it. Provide some feedback on how I'm wrong and I'll stand corrected. I already mentioned that those jackets aren't acceptable to SF standards because they don't follow the provisions.

    Perhaps I don't know any better. Maybe I have more to learn that I believe..
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2014
  15. Kira

    Kira Senior member

    Messages:
    577
    Likes Received:
    48
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2014
    @kulata , no I'm not. I'm just another user that's new to the art of Sartorialism. I didn't know that the aforementioned picture was regarded as SF approved.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by