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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Noodles, have you considered getting your Dad a gift card and then going with him to help him pick out the shoes? If you get him a Nordstrom gift card, black park avenues are usually on sale for $220 during the Anniversary Sale in late July.
     


  2. DeSense

    DeSense Senior member

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    Highly recommend the film, much different from most everything. Your wife might actually know it.
     


  3. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Just get your Dad a comfortable pair of shoes that he can stand in for hours. Forget SF taste, it doesn't matter.
     


  4. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Cox congrats

    Immigration can be so tricky. Glad you've jumped a major hurdle.
     


  5. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Congrats Coxsackie!!!
    "Knee how"
     


  6. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Just referring back to the Austrian Suit Project for a moment -


    [​IMG]

    Anyone think the jacket is a tad too long? Should I maybe get it shortened 1-2cm while having the other stuff (fixing the shoulders) done?

    Also I was thinking of having 5cm cuffs put on the trousers. There's enough material for it.

    Oh yeah, and the left sleeve needs to be 1cm shorter too.
     


  7. DeSense

    DeSense Senior member

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    Even from that angle, definitely not too long. And as it's a hard 3B, it would result in an off-balance look, imho.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2014


  8. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mrs. Claghorn and Mrs. Noodles are also dealing with visa stuff right now.
     


  9. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I'd first ask a tailor whether you can fix the shoulders before spending money on the rest of it. Jacket length looks fine, but it's hard to see from this pic. Do put cuffs on the trousers. Maybe re-roll the lapels to a 3 roll 2?
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2014


  10. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Length on a finished jacket is tough to alter with good results.

    I struggle to see what makes the baseball deck shoes much worse than regular deck shoes... :devil:
     


  11. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    +1.

    Also, AE is about all I can wear with my EEE width feet. FML.
     


  12. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    ^^ Not true. As a duck-footed freak myself, I find the instep on AE lasts rather low in comparison to most European lasts, so even a normal wide fitting from an English maker can seem as spacious as a "EEE". It depends on the last of course, and if all your width is across the does as in my case, it can be hard to find a shape that's both wide enough in front and snug enough in the heel. But for what it's worth, a "country" last from C&J in a "G" width (their "extra wide) is easily equivalent to AE's triple-E. Loake and Barker's G width is their regular wide, and also very roomy - check out the Loake 26 last for a very slick and classic slender square with a load of toe room - and it's often found in the G width online: Pediwear, Herring etc.

    Edit: incidentally, I'd always assumed from the look of them that G&G's lasts were very narrow. It's not true, at least less true than with EG for example. Their wider "F" width is surprisingly generous, and the high quality buttery leather also helps it mould to your feet. The extended toes make them look daintier than they are, and trying them on was a big surprise for me. The only issues I have with G&G are that F fittings are not around much without MTO, though Bespoke England carry a few. That and the insane price of course. J Fitzpatrick's shoes also have a surprisingly generous space considering how pointy they look, and again, sweet leather that's very accommodating - in the standard (only) fitting. I take a AE 10E (very snug in some cases), and G&G's 9F are more roomy, J Fitzpatrick's UK9 standard about the same.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2014


  13. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    On rerolling a 3 button to a 3/2, I recommend not doing it. That jacket will always want to be a true three. The results will usually be at best mixed. I can say this from a sample size of one.
     


  14. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    OK, we're shifting back and forth quickly between topics:

    Going back to knits: what makers have really nice large weave knit ties? My land's end is quite nice, Italy made, very crunchy and very open weave (and often had for $30 dollars or so). I like some of the Kent Wang dotted ties, but they look more densely woven.

    Experience with the KW knits? Recommendations on others?
     


  15. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I remember DonC having a youtube vid up about how to reroll lapels. It seems to work quite well for him, but it takes some effort and a good iron to do it well. Perhaps a tailor or good dry cleaner might be able to do it with satisfactory results?

    "Of the crunchy variety, there’s Drake’s, Exquisite Trimmings, Conrad Wu for something with a denser weave, and Land’s End, KJ Beckett, Paul Stuart, Howard Yount, and our advertiser Ledbury for something looser. Notice that the different weaving patterns give the ties different textures. None are better or worse; just different.

    For something softer and floppier, there’s J. Press, Brooks Brothers, Ben Silver, Kent Wang, and The Knottery. Each, again, have theirs made in their own weaving patterns, which give them different textures. Rubinacci and Sozzi also make some in really attractive and unique patterns. You can find Sozzi at No Man Walks Alone, Exquisite Trimmings, and The Armoury (though you’ll have to call or email The Armoury to order)."

    http://putthison.com/post/85826641493/silk-knit-ties-for-summer-silk-knit-ties-are
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2014


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