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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    i want to. but i need to not be a moran with my money from time to time.

    funny how somehow this balances in my mind.

    1500 jacket and a 2000 suit, yup!

    45 tie, nope, gotta save!!!


    i have posted many times with my formosa and a drakes or bigi tie, 3 or 3.25 inch ties. looks awesome.

    i can find pics if you need. :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2014


  2. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    3" is on the narrower side (that's 7.6 cm). It's also not Bigi's house cut (9 cm) so I don't know how well it knots or how good the knot looks when they skinny down their pattern that much.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2014


  3. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hmmm...the striped I like in navy/brown is marked as 3inch width; the same striped one but in the burgundy is marked 3.25...which is right?

    Yes, 3.25 is my cut-off too.
     


  4. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Oh, I know you look good in your pics!

    I have a drake's at just about 3inches, though really with allowances, a touch below that. It was bought in the Mr Porter's sale a few years ago. It's a beautiful tie (midnight/striped grenadine) that knots terribly even with a DFIH and just is too narrow. That's why I avoid 3 inch ties (and why I like NMWA better than Mr. Porter...Barneys and Mr. Porter seem to like 3inch ties as their main cut).

    I'm venturing your Drake's are all 3.25 inches and that it makes a difference to why your ties look good.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2014


  5. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I even have a Drakes tie that's 7cm/2.75", but it's an unlined grenadine, so I wear it in place of a knit tie with sport coats. I do prefer ties around 3.5" though, but I'm guessing it'll take a year or two before the #menswear pendulum swings back from skinny to normal widths, only to go beyond that to 4" in the years after that, assuming history does repeat itself.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2014


  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's probably what my Drakes is in reality (7.5cm)...I also wear it with a casual coat that has narrower lapels...though my knit from Lands End knots better.

    Actually, the more I wear the latter, the more I'm into the its wide weave. It's nice that the tie is in a way "transluscent". Not sure all knits are equally wide in weave.
     


  7. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    i have no idea what my drake are. whatever @gdl203 says is what they are. :)
     


  8. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    In need of good natured advice!

    Just got these pants in. I'm not sure if I like the no-pleat look on a no-belt trouser.

    Should I add buttons and wear them with braces? Get a Suit Jacket made with the same fabric and make it a suit? Or just, next time, get those pleats?

    Other than the no-pleat, which is my bad, they fit great I think. WARNING: Arse pic.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  9. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think they look quite nice. If they stay up, no need for braces.

    I do think you might need to have a little more room let out in the back along the center seam (it's almost a wedgie) and perhaps a touch more around the hip...it's pulling a little in the front (are the pockets flaring slightly?). But as your coat will cover the back, not an issue. It might be that if you let out the fork a little this will take care of these problems...ask tailors?

    I don't have a view about pleats, but I think they look fine without them.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2014


  10. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    @mrjester
    If I may, I have two trousers with no belt loops from RLBL suits and I've realized that your shirt needs to be fitting so that there is no bunching up around the waist. Your pants fit fine to my eyes. I think you just need more fitting shirts.

    It is my humble opinion that trousers with no belt loops make the silhouette flow cleanly with no break.

    That's all I, a n00b, can contribute.
     


  11. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    I actually agree. I have slack in these because they're linen and I wear them casually (untucked) from time to time. I do however need to fix them and cut the bunching out.

    Thanks Rudals!
     


  12. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    8 cm, their house style
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2014


  13. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I need help too yall.
    I would like to pick up a pair of black oxfords for my dad for Fathers Day. But here are some reasons why I can't buy a Carmina or a C&J. He doesnt want to wear expensive shoes because he is a minister and he cares about his congregants. So I have to get him something below $200. I have Aldens and AE stores here in DC but they start above $300.

    Maybe I should just get a decent pair and tell him it was only $100. "Praise da lawrd!"
     


  14. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Allen Edmonds Black Park Avenue seconds. IMO. Great quality with minor blemishes.

    www.shoebank.com I think they are just about at $200

    After you find the style, call this number and you can order over the phone. 262-284-7158
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2014


  15. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think you should pick up a pair of AE's. Don't lie to your dad (of course), but tell him the virtues of buying decent quality shoes. He will likely wear out 5-6 lower quality shoes in the time it takes him to wear out these (i.e. the kind of sound investment you'd like to see your minister make). Also, AE's don't look like luxury shoes, and therefore doesn't imply him being particularly indulgent and/or vain.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2014


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