Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Noodles, 3.75 inches is pretty wide for your frame. I get my Hober grenadines at 3.5 inches in width and I'm 6'2 and 190 pounds.

    Edit: By the way, yours are fine. I'm simply making a suggestion for future orders.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2014


  2. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Yes. I am fine with the 3 that I have and never thought that they were that wide until I saw it in numbers.
    If they make it exactly the same as last time then I have nothing to worry about. I am sure they'll do well.
    I just have a trauma from Cappelli.

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]


    I do not think these ties are disproportionate to my lapel width
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2014


  3. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    When you shorten the sleeves, I take it that the button holes are functional, you might run into the buttons now being too close to the cuff. The alternative is to take it in from the top at the shoulder, but (a) you'll need a good tailor and (b) there is pattern matching at the chest and arm with the checks, and that will get thrown off with that method.

    You might have to decide on the lesser of two evils, but if the two, I'd pick the buttons too close to the cuff. No one else will notice it unless you go to an SF meetup, and probably not even then. The pattern matching looks great.

    Hopefully, you won't need more than an inch on the sleeve thought or it came with buttons off.
     


  4. aglose

    aglose Senior member

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    RE the jacket, this is not what I wore today, I just poped it over today's clothes to get feedback on the fit. I was thinking a solid blue shirt, with a brown grenadine or brown knit maybe. The checks in the jacket are blue and orange.
    EDIT:speaking of which, where would be a good place to procure such a brown tie?
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2014


  5. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Just take a normal tie and do with it what you did with your fit.
     


  6. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    ^ LOL, the way you highlighted it, I really read 'a good place to produce such a brown tie' :D
     


  7. aglose

    aglose Senior member

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    ........... I think I can blame auto correct for that one. Going back to edit now..
     


  8. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    One thing I should have told you about the fit of the jacket but pulled back was. it divots a bit and to fix that they may have to release it from the center seam at the back and that will affect pattern matching. But it's not really an eyesore but just letting you know. Not a deal breaker in this case!


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2014


  9. aglose

    aglose Senior member

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    ^ it does divot, is that worth having fixed? Or should I just sell it and start over?
     


  10. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    YMMV

    If you are not the OCD type then have it let out at the center seam a bit if there is allowance and you don't mind imperfect patterns at the back. .
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2014


  11. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I would at this point post in the Tailor's feedback thread with specific questions. There are tailors "on call" there who will answer them.

    Also, you want to find a good tailor in your area, someone with experience and preferably not just an alterations tailor, in case you need complicated work done.

    I would be interested in how this problem can be fixed. As per Kulata's diagram a few pages back, this might be an insufficient overarm allowance as opposed to a divot in that the arm hole is too small. But verify with tailors, ask what the solution to the former is if any, and please do post back their answer here. The solution to the latter sounds expensive and complicated.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2014


  12. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    He needs a tailor's opinion but this is not a severe case.

    It looks like insufficient overarm allowance and it is causing the shoulders to divot. Divot is just the effect on the sleeves and it could be caused by several issues or combination of issues.
     


  13. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I've realised that if I'm not perfectly happy with something out of the box, or I know it can be tailored easily, I return it. I've had too many things in my closet that I never wore because they have some kind of issue. I've been selling all of those things and putting that money towards clothes that I know I will wear often.

    For example, I sold two shoes that didn't fit as well as I'd like in order to buy a pair of Carminas that I know fits perfectly. That's why I'm selling those Meermins for example, they're gorgeous boots and I had to wait 4 months for them, but they're a bit too big for me, which is why I hardly wear them. I'd focus on quality of fit and construction over anything else, because I'll end up wearing those 'perfect' items much more often.
     


  14. aglose

    aglose Senior member

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    MF I am the same way, I think I will just sell it and move on.
     


  15. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Just curious. What size is that Boglioli?
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2014


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