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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Pot calling the kettle....I heard Luca hooked you up with a bespoke banana hammock.
     
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  2. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    I WIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    is there a prize?
     
  3. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm a very difficult fit in RTW.
     
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  4. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Was Luca very hands on with the measurements?
     
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  5. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes and also took pictures to show to the tailor.
     
  6. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    I know there was talk about this earlier, but I'm having a suit altered this weekend and I was wondering what the preference was for leg opening. My favorite pants are in the 7.5-8 range, but that seems too small for suit pants, no?
     
  7. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    I'd say 8" to 8.5" for dress pants.

    I'm opposed to narrow leg openings for several reasons.

    I'm 6'1 and roughly 175 pounds and 8" or 8.25" is what I use.
     
  8. MGD83

    MGD83 Senior member

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    Really it depends on your shoe size, what type of lasts you prefer, how much break you like on your pants, etc. I wear size 10 1/2 - 11 US so anything narrower then 8 1/2" to 8 3/4" make my shoes look like skis.
     
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  9. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Depends on body type (length/weight ratio) and shoe size, IMO. I have small feet, so I use 7"
     
  10. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    6'2", 190 pounds, size 12 feet and my sweet spot is between 8.5 inches and 8.75 inches.
     
  11. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    5'10" & 183 pounds. I lift weights, so I'm built above the waist. Prefer high rise, no break and chiseled lasted shoes. Shoe size is UK7,5-8. Leg opening prefered is 7,75-8". If I wear more rounded lasts I usually prefer 8".

    It's all a matter of proportions, build, and harmony.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2014
  12. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    Based on everyone's response (all good advice), let us know your body type and shoe size and we may be able to guide you more accurately
     
  13. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    I find that depends somewhat on the size of the shoes I like to wear with the suit.
     
  14. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Okay thanks guys!

    For reference, I'm 5'10 and about 165 lbs. I'm a 40-42 jacket depending on the cut and a 30-32 inch waist. So about 10 drop.

    I wear an 8E/8.5D shoe, so I have relatively small feet for my body. I guess I should stick to around 8-8.5 in that case? I think the 7.5 I have looks great, but it seems small for a suit, no?

    I'm probably going to get the pants cuffed if there's enough fabric. I like the break way better that way and prefer one break/no break.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2014
  15. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    We're not too far apart. I'd suggest 7.75-8.25 inches as your sweet spot. I think 8.5 inches will be too big through the leg. In my view, you want to cover enough of the shoe so that it some of the laces are visible but doesn't look like duck feet. I've found 8 inches a good compromise (9D, 6 feet, 33 waist, 38R). 7.75 is pushing it for trousers with coat/tie for me but for casual wear, I think it would be fine.

    Here's a pic albeit with unfinished pants not fully pulled tight to the shoe with a 7.75 inch trouser opening. I'd go no smaller.

    [​IMG]

    Of course, will depend on the shoe, outfit, casual versus formal etc. Trimmer for causal I'd say.
     
  16. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Why don't you throw on the 7.5 inch with the shoe you think appropriate and people can give you specific feedback?
     
  17. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    @ridethecliche I am same height and weight as you but with a 9.5US shoe. I stick to 8-8.25" leg opening. I think 8' would be perfect for a suit for you and you can go slimmer on more casual pants if desired.
     
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  18. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    Introducing first, from the red corner. weighing 175 pounds at 5'11"... he hails from Springfield, VA, ...HEAVYWEIGHT CHAMPION OF THE WORLD
    Nooooo
    Daaaaaaaaaaaalssssssssss

    Cmon, wouldnt your tailor know what is appropriate?

    And will DonRafa show us the Zegna suit that he purchased?
     
  19. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    Totally forgot about that. Will do next time I wear it. That's a promise!
     
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  20. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Noodals, c'mon man start hitting that gym! I'm still gaining weight but going to slow down for now while I prepare for interviews.

    As for the tailor, I like a local seamstress. She does good work and works with me to get the results I need and the prices are reasonable. This is a navy brooks brothers golden fleece suit that I bought from someone on here. The leg opening is 9.25 and the thigh is like 13.25. I'm going to have it slimmed down a bit on the waist and all the way through. The jacket fits beautifully, might be a touch big on the shoulders (19 inches), but I can move way more freely in it than others in the 18-18.5 range I have. I also expect to put on some more mass on my shoulders over the next couple of months, which is why I sized up slightly!

    I'm going to have the waist slimmed a hair and it'll be purrrfect :)

    Now to find a new home for the BB suit I outgrew heh.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2014
    1 person likes this.

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