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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Funny, I finally enjoyed my knit tie the other day, i.e. enjoyed wearing it for the airy quality of the weave. Made me think, however, that I should get a grenadine that is unlined for casual outfits. But I think a pointed knit is actually a nice way to go. Thanks for the idea.
     


  2. Slippybee

    Slippybee Senior Member

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    Sunspel or Orlebar Brown.
     


  3. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Distinguished Member

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    Fit pics! Not the best, but it'll have to do. Nip it in the waist or not? I also have a more general question for future purchases/commissions: should I keep going for a natural shoulder/spalla camicia like this, or would a roped shoulder be more fitting for my physique?

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  4. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    That's you're second SP, right? They look very good on you. I wouldn't touch the waist on that. As for the shoulder, the soft looks great but I think the roped would as well.
     


  5. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Distinguished Member

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    ^ I think it's okay as is; depends how much waist suppression you like and whether you can comfortably nip it without any pulling happening at the buttoning point. As far as the shoulder, the current jacket seems to suit you fine, though it would be interesting to see you in a jacket with a roped shoulder to compare.
     


  6. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    I think there's a tendency to over-pinch the waist among the iGent sorority. Leave it as it is, it looks fitted but also comfortable and masculine. The shoulders look OK too - I think the only place shirt shoulders really fail is on someone who has a prominently long neck or whose shoulders drop at a steep angle. Noodles might run into this problem. In his case, a little padding to shape and straighten the shoulders isn't a bad thing. In yours, I think you can probably get away with most things, and this looks pretty good.
     


  7. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice MF

    I vote for not touching the waist. It is clearly suppressed to some degree at waist and I think anymore would over accentuate your waist, which when too extreme is to my eye effeminate. I think the lines are quite nice. Where are you picking these up?
     


  8. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Distinguished Member

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    Yep, I think it's the same model/cut as the other one. Got this one for just $650, cheaper than some of my SuitSupply suits! The Italian seller had this one wrongly listed as tweed, which probably caused others to steer clear of it.

    I might just look for a roped shoulder on suits from now on, and save the spalla camicia for odd jackets. A natural shoulder does wear very comfortably though, and it does offer more ease of movement. Something I'll have to think about.

    Thank you for all the replies, gents! I'll leave the suit as is.
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2014


  9. jungleroller

    jungleroller Distinguished Member

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    Where did you pick that up MF? I think it looks great!
     


  10. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Monkeyface, I wouldn't touch the waist, and I like this shoulder on you.
     


  11. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Distinguished Member

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    @Monkeyface : that's a good question regarding shoulders. Like you, I've got fairly prominent shoulders. I"ve asked the same question and been told that I need to stay with natural shoulders as roped shoulders would accentuate my shoulders too much. Yet, I've recently picked up a few E. Zegna jackets that have a roped shoulder with little padding and think they look better than the natural shoulders. I'm curious to hear others' thoughts on the question you posed.
     


  12. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Second glance, looks really good actually. Reminds me of Murls Formosa pics. Need to press That lapel.
     


  13. kulata

    kulata Distinguished Member

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    I sent u a link to the same store on ebay Lol. :D

    Nice suit MF and the shoulders work on u, but I feel any shoulder will work on you
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2014


  14. jungleroller

    jungleroller Distinguished Member

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    I knew I had seen it somewhere! Thanks!
     


  15. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    I rarely post pics to this thread, but I thought I should submit this new jacket for comment. Almost completely unstructured (just some light fusible in the chest), 78/22 wool/cotton. You are seeing the shape of my shoulders in all their glory. :) Pants are also new: Incotex chinolino.

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