Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Likes Received:
    1,559
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    
    I felt no tightness in the armpits. SA said the shoulders were too big so he recommended 38R.

    Fact is, I believe Monkeyface has pointed this out, my weight gain has contributed to fat buildup in my chest and tummy. I just need to get rid of this....honey moon fat. :D
     
  2. kulata

    kulata Senior member

    Messages:
    2,837
    Likes Received:
    4,791
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2008
    
    From what I have observed the same issue will happen with roped shoulder if it isn't cut properly or the suit gets tight across the shoulder blades (small overarm measurement). [​IMG] I started lifting weights and doing serious back exercises and most of my jackets started to divot so I read up on it before taking it to my tailor to fix the ones that could be salvaged. Divots on a roped shoulder
    [​IMG]
    Tailors on divots
    http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/...-and-alteration-suggestions/4725#post_7068852
     
  3. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Dubiously Honored Moderator

    Messages:
    11,040
    Likes Received:
    17,969
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2009
    Location:
    English Flower Garden
  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    15,905
    Likes Received:
    19,241
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
    It can be very good, but sometimes it's :brick:
     
  5. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Dubiously Honored Moderator

    Messages:
    11,040
    Likes Received:
    17,969
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2009
    Location:
    English Flower Garden
  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,121
    Likes Received:
    2,552
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    I think it has found a group of like minded, interested folks of similar understanding of and taste in clothes. Not everyone is at the Good Taste level, but everyone is keen. I think it might last a bit longer than the Good Taste thread, given new blood, sometimes old blood, and different samples of topics (some great, some not so, as SB noted).
     
  7. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,121
    Likes Received:
    2,552
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Thanks for gathering these Tailor comments,@kulata

    Somewhere in the recesses of SF, Despos had a nice way of illustrating the basic idea JeffD is explaining and it's how I remember it. Take a disk and a circle with a smaller diameter, e.g. a rubber band. To fit the larger disk into the circle, you have to distort the circle to elongate it so as to accommodate the disk. In a jacket, this makes the arm hole collapse into a divot.

    You can see this easily in your own jacket. Go to the arm hole and grab it along the two endpoints of the diameter parallel to the ground and slowly pull the hole wider (front and back, essentially what you'd have to do to the rubber band). You will slowly see a divot form.

    As I said earlier, I don't think that's what is happening in Rudals case but is insufficient accommodation of the overarm measurement (for which you give a figure).
     
  8. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Senior member

    Messages:
    1,227
    Likes Received:
    478
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2013
    Location:
    Maryland
    Snuff. Actually picked them up after seeing photos of your doeskin pair. I'll take some pics this week, took them drinking yesterday and they need some scrubbing.
     
  9. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Likes Received:
    1,559
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    
    I am to blame for the latter.
    I know I just crank out dumb questions and thoughts. But I'll make a good decision very soon and turn the corner on suits. I can definitely tone myself down. But I hope others step it up. This thread is lucky to have regulars who are very helpful. I don't have to name them but you know who you are.
     
  10. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,897
    Likes Received:
    4,745
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    My new Sartoria Partenopea suit arrived today! It fits pretty much perfectly and the grey herringbone fabric is beautiful! I'll post a fitpic later, as I'm doubting whether to surpress the waist a little.

    A pair of black cap toe Carminas arrived at the same time, and I'm very impressed with the quality. My CBD wardrobe is nearing completion, but I'm still waiting for some Luxire hidden BD shirts to arrive, and then I'm done with shopping for a while.
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2014
  11. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,093
    Likes Received:
    2,631
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2011
    Let's see the pictures!
     
  12. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Likes Received:
    1,559
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    Okay.
    The suit we can await on but what about the Carminas? How do they compare to other notible shoemakers?
     
  13. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,897
    Likes Received:
    4,745
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    I don't have much experience with the really high end (EG, etc.) shoes besides trying them on in store, but the finishing seems to be on par with the likes of Alfred Sargent, and the leather is very nice as well. They're definitely punching above their weight when you're looking at the price/quality ratio. I'd put them slightly above C&J because of that, especially with the free shipping deal that's going on at the moment.
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2014
  14. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,807
    Likes Received:
    954
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2010
    Location:
    Boston
    I think Carmina stand toe to toe (no pun intended) with some of the higher end shoemakers - I really think EG are pretty overrated/overpriced as are some others.

    At the very least, they aren't 2.5-3x better quality to justify 2.5-3x higher price.
     
  15. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,093
    Likes Received:
    2,631
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2011
    I've had C&J benchgrade and handgrade. I think Carmina is better quality wise than benchgrade and at the same level as handgrade.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by