Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Rudals, if you feel the chest tight… I dunno, maybe try the 42? If that is the Milano or Roma cut, can quite remember which one is the slim fit, it is quite small. On those cuts I have to use a 46.
     


  2. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    46?!!!!!!
    Stop with the crazy work outs Betel. Lol. Yes, that is the Milano and no, that is not a slim one. That's Torino. Roma has been phased out long ago.

    Listen y'all. I was just trying it on. It was a size up of what I usually wear. All my Zegnas are 38R and none fit well so I tried on a 40R.
     


  3. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Good you tried it on Rudals, keep doing that. I also liked your own analysis. Sometimes a cut just doesn't work for you, no matter what size you try on.
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2014


  4. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    are you calling betel fat? :mad:

     


  5. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    :lol:
     


  6. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    IMO this is all because Noodles seems to be obsessed about very close fitting shoulders. But since his shoulders are narrow in relation to his chest and his hips, he will have these issues of tightness around the chest and quarters pulling open. The resulting somewhat pear shaped silhouette is not flattering him. On top of that, his shoulders appear rather round shaped, with substantial upper arms, which results in those divots.
    I've said it before and I'll say it again: I believe he should not go for a close fitting natural shoulder, but for a slightly extended roped shoulder. Anyway, just my $0.02....
     


  7. calypso

    calypso Senior member

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    • Rudals have you considered Zegna su misura... would not that be an option? And it´s not that much more expensive. (I think)
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2014


  8. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Extended shoulders needs a bit of structure and Noodles with his narrow shoulders possibly has big shoulder blades hence the divots (fabric is pulling at the blades most likely not 100% certain). But I like the fact that he is trying things on and educating himself on fit that works for him. That's all I ask of him.


    But another current season Zegna!!! Come on now Rudals!!! :foo::foo::foo:

    Brands Readily Available in Stores that may work
    Oxxford 1220 and Type A
    Corneliani Leader
    Suitsupply La Spalla
    Suitsupply Napoli (L size)
    Suitsupply [insert any DB]

    When you know your measurements and other variables like second nature and you are ready to shop online and return if it doesn't work out then try the following:
    Sartoria Partenopea (Some have small lapels though)
    La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
    Sartoria Attolini
    Stile Latino
    Pal Zileri Sartoriale (the Sartoriale line is cut with extended shoulders and generous lapels )
    Luciano Barbera Sartoriale (Either made by St Andrews or Attolini. They have good shoulder extension and generous lapels)
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2014


  9. Putonghua73

    Putonghua73 Senior member

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    This.

    In the opening chapter of 'Dressing the Man', Flusser makes the comparison between clothing and architecture: both have underlying principles based upon structure. In terms of clothing [suit / odd jackets], it is a man's physiology - his physical proportions - that governs what cut / style is most appropriate for his features. For all the love of everything Neapolitan, the cut and attitude will not be appropriate to all. As mentioned before, my particular physique - narrow, rounded shoulders - requires more structure in the shoulder. Also, I do not have a sprezzatura temperament; more akin to a Princess Leia personality.

    I'm surprised that Slewfoot's posts of his Steed outfits haven't received comment regarding extenuating his hips, giving him a very feminine cut.

    Rudals, start with measuring yourself, and then looking for suits that are appropriate to your physiology. I note that you have a long neck and that you feel that you have a large face / head in proportion to your body. You ought to have wider lapels rather than skinny, to balance out your slighter wider face. As others have stated, you need to get used to trying on a wide variety of outfits in different sizes (size up and down) and observe yourself from the front, side and back.

    I find trying on clothes a chore, and my overriding goal was to find something I like, see if it vaguely fits, buy it and get the hell out of the shop. I've turned my goal on it's head. I need to plan when I will go looking for clothes, and have a good idea of what I want in my mind, then go by myself (no girlfriend) and try on a variety of outfits with the overriding aim to see what is a good fit and works with my physiology. If I'm not 100% happy, no sale! I haven't always achieved this goal, which is why it is important to only go looking for outfits when one is in the appropriate mental state of mind to avoid expensive mistakes. A good returns policy is worth its weight in gold for the latter e.g. I bought a tan linen sports-coat from Gant, mainly due to my girlfriend. When I tried it on at home, I wasn't entirely convinced it was a good purchase. Fortunately, Gant have an excellent returns policy, and I hadn't worn the jacket outside my house, so I was able to return the garment and credit my credit card with minimal fuss.

    Don't rush the process, Rudals. Impulse purchases leads to the Devil's road re: excessive credit card bills and having your outfits excoriated on SF.
     


  10. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Divots are more about construction than fit. The sleeve head is too big for the jacket. I guess if one had well developed delts theyd push it smooth...
     


  11. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Sleeve head is one factor, shoulder blades is another factor according to Jeffryd and i have experienced both in jackets have tried on or owned. The reason I'll never own a Cantarelli.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2014


  12. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    So, Rudals, start working out your shoulders! I bet your arms are more developed than your shoulders from doing lots of isolation exercises such as curls instead of full body exercises. Start doing pull ups, military press/shoulder press and perhaps some lateral raises to even things out again.. Make sure you use good form to avoid injuries.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2014


  13. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Apologies for my very poor illustrating talents, but this is what I think is happening in Noodles case:
    1. The sleeve on a jacket with a natural shoulder will 'bump' against his full upper arm, causing a divot to appear.
    2. With a roped shoulder, the sleeve's outer edge is a bit more extended, falling smoothly along his upper arm (at least, that's what we hope...)

    [​IMG]
    Edit: I just learned from the post below that the dent we see in your pic is not a divot. Sorry, obviously I'm not familiar enough with the vocabulary, but I think it's still clear what I mean.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2014


  14. Robstrongo

    Robstrongo Senior member

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    ^ This

    @Rudals Did the jacket feel tight and restrictive under your armpits? The shoulder width looks fine and I'm guessing that this issue is caused by the armhole being to tight to accommodate the width of your upper arm and possibly also being too tight in your chest. This also would explain why it's only on the right side assuming that is your dominant arm. I could be completely off since I'm only trying to tell by looking at one picture, but this is probably one of the most common problems I have had personally with RTW. The fact that the SA tried to recommend you a 38 when the 40 clearly looks to tight should explain exactly how you ended up in the predicament you are in to begin with.
     


  15. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Good advice. Thx.
    I do curls with 40lbs dumbbells.
    I will focus on shoulder exercises.
    I hate having narrow shoulders.
     


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