Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

[Murlsquirl]

The cut of that jacket doesn't work for you and the shoulders are too big. They day I listen to a SA at a department store is the day I start subscribing to GQ...a very sad one.

 

[jrd617]

I thought you took a firm stance again slimmer than Formosa lapels? Decided that was too extreme a stance? Oh, Noodles

On the shoulder's, I can't make a call without a better picture. It's shot from a low angle. In fact, I can't assess the fit of anything because the picture angle is so poor

At the moment, though, they don't look too wide. I don't know where @Murlsquirl is coming from? A little bit of overhang is okay. I actually prefer slightly extended shoulders because I have a big head. So did this guy

 

[Rudals]

Yup. Thats a 40R.

 

[jrd617]

Bring a measuring tape next time and measure the width of the shoulders. That's how I always decide if I'm on the fence or can't gauge using a mirror

 

[Murlsquirl]

Slight extension can work with soft/natural shoulders, but not those. It looks like they are extended to the point where they dimple / crease. That's just what I got out of that picture.

 

[AJL]



I thought you took a firm stance again slimmer than Formosa lapels? Decided that was too extreme a stance? Oh, Noodles

On the shoulder's, I can't make a call without a better picture. It's shot from a low angle. In fact, I can't assess the fit of anything because the picture angle is so poor

At the moment, though, they don't look too wide. I don't know where @Murlsquirl is coming from? A little bit of overhang is okay. I actually prefer slightly extended shoulders because I have a big head. So did this guy

Gotta side with Murl on this one: shoulders look lumpy and overextended in a not good way, part. right shoulder.

 

[jrd617]

Dunno if I agree with that tautology, Murl

Cary Grant's shoulders were not soft in that pic. That NxNW suit was made by Kilgour, which I believe does a military or equestrian cut with a structured shoulder

Edit: yep, they were padded

The suit jacket has a 3-button front rolled to the middle button. Though some people have the idea that this suit has no darts like the American sack, there are indeed darts to shape the front. The shoulders are padded and straight with roped sleeveheads.

http://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/?p=864

 

[jrd617]

He also appears to be leaning to the side with the extension

Point is, I'm not ready to make a definitive ruling until we get a better pic

Gotta side with Murl on this one: shoulders look lumpy and overextended in a not good way, part. right shoulder.

 

[Murlsquirl]



^ Cary Grant's shoulders were not soft in that pic either. That NxNW suit was made by Kilgour, which I believe does a military or equestrian cut with a structured shoulder

Fair nuff...but it doesn't work with the jacket Rudals is wearing. I'm guessing it has to due with the construction of the chest, back, sleeve, etc. Key word being, "guessing".

I agree with you....my judgement was premature and based on a crap picture.

 

[jrd617]

Rudals posted a picture of the grey Zegna not too long ago that was taken at a low angle. It appeared "pear shaped" in that pic

Then when he posted a normal pic, the apparent "pear shape" was no longer present

@gdl203 not this, I think

 

[Rudals]

Better(?) Pic with commentary.

Side note: Asked wife to pick me out a nice tie at Neiman Marcus. She took a look. Then she said just order the one she picked out from Vanda. Lol

 

[Spandexter]

Noodles, you seem to have quite high expectations of a RTW. Sure, the shoulders aren't as good as they could be but the chest tightness and slight pull are barely evident and IMO the open quarters aren't an issue (but each to their own). Point being: 99% of people are not going to notice these things and it is highly likely your grail Formosa will also have issues, so go easy on yourself otherwise you are only ever going to be happy with bespoke.

 

[Murlsquirl]

I stand by my shoulder comment...the right is a little off. Overall, the fit is not bad at all.

 

[Evolve]



Noodles, you seem to have quite high expectations of a RTW. Sure, the shoulders aren't as good as they could be but the chest tightness and slight pull are barely evident and IMO the open quarters aren't an issue (but each to their own). Point being: 99% of people are not going to notice these things and it is highly likely your grail Formosa will also have issues, so go easy on yourself otherwise you are only ever going to be happy with bespoke.

Agreed that the quarters aren't an issue. I like them as is on that jacket. Those shoulders, though, would be a deal killer for me, RTW or not.

 

[TweedyProf]

Rudals,

I don't think that's a divot. @Despos explains this somewhere in the Tailor's thread where this is just due to the fact that you have a large muscle/bulk in that area of the upper arm. I think that a tailor normally also measures the width of your body around your arms there to accommodate that extra bulk when the jacket is cut. This jacket just doesn't accommodate that part of your arm (and several of your other suits, the Zegnas, do not either). Hence, it bulges, but it's not creating a divot. Just a guess.