Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. mothon

    mothon Senior member

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    Why not just get a Kent Wang suit made for Noodles? Just order the RTW suit in 40R, then pick a fabric and make adjustments as needed to the fit,lapel width,button stance...etc. I know its MTM but it same like it is fairly safe since you try the suit first them make adjustments. If the RTW suit doesn't fit at all just return it and move on.

    [​IMG]
     


  2. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    This is actually a pretty good suggestion. If the sample suit is a good fit and minimal adjustments are needed, move forward with it. If too many adjustments are needed, return and wait for a Formosa.
     


  3. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    I think at this point, Rudals is just going to get frustrated by the overload of information/suggestions.

    Rudals, if I want advice, there are 2-3 people whose style I admire and opinion I really value. I usually just email/PM these guys if I'm stuck on something and continue to scour the forum to educate myself. Might be something to consider so you don't get too overloaded, confused, and frustrated.
     


  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    This also seems like a reasonable option which only further illustrates my point.
     


  5. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    MTM is a process that often results in subpar fits in it's early stages. If it's screwed up, you're stuck with it and probably can't even sell it.


    Personally, i feel Rudals needs to give suitsupply another try based on his new knowledge of his size, I feel he gave it a lukewarm effort the first time, and see what works while transitioning to a better brand. If i remember correctly, the ones he tried had way better shoulder silhouettes than all the zegnas.

    Or just get what he wants (Formosa DB), which he plans on getting on the long run anyways. Nothing wrong getting it early and it's not like his current suits are totally unwearable. He can still get a lot of mileage out of them.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2014


  6. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Thanks Kulata.
    I did give a half arse attempt at suit supply indeed. I will save up for the sb Formosa. Until then I will sell all my current suits...
     


  7. mothon

    mothon Senior member

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    I feel like with Kent Wang MTM is way easier to get a good suit your first try.

    The Formosa suit may not fit him any better KW.
     


  8. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    @Murlsquirl is more qualified to respond to this since he has suits from both makers.
     


  9. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Formosa is a better fit for me straight OTR, but that won't be everyone's outcome. If the KW trial suit fits well, I think we have seen the results are very good. The trial suit was less than ideal for me, but I thought I could get a good fit after they made adjustments. They did "everything within their systems parameters" and the results was ok, not great. Formosa just fits me extremely well (I think) and given the fabrics and construction, I am willing to pay the price.
     


  10. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    I'd like a bit of advice about suits too. I'm only slightly less n00b than n00dals after all. Anyway I thought I'd re-post a few recent suit fits side-by-side, and ask the hive mind which ones fit me the best, which ones don't fit, and which ones could be made to fit after a few adjustments.

    Just for a bit of background, I'm 180cm/5'11" and weigh 80kg.

    In order, they are Canali - Canali - Caruso (3pc) - Tom Ford - SuitSupply (DB) - vintage (DB). Four of these suits have been nipped/tucked in various ways, two of them are just as I bought them OTR (apart from hemming and maybe taking in the trousers). None are bespoke or MTM.

    For the purposes of this exercise I only seek feedback regarding the fit of the suit, not colour matching or any other aspect. Am I getting the fit right? Which, if any, are your favourites, and why?

    Thanks in advance, Noodles' Good Natured Advice Thread.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    ps - I lead with my right foot in order to bring forward the pocket square, in case anyone is curious. Worked this pose out a while back.
     


  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    They all look quite heavily constructed. TF carries that look off best I think. Waistcoat should be longer or pants rise higher though.
     


  12. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Well spotted. As neither of those modifications are possible, perhaps I should
    - get some brace buttons sewn in and wear braces under the waistcoat in order to hitch the pents up a little?
    - Or have the waistline brought in a tad so that the pents sit higher on my hips (probably at the same time having them lengthened by a cm or so)?
    - Or just forget the waistcoat and wear the suit as a 2-piece (which I have done, and it works fine)? But I do like the look of this suit as a 3-pc.
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2014


  13. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    If you can do this without being uncomfortable or making the pants too short, this would be my choice.
     


  14. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Cox

    A lot of data! In general, in terms of fit from a glance (button stance, length, etc.) they look fine though would be easier to assess in a standard pose with arms at the sides. On earlier posts, I was wondering if on some of your SBs, whether it might be a touch small in chest or at waist, but it's hard to be sure given how you're posing (e.g. with hand in pocket). In the first, that pose is probably what's causing the right lapel to bow.

    You have a good physique it seems, so I suspect easier to wear things well.

    Question to you: what is the trajectory you want from these pics to where you want to be? That is, is there something that you are wondering about, questioning, and wish to change?

    For example, following up on unbel's point, do you want a strong shoulder or something more natural, less constructed?
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2014


  15. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    I wanted to know if these suits actually fit me. I think my eye has maybe got better, but I'm still amazed from time to time at the pinpoint accuracy with which other posters can identify fitting flaws in photos posted on this board.

    You included. A lot of my jackets have lapels which bow outwards. Seems I have a bit of a barrel chest. RTW garments which fit me in every other respect often seem a little tight across the chest. Alas, this is not due to huge manly pecs, but just a big rib cage. Looking at the six suits above, I can see a bit of bowing on the first suit but none of the others. However, several of my SCs suffer from this.

    If I can be happy that I've learned enough to recognise which clothes actually fit me, then I can stop worrying about that and move on to finessing other aspects of dressing - colour and texture matching, coherence, and the development of a personal style.

    I think I've already decided that unstructured shoulders are not ideal for me. However, I do have a couple of jackets without much padding in the shoulders. Might hunt down some shots of those and post them later.
     


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