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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. DeSense

    DeSense Distinguished Member

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    I'm in a similar "position", 6'2, long legs, so the 50R works like you described. Ideal might be 2cm longer. I'm in on the f/w suit MTO and wonder whether I should have gone for 50L, assuming the cut pattern exists at SartForm, as it would clearly improve the top/bottom half ratio fit.
    When I check the 52R vs L measurements it show around 3cm are added.
    Are you in on the MTO? If so, with R or L?
    (@gdl203, too)
    (Maybe I should have put this in the NMWA thread but as we are discussing Formosa fits here, it seems appropriate?)
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2014


  2. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Not lines up - that would be too short. It should go at least a little bit past the inverted "vee". If the pants fit right and you set them to where they should be on your waist, then this spot shouldn't change. If it's a suit, then you'll always be wearing those same pants anyway.
     


  3. AJL

    AJL Distinguished Member

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    I see. Well either one of these fits passes that test, the Formosa obviously running a bit farther past.

    You're a knowledgable fellow in these matters; what's your take on the visual evidence before you? The Isaia short measures 29" in length, while the Formosa reg runs to about 30.3" Greg informs me the Formosa short would go to about 29.6" or thereabouts. I'm inclined to go with the Formosa short, thereby effectively splitting the difference in length between these two jackets. Greg favors the reg Formosa straight up at 30.3" as seen here, though honestly I've never owned a jacket that long, so there's also a psychological component for me.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2014


  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    To my eye, the longer jackets make your legs look too short. I'm not sure what jrd's on about, though. All of them cover your ass. As I mentioned above, if the longer jacket is worn as part of a suit, the effect will be minimized. But the better look is the short.
     


  5. jrd617

    jrd617 Stylish Dinosaur

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    JL hadn't properly labeled the shots. I thought we were only looking at 48 vs 50, not 48S, 48R, 50R etc

    The 48S looks best then. The 40R does not look "bad." It is just a little longer, within acceptable range.

     


  6. jrd617

    jrd617 Stylish Dinosaur

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    How tall are you, AJL?
     


  7. AJL

    AJL Distinguished Member

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  8. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Apropos discussion of B&S a few posts back, I've an Inis Meain cashmere/wool (30/70) sweater I need to unload. It's this one or a version of this:

    http://inismeain.ie/product/a1243-donegal-purl-vneck-brown-donegal-tweed

    It's got a beautiful hand, lovely color, visual interest and texture. It's marked as medium, but I think it's really more a large. New with tags (Barneys: list $475)

    Lying flat:

    P2P 21.5 inches
    Shoulder 19 inches (seam to seam)
    Sleeve Approx 19 inches on the inside/23.5 inches on the outside
    Back length 26 inches

    These measurements are closer to the large on the IM website though the sleeves on mine are a little longer. Go figure.

    I found that it fit me a bit too big in the shoulders and slightly large in the chest though I'm normally a 39R. The weave is relaxed. I'm a 34 sleeve in shirts and this works fine perhaps because the material stretches. Best to measure a good sweater of your own. I'm guessing if you are a US 42 or so, this would work.

    I'm offering it here to Noodlers who are active participant in the thread or in SF in general before trying B&S. If you are interested, please PM me for the price. Let us just say I got a really good deal on it and am happy to pass it on to comrades here. Again, PM only if you've been active in the thread or SF.
     


  9. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    I didn't jump on the MTO...nothing I needed/wanted. I'm still hoping a grey flannel gets returned. After all this crazy length talk, I went home yesterday and put on my suit to double check everything. I like it and I think the length looks great... It easily passes Unbel's crotch test too. I think when I order a MTO SC it might be a 50L, but for suits, I like my 50R.
     


  10. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    That's the crucial bit. Once you're in an acceptable range, this is what matters.
     


  11. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Distinguished Member

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    Sorry, but I think we need to put a stop to the Unbel crotch test before it gathers steam. I have seen the future of this test and it involves close-ups of members' crotches and careful analysis by all regarding how the jacket falls with regard to the V in the crotch. It also involves confused wives and girlfriends seeing these blow-up crotch shots on the computer monitor and deciding it's time for a talk.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2014


  12. Rudals

    Rudals Distinguished Member

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  13. DeSense

    DeSense Distinguished Member

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    Thanks for the encouraging FB, Murls. I have had the same sinking feeling that I might have missed something and will probably still take some daylight time tomorrow for a thorough check taking hilarious selfies.
    BTW, wasn't there a grey flannel suit in the MTO?
     


  14. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Yep, but I can't get down with herringbone. Don't like it.
     


  15. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    :eek:

    i have seen that fabric in person and its amazing. also, my DB is a herringbone. you cant really see if from a few feet out tho.
     


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