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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Senior member

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    The seat at the bottom of his buttocks is sloppy and resembles the creases seen in poorly wrapped diapers
     
  2. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    I primarily wear Howard Yount and Marcoliani. HY may actually be made by Marcoliani, but not sure. You do have to try multiple brands and find what works best for you. Some of the high end socks such as Sozzi and Palatino that I have tried were too thin for my liking. I have hairy legs (delete mental picture), so my hair actually pokes through the thinner socks. I know others that love thinner socks. Buy a couple pairs from the brands suggested by Murl & me....that should give you a good start.
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2014
  3. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    These socks from ASW are basically all I wear:

    http://www.asuitablewardrobe.net/cl...h-a-subtly-contrasting-vertical-rib-4327.html

    I have many pairs, and they all get worn frequently. I've had maybe one or two get ripped in a year and a half or so of wearing them.

    (disclaimer: I write for Will's blog but do not make any commissions of any sales)
     
  4. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    ^ Damn, $25 a pair for cottons?

    I buy Pantharella wools on clearance from STP for ~$10 each
     
    2 people like this.
  5. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    They're not cheap, true. They're also pretty thin, so if you're looking for thicker socks, look elsewhere. But fwiw I have a couple of pairs of pantherella and prefer these. The contrasting rib is interesting and they never fall down.
     
  6. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Will's socks are Bresciani, which I stock as well. I used to sell Pantherella's but the Bresciani's are a much better sock and the mid calf ones stay up a lot better than the Pantherella equivalent. The cotton ribbed ones are generally thin yes, but the patterned ones like herringbone's, houndstooth's and pindot's are thicker. I get very hot feet in summer so I appreciate a thinner more breathable sock.
     
  7. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've picked up Falke's and Pantharella's through sales at STP for about $8-13 a pair (cotton versus merino). The pantharella's are ok, and while I would buy them again at discount, there are better options, I think.

    I prefer the Falke's though they have many different "kinds". I have four paris from Bresciani through Mr. Porters when they would drop 50% in the first day of the sale (so about $15 a pair; first drops are only 30% now and they still sell out fast). They are great, I love them. Henry Carter is having a sale on them now at 30% but I think shipping from Aus would diminish the saving for us in the US. There's a subtle blue houndstooth I particularly like.

    You don't need a ton, of course (not like buying tube socks as a kid), so I think spending a bit more for a few comfortable, breathable and reasonably long wearing socks is worth it.
     
  8. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Pantherella don't seem to make long socks in 100% natural fibres, which I prefer. Bresciani do, and I love mine (very similar to those from Henry Carter). I also get Gammarelli (luxurious wool) and Mazarin (light but robust 100% cotton) from www,meschausettesrouges.com, and some absolutely brilliantly bullet-proof cotton ones from www.blacksocks.com, though their selection is limited. All three companies(Henry Carter, MCR and Blacksocks) give excellent service.
     
  9. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I just wanted to note about "fullness" in the leg. I have to say these look smashing. There's no need to go slimmer as people are wont to do, perhaps. The lines along the leg are clean and it's a nice balance of substantial and lean.

    What's the ankle cuff measurement (width)? Are these from Luxire and if so, how was the process?

    [I see what you mean about the seat though I wouldn't sweat it too much].
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Quick question for you guys.

    I was thinking of picking up a jacket with sleeve's that are too long and having them shortened. I'd be taking approximately 1-1.5 inches off, so we'd be at the 1st button. Would removing the button and the faux buttonhole stitching be noticeable or is it just better off passing on something like this due to the potential issues?
     
  11. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    I think a greater leg opening can look nice when the pants are creased like those are to appear more 'oval' from the front than 'stumpy'.

    I agree that it looks great!
     
  12. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    I don't like thin socks at all.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    I was thinking about this again and I was remembering the issue you mentioned once with some pair of Luxire trousers. That if you opened your stance a bit more the folds disappear so you just took in a bit the seat seam. Could this be somethingsimilar?

    Thanks. The leg opening is 22.7cm just a bit short of 9". These are not Luxire, I have another pair of trousers from Luxire that I use the measurements of a Zanella but the fit was not that good. I think that with these trouser measurements they can do a nice trouser. [​IMG]
     
  14. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    I've had the buttons moved and the faux buttonholes taken out of the sleeves of two Canali jackets, and with a decent tailor it won't be noticeable at all. If the jacket works for you, don't let sleeve shortening stand in your way!
     
  15. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    Most likely, the removed faux buttonhole stitching will be noticeable.
     
  16. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    Thanks for chiming in on socks, all. Based on your recommendations, I'm going to seek out some wool Pantharellas and some cotton Brescianis from ASW.
     
  17. Pingson

    Pingson Senior member

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    Shouldn't be much of a problem. A competent tailor will move the button and faux buttonholes if needed. The only thing to keep in mind is that with such a drastic shortening you might also need to slim the sleeves a little bit, otherwise the opening might be too wide. Not a complicated thing to do though.....
     
  18. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Stitch...and in the hot, muggy summer?
     
  19. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Depends on the material and how tight the stitches are. Might be problematic if cotton jacket (holes might show etc.), less so for wool. Color of jacket might hide this as will pattern. I.e. it depends.

    The last time I had a tailor do it, it was frustrating for him (he said it wasn't worth his time). He did it carefully, but I could notice a small hole, so there's some peril (the material was a light, hopsack like weave).
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Howard Yount trousers fit me really well. I fear for the future of the company however, so at some point might be forced to have the pants copied, should HY (god forbid) fold. I only say this because customer service has been precipitously dropping on various measures and that is never a good sign in a company.

    Luxire seems like (for now) an affordable option, so curious if people have tried the replication route from pants sent in.
     

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