Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    i think its a fine topic here. but you should PM spoo and tell him what you have and take it from there. my advise anyways. :)
     


  2. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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  3. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    The cut is what I would call a sigmoid curve. Quite narrow at the neck - probably too narrow for a single FIH. As you can see, I employed a double FIH and to my eye the knot came out just right.

    One comment from the WAYWRN gallery was that the tie was too formal for my otherwise rather rustic fit. So today I will try the same tie out with a "power suit". (Just sitting in my jarmies at brekkie now.)
     


  4. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    When I submitted my recent Cappelli order, I included a note with my preferred widths at the widest point, 18" from the tip, and 20" from the tip. (Yeah, that all sounds dirty, you reprobates.) I figured out those measurements based on OTR ties and a couple of rounds of orders with David Hober. The ties I received from Sig. Cappelli matched my request within normal tolerance.
     


  5. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Formosa fits.

    Not sure there's any Murl Miracles happening here, nonetheless I submit the following for review.
    Caveats: Could not find wool suit in 48 & 50, so opted for 1 wool and 1 cotton. The shoulders are different construction; one is spalla cadente, the other spalla camicia, so not sure how much of an apples to apples comparison that is between the sizes (perhaps @gdl203 can weigh in here). Also I should point out these are too long overall, and I would be ordering shorts in mto SC. Not sure if this changes anything besides overall sleeve and body length (possibly buttoning point shift?)

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    Last edited: May 28, 2014


  6. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    JL, I'm really glad it is going to work out. They look really good. I like the length and don't think they are too long...obviously the sleeves are way too long, but that's easy stuff. Overall, I think with some minor alterations you will be a very happy man.
     


  7. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I am finding it hard to tell from those pics. Again navel to chest height would be better. I think it might be a touch big but I also think the sleeves are skewing how it looks. Button stance seems fine at your natural waist. You want it higher?

    I'm an advocate of full length shot including feet to assess length. It is going past your thumbs but you could be long legged too. Looks ok in the cotton from back. Do you need a touch more in the hips? The cotton seems a little cleaner.
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2014


  8. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Man, you guys make it hard to critique anything... Crotch-level 20 degree angled shots with no real perspective on length because no full body shots... On those shots alone, I like the fit of the 48 a little better but the low angle makes it look like you have narrow shoulders and wide hips. I think that a better picture angle would not look like that. On those low angle pics, the slightly extended shoulders of the 40 look nicer but everything else feels a bit too big, especially the sleeves.

    Hard to say anything about length - any rules about knuckles and fingers are misleading. If length is about 1/2 of the distance between your collar to the ground (+/- 1.5"), you're golden

    All that said, I think the cut is quite flattering on you (both sizes really)
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2014


  9. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    may just be the really rough angle and the unfinished sleeves, but you look to be swimming in the 50 imo. i think the 48 frames you much nicer.
     


  10. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Thanks Murl, coming from the Man With the Golden Fit, that means something.

    I'm happy with the buttoning point, just curious if it changes from reg to short. Very close to my bbutton now, so +/- won't make much difference, purely curiosity.


    I shall make an effort to take a few full lengths. I agree the camera angle may be playing tricks, as I believe I have fairly broad shoulders in relation to my height/ build, and I don't think my hips are particularly wide. My midsection may be a different story, however. Which brings me to an interesting juncture: unlike w/ Noodles, no one noticed, or at least mentioned, any apparent tugging at the waist, yet there is very little play there in the 48; it's quite snug. Perhaps I can let the side seams out a touch, as someone suggested to Noodles regarding the 48. I have done this before successfully, or at least I believed it to be so (anyone see a problem with this?)

    And yes, I agree the sleeves are quite voluminous in the 50--I have slender forearms and wrists--and perhaps the chest is a bit generous as well. I have always leaned towards a more snug fitting shoulder, though the spalla camicia seems a different sort of animal. Not sure if the spalla cadente in a 50 would fit similarly, given that it appears to be slightly roped.

    My initial assessment: I think the 50 is a bit large overall, except possibly, as Greg pointed out, in the shoulders. Nonetheless, the shoulders in the 48 seem fine to me, though as I say the midsection is a bit on the snug side. Then again I wonder if the lines of the lapel fall a little cleaner on the 50 ( a very slight ripple on the 48 perhaps?) Nitpicking, yes, but That's What We Do [​IMG].

    Slightly farmisht at the moment (cue stitchie)
     


  11. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    oy vey. :)
     


  12. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Far from the golden fit, but thanks. Both of those look better (minus sleeves) than the 52 did on me out of the box. After a fairly inexpensive trip to the tailor ($100ish), I was very happy with the result. I think you are in a good position because I think both of those could work post alterations. If I had to chose one based on those pics, I would probably go with the 48.
     


  13. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Last edited: May 29, 2014


  14. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I second this. I guess you're the best judge atm though, since you're the only one who knows what they feel like when worn.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2014


  15. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    :tinfoil:
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2014


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