Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

    Messages:
    1,463
    Likes Received:
    477
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2012
    
    I agree with you that my chestnut shoes also ages better than my brown calf in term of color. Great looking shoes btw, both the Lowndes and Selbourne.
    The fact that the "thing" generating the funny feeling is depicted in the medallion might have something to do with it.. :)
     


  2. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    69,065
    Likes Received:
    31,232
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Colorado Rocky Mountains
    i like that tie, clags, and i think it would be great with your lighter than navy wrinkly suit. im sure you will find the right shirt, perhaps white or just the right blue. you have enough ties in your arsenal to kop one that you love even if its use will be limited.
     


  3. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,115
    Likes Received:
    21,605
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    It's all about proportion. For example, this is a 3.5 inch lapel on me:

    [​IMG]

    Also. PSA:

    DonRaphael will offer beautiful ties for sale, and when you message him, he'll decide to keep it for some silly reason along the lines of "I was going to get the same in a wider width, but Cappelli said they were out of the fabric." Can you believe the gumption!? Major. Tease. [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2014


  4. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

    Messages:
    2,280
    Likes Received:
    1,602
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2013
    Location:
    Chicago
    

    thats hilarious!
     


  5. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,169
    Likes Received:
    2,694
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2011
    Thanks for the helpful comments everyone. For what it's worth, you've convinced me to go with the wide lapel option this time.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2014


  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,115
    Likes Received:
    21,605
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    Quote:
    So I'll get 0520. Can you guys recommend a tobacco brownish for the same concept? Which one if so? Also a flannel F/W equivalent?

    Thanks!!
    From a PM, but I thought it could be used here. L2B is looking to pick up some fabric from Hardy Minnis. Alright, Thread, do your thang.
    https://shop.hfwltd.com/

    For your lightweight: Chelsea 102735
    [​IMG]

    I have the same in blue, waiting to be made up. Very lightweight (280g)


    For your F/W: Flannel 0341
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2014


  7. kulata

    kulata Senior member

    Messages:
    2,854
    Likes Received:
    4,811
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2008
    
    What's the width of the widest point of that tie?
     


  8. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

    Messages:
    2,280
    Likes Received:
    1,602
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2013
    Location:
    Chicago
    

    I really like that suit and the suggestions are pretty small ones. I think you'll get good wear out of that one and the next one will be nearly perfect for ya. Let us know if you do pull the trigger.
     


  9. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,115
    Likes Received:
    21,605
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    3.75. It's the widest I'll go. I generally prefer 3.25-3.5, but the nice thing about having as many ties as I have is that you can afford to have a few a bit outside your preferred range. In the case of that tie, I'm definitely glad it's wide. It expands far satisfyingly after the knot. However, it's certainly not something I could wear with anything with smaller lapels (I have many lapels which are 3 inches). I originally bought it to be worn with my double breasted jacket.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2014


  10. kulata

    kulata Senior member

    Messages:
    2,854
    Likes Received:
    4,811
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2008
    

    I like the tie and wide ties in general.

    I love what I have seen on liverano with his 4.5 inch plus ties wider than his lapels

    [​IMG]





    The most important question is, where to Kop? Need a red tie with visual interest with enough personality to match 4q lapels

    PS: Wide ties isn't for everybody. I just have a preference for bold styling
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2014


  11. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,115
    Likes Received:
    21,605
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    A little known company. Doubt you heard of it. Kind of picking up some press on the indie scene, though I hope they don't sell out. Brooks Brothers.
     


  12. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    69,065
    Likes Received:
    31,232
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Colorado Rocky Mountains
    i dont think i own any ties wider than than 3.5, maybe 3.6, but nothing 3.75.
     


  13. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,899
    Likes Received:
    4,746
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    I have a 4 inch cashmere tie that I wear with DB suits/jackets, but most are between 3.25 and 3.5. I prefer the 3.5 inch ties, but 3.25 is much easier to find at the moment.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2014


  14. selvedge8tweed

    selvedge8tweed Active Member

    Messages:
    33
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    May 17, 2014
    If I may, adding to the discussion

    1. No one has mentioned sleeve pitch yet, as you're getting bunching on the back arm (tricep).
    2. I think gorge height is fine. I like to draw a line from the point of the gorge so that it hits the tie knot. Why go higher?
    3. Don't mess with arm holes as that can be perilous. If it's comfortable, leave it. Is your movement restricted (lifting arms, etc.)?
    4. On the bunching, I thought you would want to shorten the back rise, as if you detach the waistband from the pants and then pull the back panel up. If you hike up the back of the pants, it might very well straighten out...you might get away with using suspenders then. Try it as a test.
    5. Waist is fine. You could drop another inch, but it's not suit supply/j crew high.
    6. Many things are quite good though for a first MTM. Shoulders look good, back is fairly clean. Quarters nice. I'm not sure what you mean by balance. Front/Back? That looks ok. Is it catching over your right hip in the back?
     


  15. kulata

    kulata Senior member

    Messages:
    2,854
    Likes Received:
    4,811
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2008
    

    - It's the uneven shoulders (Lower right shoulder) causing the bunching. If it's sleeve pitch you will notice pulling near the armpit from the front
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2014


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by