1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 11: Any Three (3) Customized Ties from Vanda Fine Clothing

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 11th auction of the year is for any three customized ties from Vanda Fine Clothing. Please bid often and generously here

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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Claghorn

    Claghorn Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    I don't know much about navy/blue blazers, but if I only had one or two (I happen to have a few more than this), I would probably get something either lighter or with more texture.

    The eBay store fabriccorneruk has done quite right by me (and a few others members) a few times. You can also order directly from Huddersfeld Fine Worsteds.
     


  2. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior Member

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    The fabric pictured is one of the only Huddersfield results for "fresco". I think I agree that it would be too dark. I will check out other sources, including eBay as you listed, clags. Thanks, guys.
     


  3. Claghorn

    Claghorn Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    Last edited: May 21, 2014


  4. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    That tie is not very nice. Get past it, better for you. x
     


  5. TM79

    TM79 Distinguished Member

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    That tie is great for the days you're in heavy combat but want to dress a little nicer.
     


  6. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Distinguished Member

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    Okay, my 7 year old obliged, and I have better pictures today. As I said previously, I'm looking to order my 2nd MTM suit from Kent Wang and value the opinions of the regular posters in this thread, so let me know if you see any issues I should modify for the next order. As of now, I'm thining about: (i) lengthening the sleeves 0.25 inches; (ii) talking with Kent about lowering the button point to conform more with my natural waist; (iii) shortening the back to address a slight balance issue from my posture; and (iv) raising the arm holes a small amount. I'm also thinking about trying the roped shoulder option because I've come to like how that looks with some of my other jackets. Let me know if anyone else has any additional thoughts.

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    Last edited: May 21, 2014


  7. Claghorn

    Claghorn Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    Wider lapels (it appears you've got a wide jaw and wide lapels are just more fun). Maybe raise the gorge a tad?
     


  8. Evolve

    Evolve Senior Member

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    +1 on wider lapels. But the KW MTM factory won't adjust the gorge. It's actually already fairly high on KW jackets, higher than it appears in those pics.
     


  9. kulata

    kulata Distinguished Member

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    Wider lapels, I don't think the gorge can be raised due to limitations of the made to measure process (got this from the same maker but not through kent wang though).

    In addition:

    1. Fix bunching at the back of the pants (lower the back rise? This is a tailor question)
    2. Leave the armhole, they look fine
    3. Account for a low right shoulder, this should fix the right sleeves piling/rumpling/whatever
    4. Buttoning stance is really fine.
    5. Is that the default lapel width or the 4 inch lapel?
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2014


  10. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Distinguished Member

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    Evolve is correct regarding the gorge. I've been hesitant to try the 4.25 inch wide lapel option based on some of the pictures I've seen where they looked out of proportion with the jacket. I suspect you are right, however, that my frame/jaw will make it look more proportional on me.

    Did the other items I mentioned make sense as far as modifications go?
     


  11. Evolve

    Evolve Senior Member

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    ^ I think those standard size lapels on your jacket look out of proportion (too small).
     


  12. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Distinguished Member

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    1. Pants bunching is due to a pelvic tilt condition. My understanding is it is a difficult fix for a tailor, but I should discuss it with my tailor.

    3. Interesting suggestion. I usually get collar gap on that same right side, which I now wonder if it is due in part to a low right shoulder.

    5. This is the default 3.5 inch lapel.
     


  13. jssdc

    jssdc Senior Member

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    With apologies for the crappy lighting, here's a pic of C&J dark brown and C&J chestnut side by side paired with navy trousers. I like the chestnut color better, and really like the way that this pair has aged - as DonRaphael indicated the he was planning on doing with his Westbournes, these have seen some black polish, but they're definitely more "noticable" when you wear them.

    [​IMG]
     


  14. jungleroller

    jungleroller Distinguished Member

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    One on the right is giving me a funny feeling below my waist. :slayer:
     


  15. Evolve

    Evolve Senior Member

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    I'm sure it's true that such a condition is difficult to alter after the fact, but the MTM service should be able to adjust for a "pelvic tilt condition". After all, it's exactly these types of "conditions" with posture and frame structure that MTM and bespoke exist in the first place--everyone's bodies are different.

    In regard to the KW trousers specifically, if you take a look through the photos in the KW thread, nearly everyone has the same wrinkling/bunching on the back of the pants to one degree or another. I think it's something weird about the pattern for KW's trousers, and for whatever reason, they can't or won't adjust for it, which is a shame. It's funny how nitpicky people on SF are about the slightest issue of jacket fit, but trouser issues are often overlooked. Your trousers aren't especially egregious, New Shoes. But if it were me I'd hesitate to order another suit from the maker unless assured the trousers could be cleaned up. And in fact, I am in this exact situation.
     


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